Frigidaire oven won't bake or broil

Frigidaire PLEFZ398GCB - 6 years old

Everything was working fine and now both heating element won't work. The surface top and warming drawer work as they should.

I do have continuity for both elements. I checked power at the board and there is 120v going to each element and 120v coming out of both elements as soon as I choose bake or broil yet they are barely heating.

Should I have 240v there? On the display it shows it changing from top to bottom element, but nothing changes with the voltage.

I noticed that the board energizes both elements all the time even if I choose just broil which I would think would only energize the top element. I have 3 wire plug with 120 on each leg and 240v across.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Don

 

Welcome to the forums.

Let me start by saying be careful. One half of the heating elements is connect to always live which means if the element is good you'll get voltage on both ends.

Have you confirmed 240vac anywhere inside the unit ?
For the element to work properly you need to measure 240v across the element.

Ok.... I see the stovetop elements are all working as normal.

 

Here is a link for the control wiring for your range. There is an over control board where 240vac enters and is controlled to the two elements. You will probably have to get to and check this board for burned solder connections.

Parts for Frigidaire PLEFZ398ECA: Wiring Schematic Parts - Appliance Parts Pros

 

Thanks for the thoughts. My schematic is a little different, but I seem to be closer.

I didn't know one side is always hot, so against my better judgement I jumped L2 as when I tested with the wires disconnected the bake and broil connections would alternate 120v when in bake mode like they should. I would get 240v if I tested L2 (in) with P7 (broil) and P9 (bake), but not when I checked from L2 (out).

So I jumped L2 (in) and L2 (out) and the oven functioned correctly. I did confirm alternating 240v across P7 and P9.

Now, does this confirm I need to replace the board or could something else be telling L2 (out) not to get hot? Relay, etc...

Don

 

If you can get to the back of the board..... you may visually see a problem.... like a burned solder connection.

 

I was in the process of doing that as you replied.

I was looking at the back and didn't see anything, but after locating the L2 out solder I followed it up and there is a hairline circle at the connection above it. I will resolder that and I am pretty confident that will fix the problem.

I will report back, but hopefully this is it.

 

Soldered and working.

Thanks for all your help. If you hadn't mentioned to me that one side is always hot I wouldn't have ever thought of jumping L2. I think I may have still seen the bad solder, but it wasn't obvious. Since I new what connection wasn't getting power it was easy to find.

Don