Could broken outlet box cause dryer to not heat?

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  #1  
Old 12-18-15, 08:56 PM
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Could broken outlet box cause dryer to not heat?

Good Day, my whirlpool duet dryer spins but has suddenly stopped drying. I tested breakers and was on my way to pulling of panel to check thermalcouple, thermostat and fuse. Before that i pulled dryer oout and was about to check wall outlet then the box just fell off. I hope the pictures are clear and explain better. Could this be the reason the dryer isnt heating or unlikely? Im reading 243 and im not brave enough to plug in with box missing. I was just checking before calling an electrician.

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Old 12-18-15, 09:42 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

The receptacle contacts look ok. Not burned. You are missing a connector where the cable connects to the receptacle.

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Is the cover burned ? It looks like the slots are too large.
 
  #3  
Old 12-18-15, 10:04 PM
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Im reading 243 and im not brave enough to plug in with box missing
Do not plug the dryer in!

When you pulled out the dryer, the receptacle cover came off. It's missing the center screw.

Turn off power
Separate plug from cover
Reinstall the cover with the center screw. I'm not sure of the size, I believe 6-32 that will need to be cut to length.
 
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Old 12-19-15, 04:11 AM
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When you unplugged dryer was the connection tight? Not worried about cover at this point. Before plugging in be sure to replace cover. Did not post model # of dryer or could direct you to most common problem with your dryer. 240 at outlet most likely dryer problem. Be sure to clean vent to outside as most dryer problems start there.
 
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Old 12-19-15, 07:53 AM
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Yup, 240 volts at the receptacle indicates your dryers heating element may have failed. However, it could also be a safety someplace as well. There are many videos out there to trouble shoot a dryer. all you need is a screw driver and a meter.
 
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Old 12-19-15, 04:22 PM
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Cool

Thanks for the responses, i was actually coming back to post another finding when i saw all these responses. I dont know why i didnt get instant notifications. Anyways, thanks for all the advice, im typing on my phone so i cant quote everyone but in short.... the duct has small cut pictured below, could that small a hole cause the dryer to not heat? I mean , it ran for an hour and wasn't even warm, that outside temp was about 56.

When i pulled dryer out from the wall the box was wobbling and fell down as the socket was removed.

Im missing a connector? Could that be the problem, im assuming the box wouldn't cause the dryer to not heat based on answers? I'll go check outside vents in morning. You made me think the plate outside fell off a month ago, i glued it back on....hope that didn't damage anything. When I turned dryer on it sounded like a bunch of sand going through. ....i dont know if thats regular.
 
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Old 12-19-15, 05:13 PM
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The hole in the duct, loose cover, or the missing connector will have nothing to do with your dryer not heating. However, you should consider fixing both at some point.

Remove the cover on the dryer, plug in the cord and CAREFULLY check if you have 240 volts at the dryer. If you do, then start trouble shooting the heating element of the dryer.

This might be helpful: http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHe...roubleshooting
 
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Old 12-19-15, 06:12 PM
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GEW9200LW0 Put model # so better for us to access.
Your model most common causes
Heater element
High limit thermostat (one farthest back on heater) All accessed through lower panel.
After that will have to go to more diagnostic.
Both thermostats and heater need to checked with a meter and should show continuity. Any opens are bad.
 
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Old 12-21-15, 10:10 AM
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Element was reading around 10.5
Thermostat 1 and 2 reading around 0.4 and 0.5. Does this sound right, here are some pics, since taken i have got most of the dust/lint out with vacuum. That wouldn't be the problem would it?

I saw a test online done while dryer was running, every test ive done has been with it unplugged have i skipped something?

The only things i can think of. A new washer was delivered and installed 7 days ago. The dryer got banged a little but was used 4 times after that. An outlet in the den hadnt worked in years, i switched it out, turned off all power. ..1 of the dryers breakers gave me trying to get out that middle position, i finally got it on and the test with multimeter reads same as others. Sorry for my descriptions, i know very litte about electrical things. thanks for all the patience and help.
 
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Old 12-21-15, 10:32 AM
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plug in the cord and CAREFULLY check if you have 240 volts at the dryer
Did you understand Tolyn's instructions above? With dryer plugged in, check the terminal block where cord is connected to dryer. You should read ~240 volts between the two outer terminals.
You should read ~120 volts between either outer terminal and center terminal, check both.

Also look at the picture in post #2, the black wire clamp looks to have come out of it's slot, Shut off power and redo the black connection.
 
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Old 12-21-15, 01:01 PM
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Recheck for 240 at back of dryer, If there could be a bad control board or motor centrifugal switch. Should be a tech sheet in lower panel or taped to side . Will have how to get into diagnostic. not be to much help but will have a wiring diagram. Your reading on components look about right. I always just check for continuity. Let us know about volt readings.
 
