Why Does My GE Washing Machine Lid Switch Keep Failing ?

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  #1  
Old 12-08-14, 05:05 PM
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Why Does My GE Washing Machine Lid Switch Keep Failing ?

Please help! Here are all the facts I can report so you guys, hopefully, can help figure out how to help me:
1) my washing machine turns on and the lights come on.
2) it will not fill with water or begin doing anything when I press start, the lights just blink.
3) I used a multimeter to check the connections of the inlet valves and the pump and many other things and the connections were fine.
4) since the lid wasn't triggering anything when closed, I thought it may be the lid switch. Since it's a GE I had to cut the wires of the lid switch to test it. The meter indicated that no current was moving through the lid switch wires, so I ordered a new lid switch.
5) when I received the new lid switch, I checked the current before installing it and the new switch was working!
6) but then, the washer still didn't work after installing the new switch.
7) then, I rechecked the new lid switch and it had died!!
8) so, it seems that another electrical problem is killing my lid switches.
So my questions are: what could be killing my lid switches? How can I find out what the problem is? What can I do to try to fix this? Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 12-08-14, 05:37 PM
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Welcome to the forums. The model of your washing machine would be helpful. My first guess would be that the switch is fine but whatever part is supposed to contact the switch when the door is closed - is not doing it's job. Or maybe a bent switch bracket.
 
  #3  
Old 12-08-14, 06:22 PM
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The washer model is d-glwn5050mws.
Are you saying that the magnet piece that's opposite of the lid switch may be the cause of the problem?
 
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Old 12-08-14, 09:49 PM
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Your model number is GLWN5050M0WS or GLWN5050M1WS.

That is a magnetic switch and the magnet is in the lid. The magnet doesn't usually go bad. I'm trying to find the tech sheet/schematic to see if that switch goes to a relay or right to the control board. There should be a tech sheet inside your washer..... have you found it yet ?
 
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Old 12-09-14, 03:12 AM
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Should be a tech sheet in console? Try to reset control (timer) Unplug washer for 30 or more seconds. plug in, open and close lid 6 times within 30 seconds.. Try washer. On tech sheet should tell you about light flashes in motor. Follow sheet and count flashes. Sounds like a timer but without testing could be anything. Have worked on many of your type washer and have not seen your problem.
 

Last edited by pugsl; 12-09-14 at 03:34 AM.
  #6  
Old 12-09-14, 06:27 AM
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Lid switch is inline with L1 power feed to the motor/inverter. Sounds like you have a faulty motor/inverter. This washer is electronically controlled and doesn't have a mechanical timer.
 
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Old 12-09-14, 07:48 AM
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Lid switch is inline with L1 power feed to the motor/inverter.
I wasn't familiar with that setup but I had a thought they did that. That's a fairly heavy load on a magnetic switch that is usually rated for less than 3A of current handling.
 
  #8  
Old 12-09-14, 12:04 PM
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All GE Hydrowave models work this way but there are two line inputs to the motor/inverter. The one through the lid switch is just a signal to let the processor know if the lid is closed or not. The other line input is for the inverter. This washer has a 3 phase pulse width modulated motor fed from the inverter but I don't know of any washer with the typical single phase induction motor where full motor current is not through the lid switch. The same magnetically operated lid switch was used on previous GE models with single phase induction motors where full motor current is through that switch.
 
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Old 12-09-14, 12:17 PM
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GE had a lot of problems with the shaft mode (transmission) When they first came out, On some models you also had to change motor with shaft mode. Couple of years ago was changing them one a week.
 
  #10  
Old 12-09-14, 04:57 PM
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What about the fact that there is no current flowing through my new lid switch? Shouldn't there be a current? The new lid switch has an orange wire and a yellow wire with a red stripe. When I touch one stick from the multimeter to the yellow/red wire and the other stick to the orange wire, shouldn't the meter needle move? (It's set to ohms). Do I need to buy another new lid switch?
 
  #11  
Old 12-09-14, 05:06 PM
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The switch is normally open. You must place the magnet over it for it to close and give a continuity reading.
 
  #12  
Old 12-10-14, 04:09 PM
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Ok, the motor board is blinking 10 times, which, according to the tech sheet, I'm supposed to check the backsplash control. So what is that and how do I do that?
 
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Old 12-10-14, 06:31 PM
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Not sure never ran into that code, since I retired don't have access to tech manuals. Maybe fairbanks knows.
 
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Old 12-13-14, 09:51 AM
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Ok, it seems the lid switch is not the problem. So what do I do? The washer will not begin the filling process. The currents are connecting fine from the lid switch and from the valves, etc. But, the lights just come on and stay lit, yet it will not begin to fill. Any suggestions?
 
