Lady Kenmore dryer heats but doesn't tumble

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  #1  
Old 11-21-14, 12:19 PM
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Lady Kenmore dryer heats but doesn't tumble

I have a Lady Kenmore dryer model 110.96094100 that heats up but doesn't tumble. It use to be if I gave it a Fonzi shot near the top of the dryer, it would start. Now, it will only run for so long before it stops tumbling again (anywhere from >1 minute to 25 minutes or so).

I've popped open the top of it and the tension belt around the drum seems pretty tight. I've opened the bottom access panel and noticed a slight ozone smell. Could it be the motor? How complicated a fix is it?
 
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Old 11-21-14, 12:55 PM
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As an addendum, I've noticed that intermittently when trying to start it, it sounds like there is a buzzing sound and it shuts off immediately. Could it be the motor or could it be something else?
 
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Old 11-21-14, 02:02 PM
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You need a motor, Not to hard to replace.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 09:39 AM
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I ordered the motor took apart the dryer to replace it, but I'm having a difficult time taking the old motor out. I checked the RepairClinic videos on YouTube, but their dryer has a different layout. For one, the lint screen is in the bottom of the door as opposed to the top of the dryer, which puts the blower to the left-front of the machine. I got the retaining clips off and detached the wires, but now I have nothing to grab on to in between the motor and the blower so I can't unscrew the motor.

On top of that, there's an opening through the blower where I can see the spindle but it's not like there's a philips or flathead divot in the end of it to secure it and keep it from turning. I've spent a few hours trying to figure this out so if anyone has some tips, I'd greatly appreciate it.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 09:51 AM
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The following video should be of help to you.

you tube/watch?v=tm1ZCiAnxto#t=137
 
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Old 12-10-14, 09:54 AM
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You have a fairly easy motor to replace. To get blower wheel off use a 1/2 inch extension with a ratchet or breaker bar in front. 7/8 inch open end wrench on back and loosen to the right. Opposite of normal tightening. If blower will not come off( lot of them frozen on shaft it will have to be cut off. I use a long screwdriver and large hammer. Start breaking in the center. will come out in pieces. Let us know if you need more help. Video shows how but I have never taken bracket out.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 09:58 AM
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Trying it now. The video helped tremendously. Thank you.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 10:19 AM
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I've changed many motors on dryers. I had one dryer where I had a hard time getting off the blower wheel. It was my own Whirlpool.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 10:55 AM
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It os such a common problem that I always include a blower wheel in price, Always can take it off if not needed but hard to tell customer it's going to cost more.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 04:17 PM
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Okay, so here goes. I got the blower wheel off and was able to remove the old motor (and had to use a set of channel locks to hold the spindle in place so I stripped the crap out of the end of it haha):

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Here is the new motor:

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Now why are the instructions telling me to remove completely the blue jumper wire from the new motor and attach the existing blue 4M wire in it's place. Isn't that going to leave the smaller terminal exposed? Does it matter?

The other thing is that there seems to be more connections here that are left vacant. Is that normal?
 
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Old 12-10-14, 04:22 PM
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And here is an overview of the bedlam if it provides any insight other than the fact that I have next-to-no idea of what I'm doing:

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Old 12-10-14, 06:26 PM
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Another snag I've run into...

The white 5M wire needs to be trimmed down from a 1/4" female to an 1/8" female connector. There is no black 6M wire, but the instructions say that if there isn't one, skip it. However, it makes no mention of the purple 3M wire that now also looks like it needs to be trimmed down from a 1/4" to an 1/8" female connector. There is a vacant spot for the 3M wire.

I just want to be sure that I'm not going to wire this thing wrong and start a fire. My luck has just been running that way.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 06:57 PM
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Many of the replacement motors today are considered universal as they'll replace more than one motor. Following the sheet that comes with the motor should get you wired.

Not all the terminals will have wires on them.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 07:41 PM
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So don't connect the 3M wire even though it was connected on the old motor and there's a #3 slot for it?
 
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Old 12-10-14, 08:06 PM
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Usually the wires go back onto the same terminals unless the instruction sheet describes differently.
 
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Old 12-10-14, 10:26 PM
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Okay so I replaced the motor, reattached all the wires in the order in which they're supposed to be attached, turned the power back on at the box (it's hard-wired and not a plug-in), and still having the same problem. The power goes to the panel, but the dryer won't spin. Now, it seems as though the heater element won't turn on either.

Is it possible that it wasn't the motor at all? Maybe it was the door switch? I am completely at a loss.

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Old 12-11-14, 02:33 AM
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Open door and work switch. Does it click? Is there a light in dryer and does it work? With switch should go on and off. Run side of switch could still be bad, but dryer would of not made groaning sound if bad. Sound like motor wired wrong.
 
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Old 12-11-14, 03:39 PM
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Both switches click. The white one seems to be the door switch as it is the one that will allow the cycle to continue if the motor were working. I'm not sure what the black switch does at it seems to be nothing.

It should also be noted that for awhile before it crapped out completely, we would sometimes have to give the door a little shove after closing it where those switches are after starting the dryer in order for it to begin the cycle.
 