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Old 12-21-15, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for all the help, sorry for not quoting im replying from my phone. I think im about to hang it up. I spent the entire day fiddling with it and i had so much other stuff to do. My electrician is out of to
n and everyone in the phonebook is talking enormous charges because its Christmas week, many workers on vacation and their backed up for a week.....


Anyhow, the back of dryer read 243 122 243
The fuse and everything was good for continuity except thermistor. I was about to order 1. While watching how to install vid , someone has same issue and was directed to change multimeter to Ohms for thermistor. ...now it showed continuity. .

I noticed the coil had larger holes than i thought, i replaced it and the same problem exist.

Pugsl, I dont see a clamp thats came out, maybe im overlooking but everything looks normal to me in post 2. Also the box doesnt have a center screw slot.

Other observations when i turned off all the breakers that same dryer breaker tripped to the middle fot the 3rd time, a little fiddling and i got it to the on position, its reading the same on meter. I do see a 15amp breaker with no wire. Im sure it wouldn't be fo dryer but i never noticed we had a vacant breaker.....

After 30 minutes of spinning my shorts are still wet and cold. The dryer has no signs of heat, not even warm. Thanks
 

Last edited by howard04; 12-21-15 at 01:35 PM. Reason: thanks
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Old 12-22-15, 05:11 AM
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Did you find the wiring diagram? Unplug dryer first At heater take one of the wires off. Do not ground it. Plug dryer in and you should read 120 at the wire and the lug where it was unplugged.You will need wiring diagram to see which wire goes to centrifugal switch. I think solid red wire but retired and have not looked at one in a couple of years. Relay on control take top off board will be on left side and relay is in back of board. if good will read 0 volts across both terminals. Relay has heavy wire to it. Very unusual for either board or motor switch to go bad. Use continuity checker and check from both terminals on rear thermostat (hi limit) To both terminals on heater. Should be a complete circuit. Ohm on thermistor is right.
Hard to check board and centrifugal switch.
If wires on box look good and you are getting 140 to back of dryer don't worry about it. Also should get 120 from each outside lug to center lug.
 
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Old 12-22-15, 10:01 AM
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Pugsl,

A friend recommended repair man, he cant come tim next week but he did help me over the phone. He thinks loose plug in the back but i noticed when we got off phone i had mm set 200, once moved to 600 i got 245 reading. I took off dryer cord and top because right to ground read 124 left to ground nothing. Left to ground and keft to right brought no continuity. I get on plug and at end of red wire plugged to main board. I just don't get any reading on little clamp/hand thing that gets screwed in on th back. Its the right side red wireName:  20151222_111711_001.jpg
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Old 12-22-15, 10:06 AM
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Pics, hope there clear enough
 
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Old 12-22-15, 12:49 PM
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Sorry i just reread my post, its the red wire on the far right thats not getting a reading when paired with left or ground. When i unplugged the cord im not getting continuity on back of dryer where I removed plate and power cord. 3 slots are there....the far connector to the right isnt reading with ground or left. That is the red wire, i checked for holes or breaks, i didnt see any shorts or anything. And i got continuity from same wire on main board....so it doesnt seem to be power cord, all breakers were checked again.Name:  20151222_111711_029.jpg
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Old 12-22-15, 03:59 PM
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Looks like you took the cord off dryer? Carefully Plug cord in and each outside leg should have 120 volts when measured to center cord. 240 when measured two outer legs. I think you said one side was not reading 120 when out leg to middle. If so you have a power source problem. Dryer will run but not heat if it does not have 240 volts to it. Do not touch any wire ends or wire to ground when cord plugged in
I had to edit my last post saw where some words did not make sense.
 
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Old 12-23-15, 08:52 AM
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Yes, the left to center ]reads 124 center to right and left to right stays on 1. When i took off the top i followed the right (red wire) to the mainboard it read 120 on mainboard but nothing on back of dryer. Power cord when plugged in read fine.
 
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Old 12-23-15, 04:27 PM
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Sorry I can not understand what you are saying. back of dryer where cord goes in
terminal 1 to 2 should have 120 +- a couple volts terminals 2 to 3 should have 120 volts,
terminals 1 to 3 should have 240 volts Don't go into dryer at this point, If no 240 at 1 to 3 than you have a power problem. Keep us posted still trying to help but need to get on same page. I don't see where you have 240 in your post.
 
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Old 12-24-15, 03:52 AM
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1to3 and 2to 3 gives nothing
 
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Old 12-24-15, 03:10 PM
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1 to 3 should be 240 2 to 3 should 120 You have a power source problem. either cord or something in wiring. With cover off outlet check voltage same way. Center lug is neutral.
 