  #15  
Old 12-13-14, 10:30 AM
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10 flash error code is a communication error between the motor/inverter and the control board inside the user console. Check voltages at control board 3 terminal connector. You should read a steady 12.8vdc between red and blue. You should see a pulsing dc voltage between yellow and blue. If not good, replace the control board, if good check wiring between control board and motor/inverter. If ok, replace motor/inverter.
 
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Old 12-21-14, 11:12 AM
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I'm definitely not very informed about this sort of thing like you guys are, haha. Please tell me what you mean by checking the red, blue, and yellow voltages. I'm uploading a picture to make sure I understand. Am I supposed to touch the meter needles to the tiny metal panels on the wire clip? The ones right next to each other? And, what do I set the meter to? I'm not sure what vdc means. This is all brand new to me but I need to learn it because. I just cannot afford to spend a lot of money.Name:  image.jpg
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  #17  
Old 12-21-14, 11:42 AM
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The left side of the meter is DC..... the right side is AC. You set the range to just over what you expect to measure. If you don't know what voltage to expect you start at the highest value and work down.

In this case set meter to 50v DC. Look for the scale on the meter that matches that setting. You'll be using the center set of numbers.
Red probe to red wire..... black probe to blue wire.

You may have to turn the meter to a lower setting for this test. You can also try a low AC scale to read voltage.
Red probe to yellow....black wire to blue wire.

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This meter is showing 120 volts AC.
Never apply power to meter with it in the green settings.
 
  #18  
Old 12-21-14, 04:07 PM
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Thank you so much for your help. Am I supposed to have the washer plugged in for this? I've had it unplugged. And, am I supposed to have the red, blue, and yellow wire pack plugged into the control board for this test? I'm not getting the needle to budge when I test (while the washer is unplugged) on vdc. But the needle jumps when I set the meter to ohms. It moves while on ohms while the red/blue/yellow pack is plugged and when it's unplugged. I haven't tested anything with the washer plugged in. I assumed that's a no no. So, any follow up advice? Again, I really do appreciate this help!
 
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Old 12-21-14, 04:43 PM
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Glad to help. The washer needs to be powered to read voltage. I would measure with the three pin plug plugged in and not plugged in. Make two sets of measurements.
 
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Old 12-21-14, 05:39 PM
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Ok, I just tested like you said with everything plugged in on vdc and the needle moved so that it was about where the black 50 is (a little past it), the one with the black 10 under it. Both of the tests you told me to do (yellow and blue; red and blue) moved the needle to the same spot. So, what does that mean? Is the control board ok?
 
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Old 12-21-14, 05:52 PM
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Also, I unplugged the other end of the yellow/red/blue wire pack--the end that connects into the motor. Then, I checked the voltage on that end and the needle moved to that same spot for both measurements. I couldn't measure it with the pack plugged in because no metal pieces were exposed and in reach. I did the measurements also with the washer plugged in and the meter set to vdc.
 
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Old 12-21-14, 07:31 PM
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So if you read the correct scale you would see roughly 12vdc on the scale. It would appear that the voltage on the red and blue wires is correct. I'm not sure if the yellow varies in voltage based on speed or is a data line.

It would be great to get a copy of the tech sheet you are working off of. I don't have one for that unit. If you'd like to take a nice big well lit picture and either host or send it to me would be most helpful. I can forward you my document email address.
 
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Old 12-22-14, 04:45 AM
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Ok, I took several pictures so you can see everything. My wife and I are extremely grateful that you're willing to help us with this! (And so is our neighbor, because we keep doing laundry at her house).


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Old 12-22-14, 05:10 AM
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Old 12-22-14, 05:18 AM
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I found this online. This seems to be the same tech sheet:http://applianceservice.mabe.ca/manuals/31-16628-3.pdf
 
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Old 12-22-14, 08:44 PM
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Thanks for the sheets. I'm on the fence here. I'm not familiar enough with this machine to tell you what to replace but here are my thoughts. You can't get machine to fill with water. The lights come on but the fill is not activated. That could be from two reasons.... the motor/invertor is defective and telling the board to not fill the machine or the machine has a control board (backsplash control) problem. Have you tried putting the machine into field service mode as listed on the tech sheet ?
 
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Old 12-23-14, 05:17 AM
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Have you check for 129 volts to water valves (hot and cold on diagram) No volts there see if 120 at #1(all checks can be made at control board) Call GE with model and serial # to find out if motor needs to be replaced with shaft mode, They have a list of the one's that need replacement. Not sure if shaft mode is problem yet but would be good to know if needed.
 
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