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Old 12-11-14, 04:44 PM
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Reread your original post, where was the buzzing sound coming from? bottom near motor or someplace else. Usually buzzing or groan when you push start button is motor. Do you have a ohm meter to check switch
 
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Old 12-11-14, 05:23 PM
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Honestly, I don't even remember. I'm pretty sure it was down low.

I removed the door switch. Which connections am I testing? I have D1-5.

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Old 12-11-14, 05:27 PM
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The white switch is the power for the dryer. The button may be just for the light. The parts list shows both but they aren't labeled as to function.

Have you come across the wiring diagram that should be posted inside the dryer ?
I could give you more help if I can see that. If you can shoot a picture of it I'll give you the email address to send it to and I'll post it or you can post it at a pic hosting site like photobucket. The DIY forum doesn't support large pics.
 
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Old 12-11-14, 05:47 PM
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I think the connections are as follows..........
D1 - D4 are normally closed (opens when switch is pushed)
D1 - D3 makes contact when switch is pushed

D2 - D5 makes contact when switch is pushed

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  #23  
Old 12-11-14, 06:04 PM
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Here's the wiring diagram. Hopefully, you can see it well enough:

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And the ohm meter results are:

Red D1 to Black D4 = 0.30 with the button pushed or not
Red D1 to Black D3 = 0.30 with the button pushed or not
Red D2 to Black D5 = 0.16 with button not pushed, 0.00 with button pushed
 
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Old 12-11-14, 06:17 PM
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The switch is as I described it.

Thanks for the picture. If you click on pic it will open at photobucket.

 

Last edited by PJmax; 12-11-14 at 07:26 PM. Reason: added pic link
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Old 12-11-14, 07:33 PM
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It would appear that you are measuring a short between the switching contacts.
Are you using a digital meter ? You can't touch the leads when measuring.


To test the dryer without the switch you should be able to connect D1 to D3. The other wires need to be insulated so as not to touch the frame.
 
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Old 12-12-14, 02:39 AM
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In many years of working on dryers have never seen 2 door switches, Sometimes on back of switch will be diagram to connections. PJ probably has it right but have seen them setup different. When you push button does it feel sticky? Most times with that switch button sticks in.
Do you have a old Lady Kenmore with a florescent bulb and a light in drum? I have only seen that one once about 10 years ago. That is why the second switch. Trying to read diagram not having to much luck. Your dryer has things I have never seen on dryers before. I can see a lint switch check to see if closed, if open its bad. All the things in that box lower right all should show closed. Thermistor should show a ohm reading but I don't have a spec for it. Can't read the rest. After today will be on road for a while.
 

Last edited by pugsl; 12-12-14 at 03:01 AM.
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Old 12-12-14, 07:39 AM
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If you click on the pic I posted.... it will take you to photobucket. You can either download it as a large diagram or place your cursor in the upper right corner of the diagram and function buttons will appear. Zoom or + is one selection.

I only see one two section door switch in the schematic. Yes it does have a fluorescent panel lamp. I've never seen two buttons either.
 
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Old 12-12-14, 09:44 AM
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Thanks PJMax can read it now. Don't think it will help much, D1 to D3 or D4 depending on button push should have continuity. (closed ), More switches than any dryer I have ever worked on.
KENMORE Electric Dryer Console panel Parts | Model 11096094100 | SearsPartsDirect
Part 38 is a relay put this up so I knew where the parts are. I personally have never worked on this dryer, It has switches and control boards I have never seen. Just saw there is a thremo fuse check that for continuity first.
KENMORE Electric Dryer Parts | Model 11096094100 | SearsPartsDirect
Bulkhead parts 59, If the door switch and thermo fuse check out you will have to follow wiring diagram from the D3 side of door switch first.
 
  #29  
Old 12-13-14, 02:44 PM
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I'm not sure what the black switch does at it seems to be nothing.
Should be another one of those black switch's on the right corner of the door opening. Press both switch's at the same time should cause the motor to start briefly which is supposed to help throw the clothes to the front.
 
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Old 12-31-14, 12:00 PM
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After a long vacation and like a bad penny, I'm popping up again....

The damn dryer still won't work. I'm thinking somehow I wired it wrong.

I've taken pictures of everything I've had to touch or move and, hopefully, someone can see the error of my ways:

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And here are the instructions for replacing the motor:

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If anyone can provide some insight, it would be most appreciated. I am bound and determined to understand this.

Happy New Year everyone!
 
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Old 01-03-15, 11:52 AM
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Alright I'm taking one last stab. I'm changing the door switch but of course there's a snag. The new part has three leads and the old one has five.

Here's the new part:

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The new labeled leads are (on the left) D2 (straight) and D (angled) and D1 on the right.

And here's the old one:

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How would these connect now? Can I leave two open wires? I'm assuming D1 and D2 connect, respectively, but what connects to the D terminal?
 

Last edited by Franken30; 01-03-15 at 12:11 PM.
  #32  
Old 01-03-15, 02:42 PM
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Final update:

After trying just about every conceivable issue, I gave in and called a service tech in. The verdict?

The circuit board...which they haven't made in at least five years.

So all the time and all the aggravation is resulting in a new dryer.

Soooooo...Speed Queen or Whirlpool Commercial? Anyone have any thoughts?
 
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Old 01-03-15, 07:26 PM
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Depends on how much you want to spend. Dryer all work about the same, Some have more features.
 
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