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Old 12-25-15, 09:56 PM
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Merry Christmas and happy Holidays to all! After plugging power cord back in 1 to 3 243 1to 2 123 2to 3 123 a couple of those things on mainboard are dusty and crooked but everything looks pretty darn good. I bought this combo used at flea market its performed flawless for 16 months, i thought the inside wiuld be horrible it wasn't bad at all, i vacuum a little dust in spots. In morning I'll recheck thermostat, fuses, i never pulled thermocouple all the way out to check for breaks because it showed continuity. Should i still unhook everything and pull out? I caught hell down there.

Anyways I just ran for 30 minutes and no sign of heat, should i run linger or it would've shown a sign of heat by now?

Thanks
 
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Old 12-26-15, 03:29 AM
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It is a single circuit from back thermostat through the heater, as long as you have continuity From thermostat to heater (be sure check from both lugs back thermostat, I know hard to reach, but must make sure you are going through the stat. same with heater) Like I said before if it gets harder from here. Within a minute or two you should feel heat in dryer if working.
Did you find tech sheet?
 
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Old 12-28-15, 04:38 PM
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Ok, ive went brain dead so excuse my terminology. Im not sure whats what but i checked 3 things on the element i believe the first to be the element and the next 2 to be thermostat 1 and 2. All 3 were good on continuity. The first 12.4 the next 2 0.4 and 0.5.

Next , i took off black housing and checked Thermal fuse, it was good but again the thermistor had no continuity but i remember the YouTube reply were the gentleman was instructed to change multimeter to Ohms when changed to ohms in every ohms setting the thermistor read -12.5 -14, -1 and -10.4.

Inside mainboard its dusty and a couple of those circular tube things sre crooked. I don't know if I should straighten them out or leave then.


I dont seem to see a wiring diaphragm .

Thanks and sorry for late response.
 
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Old 12-29-15, 05:13 AM
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If there diagram should be taped to lower panel or taped to lower side, usually left side. Inside of plastic bag. Hope it is there as I have a hard time getting them. Your readings seen good, I always just use the tone for continuity checks, Faster and easier foe me, thermistor will not be your problem and ohm readings is right for that. Don't straighten the resistors may break. Back of board should see a relay with 2 heavy wires. read voltage across both terminals with wires plugged in. Should be 0 volts if 240 you have something wrong in heater circuit. either relay bad (board) centrifugal switch in motor(motor) or one of heater parts and I think every thing should be good there from your readings.
You did say you have 240 volts to back of dryer on 1 and 3 terminals and 120 volts to 1&2 and 2&3 Take readings at back of dryer.
 
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Old 12-31-15, 04:25 PM
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Your the best and my apology for delayed response hadnt been feeling too well but much better now.

K1 heater is only i saw with 2 thick cords, it woke me up to say the least but no voltage from it but i see it doesn't like to be touched, lol.

1 to 3 246 1to2 and 2to3 122.

A couple of questions, i pulled thermocouple element all the way out and see no breaks. Simce i first checked i never but the element box back in circle because I couldn't get it to fit. Is it important for it to sit in proper position? Its pretty much been sitting on ground but thermostats and everything is plugged.

Circled in pics...is a belt or anything supposed to be attached to red thing in very back? Would dustvplay a role? Also, possibly more important forgive my terminology again but in the element box that white attachment is connected everywhere except the spot circled. Its very stiff so i cant imagine its not in correct position but all the others touch something.

I dont see a diaphragm, i bought used 1.5 years ago at a flea market. I service info which states how to remove blower wheel.


The plate outside fell off 2 months ago i got it to stay with liquid nails, the foil also had 3 or 4 holes when dryer stopped working. I think i took care of holes but using same foil. Im dont feel or see anymore holes but i small hole wouldn't be the problem would it?

Thanks so much again, not being mechanically inclined ive failed on recent diy fixes. If I could fix this dryer it would silence a couple and give me my groove back. Thanks so much.
 
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Old 01-01-16, 05:19 AM
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UNPLUG DRYER BEFORE TOUCHING ANY WIRES
The heater coil looks good. As long it does not touch medal anyplace you are ok. To reinstall heater box without taking out drum you will have to bend the back tab down. About 1/2 way should do it. Since you have heater box out very easy to check everything. I always use the sound part of meter. hold leads together and turn knob until you hear a tone. Thermostats and heater should have a tone. One of heater lugs to heater box should not have a tone. If everything ok there reinstall heater box and connect all wires. Try dryer it no heat disconnect one wire to heater. Turn dryer on and the disconnected wire and the lug on heater box should both have 120 volts + - a couple of volts.
Relay I was talking about is on control board under top panel. Think a red and black wire.
Let us know what you find.
Very hard for me to explain.
Volt reads to back of dryer are good.
Google this
GEW9200LW0 wiring diagrams
See if you can find one I did not but did not send much time looking.
 

Last edited by pugsl; 01-01-16 at 05:47 AM.
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