Amana refrigerator not cooling - bottom fan is running

Hi,

Amana ARB2217CB

Sounds like the compressor is not running but fan for bottom freezer seems to be fine. The fan does not seem to run in the refrigerator portion. Is there two separate fans? The outlet line of the compressor is cold and the freezer seems fine but no cooling in the refrigerator portion. Can the motor for the compressor be replaced or does the complete unit have to be replaced. The fridge is about 12 years old and all seems ok other than the fridge part.


Cannot seem to find any manuals online can some one point me in the right direction.

Its sad to know that the whole fridge gets thrown out over a compressor issue.

Any other things i can check? I cleaned the evaporator from fuzz etc..turned up the tstat as high as you can.

Thanks

 

I corrected the formatting of your model number but it's still incomplete. You need to check what follows what you have posted. Look for the ID plate in the fridge side.

Your unit uses a regular mechanical thermostat but can use a defrost timer or defrost control board. I can't tell for sure without the complete model number.

When the thermostat calls for cooling.... the fan inside the fridge (evaporator fan), the fan under the fridge (condensor fan) and the compressor should all run at the same time.
When you turn the stat down (colder).... what do you hear running ?

 

Hi,

Defrosted over night the evaporator was a block of ice. Briefly fired it back up and the compressor comes and both the evaporator and condensir fan run too. Looks like the auto defrost timer(looks like a little switch not a board and is located above the evaporator)which is wired to the heat loop. The other part number I found is the MFG NO PARB2217CBO. Model NO is ARB2217CB and S/N 10594571AG.

Cannot find a manual as it appears it cannot be easily replaced. Is there a way to test it? Maybe it still works.

Thanks for your help

Troy

 

Hi again,

I disconnected the defrost tstat and put my meter acrossed it measured 20 meg ohms then placed ice and icepacks around it and it went up to 32 meg ohms and went to OL. It does not appear to close the contact to allow power through.

The defrost heater coil assembly ohmed out at 31.3 ohms which seems good to me.

The one side of the defrost tsat runs continuous to the main distribution plug where another 6 or so wores are can the wire be pushed out of the block or would you cut it and splice it when putting in the new one? The other side is a single connector and assume the new tsat would come with it.

Do you think thats my problem? Would this unit also have adefroter board? Would it be behind the freezer temperature adjustment and light unit?

Thanks again

Troy

 

That additional mfg. made a slight difference however the info I'm finding still lists timer or an adaptive control board.

In the link below.... pictorial # 12 is the timer and I believe that's what your fridge uses to control defrosting.
Maytag Refrigerator ARB2217CB Control Parts List

In this link... part 29 is the thermostat. It's actual Whirlpool OEM part number is #12001937. You can use that OEM part number to search and buy that part at many retail locations.... either online or at your local appliance parts retailer.
Maytag Refrigerator ARB2217CB Evaporator Parts List

That part in the freezer is a defrost thermostat. It cycles the defrost element so that it doesn't overheat the fine plastic interior of the freezer. That thermostat should normally be open and close from anywhere from 50° to freezing. Packing it in ice should cause it to close and show a short. They are a popular failure item. You cut the old one out and either use wirenuts or crimps to rejoin the wires. The thermostat kit comes with connectors.

In the links above..... you'll see exploded diagrams on the left. #11 is the wiring diagram.

 

Thats awesome! thanks so much Pete. Should be good to go.

Take care

Troy