Kenmore 80 series washer - spin cycle slow start

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Old 12-22-14, 01:46 PM
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Kenmore 80 series washer - spin cycle slow start

Hello, I have a Kenmore 80 series front load washer that's a few years old. Model is 110.24872300. When it's time for the spin cycle to start it just sits there, we usually have to lift the lid and push it along to get it going, and then it finishes up fine. I am somewhat handy, but don't know anything about washing machines. Any idea what it could be and a fix? I've googled this a couple of times but is getting confusing. Could it be a belt, etc...? Thank you!
 
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Old 12-22-14, 04:31 PM
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Look inside cabinet about 6 inches from floor you you may see a streak of oil. If there you need a gearcase top seal, clutch and drive coupler. lean washer back against wall to look under it.
 
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Old 01-04-15, 01:11 PM
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Thanks for the info. First this is a top load Washer not a front as I misstated below. I did finally have a chance to look under the washer and about 6 inches from the floor on the inside of the cabinet there is a horizontal line of grease running along both sides and some in the back. Does this confirm the issue you describe below? What is the best fix or is it cheaper in the long run to get another washer? My first thoughts were that it just needed a new belt-is the grease causing the belt to slip?
Thanks again.
Kevin
 
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Old 01-04-15, 03:28 PM
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Google Whirlpool gearcase rebuild, Plenty of videos of how to do it. Parts usually less than 40$. Not a hard job.
 
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Old 01-04-15, 03:45 PM
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Appliance Depot has a rebuild kit:
Whirlpool Washer Transmission Rebuild Kit 388253
Washer Transmission Rebuild Kit 388253

Is this what I'd need and does it contain all the needed parts?

Thanks- I really appreciate the help!
 
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Old 01-04-15, 05:28 PM
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That kit has much more than you need unless you are having more problems than a oil leak. Gearcase cover seal is what you need, with a clutch and drive coupler. Clutch because oil is in it and that is what is slipping, Drive coupler is just good maintenance, I always replaced drive coupler any time I have to remove motor.
 
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Old 01-04-15, 05:38 PM
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Ok- if it's just a matter of getting these parts, removing the cabinet and replacing/cleaning up the parts then I'll give it a go. If there's anything else I need to know beforehand please let me know. Thanks for your help!!
 
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Old 01-05-15, 02:42 AM
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If you have seen video usually they show taking cabinet off, I take the agitator and nut off the top first than lean washer back against wall and work under it. I can replace a gearcase in about 30 minutes but I have done a couple of hundred of them. We don't rebuild takes to long in field to do it but saves you lots of money.
 
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Old 01-05-15, 05:49 AM
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Thanks - should I worry about replacing any oil? I'm planning on taking this out to my garage and taking the cabinet off so I can get to everything easy. Have no idea what I'm doing so planning on longer than 30 mins
 
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Old 01-05-15, 08:37 AM
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Trying to confirm if these are the parts I need? The diagram I am working off of is at this link:
KENMORE Automatic Washer Brake/clutch/gearcase/mot ... Parts | Model 11024872300 | SearsPartsDirect

Gearcase cover seal:
Washer Gearcase Cover Seal 3349985

Coupler:
Whirlpool Washer Drive Coupling 285753A

Clutch:
Washer 3 Pad Clutch 285785

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-05-15, 04:41 PM
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Parts look good to me, Sorry about slow return am on road and only get on when stopped.
 
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Old 01-05-15, 05:14 PM
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Hey no problem I cant tell you how much I appreciate the help especially with a wife that is really pushing me to fix this vs buy a new one

One question is this the small seal as described in the link below? Have also seen where the actual gear case is opened up and silicone/adhesive is applied like a header gasket on an engine. This looks like a larger mess vs not opening the gearcase. Thanks again!

http://youtu.be/mz1aDPYey8o
 
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Old 01-05-15, 06:48 PM
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No problem doing that seal that way but that is not the seal that is causing your problem. The seal that is the trouble is the top seal and I pretty sure you have to split the case to change it. I personally don't rebuild them, Before I retired I would just replace the whole gearcase, Gearcase 100 to 150$ + against the cost of seal.
 
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Old 01-06-15, 03:15 AM
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Ok so the other video I saw was where the gearcase was opened and all the gears were exposed and the seal was between the the case and the actual cover - this is what I need to do or do the gears need to be removed as well?
I did see where the gearcase is for sale for $150. To confirm, based on your experience you don't think the problem is with the seal described in the video I pasted above? Thanks again for your help!
 
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Old 01-06-15, 03:40 AM
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Gearcase cover seal is what you need. Seal around output shaft. Where you showed parts kit there was a cover seal on that page. The seal on video seldom leaks. If there is any sign of leak replace it.
 
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Old 01-07-15, 04:36 AM
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Ok I think I've got which part needs replacing- I see it in another parts diagram I found. If I do open up the gearcase to replace this seal is there a recommendation for resealing the case to the gearbox (gasket or glue?). Looks like some videos just put it back on and others put something on it.
Also at the end of the day based on potential wear on other parts of the gearcase, seals, etc would it be a good idea to just go ahead and replace the entire gearcase vs just the seal? Thanks again.
 
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Old 01-07-15, 03:47 PM
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Your call on replacing gearcase, usually if bad will not work at all. Seal is most common part to go bad.
 
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