Ilve oven electrical issues

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Old 06-21-15, 12:27 AM
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Ilve oven electrical issues

Members location is Australia.

My Ilve electric oven has been tripping its circuit breaker. It is on its own independent circuit and when the breaker is reset the power remains on for a couple of minutes, before retripping. This occurs even when the oven is switched off.

I've removed the back cover and noticed a couple of issues. A single active wire travels from the power input to a thermal switch and then I think to the control nob. The plastic connector on the input of the thermal switch is cracked and the connector appears burnt (picture: http://i.imgur.com/sb6zwlR.jpg ). It doesn't appear to be touching the oven frame.

The wiring to the top element is also charred, with the insulation burnt away and copper exposed (picture: http://i.imgur.com/77sr1EY.jpg )

I disconnected the active wire going to the thermal switch and the circuit no longer trips, but when I switch the oven on via the control knob I can see electrical smoke coming from around the element wires.

Any advice about what might be going on would be much appreciated. I guess there are two separate issues. The oven is about ten years old.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 06-21-15 at 08:31 AM. Reason: Add correct location.
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Old 06-21-15, 05:02 AM
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Post model# of stove and we can help better. Wires burnt like yours are caused by loose connections. Will at least need to replace wire ends, Oven guys will be in later.
 
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Old 06-21-15, 06:34 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I'm not able to find the model number of the stove, I think the label must have come off, but I'll have another look in the morning. It was decent when we bought it, this looks very similar to this: Ilve 90cm Stainless Steel Freestanding Electric Oven/Stove (PW90IMP) Auction | GraysOnline Australia
 
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Old 06-21-15, 07:06 AM
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Welcome to the forums. 2024301, please adjust your profile to indicate your real location. This is primarily a North American forum. The stoves In Canada and USA mostly use 120/240v. Yours use straight 220v. There may be other differences. Not sure anyone one will be familiar with your stove but they may be able to give some general help.
 
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Old 06-21-15, 07:34 AM
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I wasn't aware that I could select 'non US'. I have now done this
 
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Old 06-21-15, 08:31 AM
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Thank you. Hopefully some one can help you with your problem. Hang in there.
 
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Old 06-21-15, 08:50 AM
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Is this just an oven..... no burners ?

With our appliances here in the States.... the oven and burner controls only switch one half of the (240v) circuit. This means that even if you had all the controls turned off..... the element is still connected to one hot leg of power.

Where you are located your 230v power is referenced to neutral or ground. That means when your stove/oven controls are ALL turned off...... nothing is powered and nothing should happen.

Your burned wires look to be the problem of loose connections. Unless something touches the metal cabinet it should not short. Did you try removing one wire at a time from the safety stat ? One wire comes in from the house and the other wire goes to the control.

A few more pictures would be a help. One wide shot would be good too.
 
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Old 06-24-15, 09:28 AM
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Sorry I didn't reply earlier, but I have just seen the reply. It does have a gas cooktop also, so not just an oven.

OK I see. I couldn't see anywhere where the connectors were shorting. The back cover of the oven is metal, but I don't think it was making contact.

Only the active wire goes through the safety stat. I removed the wire and the oven no longer trips the RCD / GFCI in standby, however as I mentioned, when it is switched on and there is power to the element there appears to be smoke coming from the element connectors.

I have removed the element from the oven and I'll try and test it with a multimeter to see if it has an issue.

I guess the first step would be to replace that safety stat? The inlet connector to the safety stat appeared burnt, but possibly this was just discolouration.

Below is a wider picture of the back electrics, sorry it doesn't show much, but it was a little difficult to get the photo. Within the circle are the element connections. The inside has seen better days!

http://i.imgur.com/FnEslYE.jpg

Let me know if you've got an more ideas
 
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Old 06-25-15, 08:36 PM
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You may have an element that is shorting to ground internally.

You have to move thru the wiring systematically to find the problem.

You need to clarify for me....
If the controls are ALL off..... the breaker does NOT trip....... correct ?
You turn on the element, it smokes and in a few minutes the breaker trips... correct ?

If both are correct then the smoking element needs to be replaced.
 
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Old 06-26-15, 12:00 AM
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I appreciate this is not an easy thing to diagnose without being able to see exactly what is going on. I have removed the element (twin element) from the stove and when I get home will try and test it with a multimeter.

With the controls off and if the active wire going to the safety stat is disconnected, the breaker does not trip. If the safety stat is left connected the breaker trips after a few minutes, even with the controls off.

If the safety stat is left disconnected and the controls are turned on, smoke is generated from the element terminals. Even when smoking the breaker does not trip.

I guess the most obvious issue is the charred and exposed wiring terminals going to the element. They don't look like they're shorting on anything, but the copper wire is exposed. And I guess possibly an issue with whatever is supplied by that safety switch, because as mentioned above the GFCI only trips if that is connected.

It doesn't appear that the element power goes though the SS, as the elements appear to have power with the safety stat disconnected.

Thanks for your help with this.

I'll try testing the element tonight and post the results.
 
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