Fridge diagnostic
#1
05-01-16, 03:38 AM
Fridge diagnostic
When I plug my fridge, it starts making its normal noise for a couple of seconds and then stops.
I checked the ohms on the pins of the compressor, which gives 15, 19 and 26.
Any hint?
I checked the ohms on the pins of the compressor, which gives 15, 19 and 26.
Any hint?
#2
05-01-16, 04:27 AM
Is the compressor charged with refrigerant? You could have a bad switch or sensor. Is the "cold" control set to a cooler temperature? Make and model will help us, too.
#3
05-01-16, 05:33 AM
Unless there has been a leak, the amount of liquid shouldn't have changed and this fridge was working great till then, but I don't know how to check this.
I tried various temp adjustments to no avail. The problem is that it stops after 5 seconds every time I try to plug it.
If I leave it plugged with a thermometer in it, it just displays the room temperature after several hours.
The model is a "wine cellar" called Fust Novamatic KSWF 501.3 - IB
https://www.fust.ch/fr/p/cuisine/ref...sw-108331.html
Thanks for any help.
I tried various temp adjustments to no avail. The problem is that it stops after 5 seconds every time I try to plug it.
If I leave it plugged with a thermometer in it, it just displays the room temperature after several hours.
The model is a "wine cellar" called Fust Novamatic KSWF 501.3 - IB
https://www.fust.ch/fr/p/cuisine/ref...sw-108331.html
Thanks for any help.
#4
05-01-16, 06:34 AM
Super Moderator
Welcome to our forums!
It is likely either a defective compressor or a bad relay that is causing your symptoms.
Some tradespeople would connect a manual "start box" to the compressor to test the start and running of the compressor.
Replacing the relay and overload would be the easiest way to troubleshoot it.
Some tradespeople would connect a manual "start box" to the compressor to test the start and running of the compressor.
Replacing the relay and overload would be the easiest way to troubleshoot it.
#5
05-01-16, 10:59 AM
Group Moderator
The three pins on the compressor are C=common, S=start and R=run windings. Your measurements show no open windings.
There should be two power wires going to the white relay with the arrow. You should measure 220vac there as long as the compressor should be running. That white piece is the starting device and may be defective.
There should be two power wires going to the white relay with the arrow. You should measure 220vac there as long as the compressor should be running. That white piece is the starting device and may be defective.
#6
05-01-16, 01:44 PM
When the relay is plugged to the compressor, there's some noise every 5 seconds as if it was "trying" and my multimeter goes down from 230VAC to 220 for a few seconds during these attempts.
I don't know if that means the relay is OK or not.
I don't know if that means the relay is OK or not.
Last edited by dude1x; 05-01-16 at 02:08 PM.
#7
05-01-16, 02:03 PM
Group Moderator
So far so good. It would be good if you could check for power on those same wires while they are connected to the compressor.
See if the voltage changes when the compressor stops.
See if the voltage changes when the compressor stops.
#8
05-02-16, 12:43 AM
It switches from 230V when the relay is not "trying" down to between 220 and 224V when it makes it trying noise.
Thanks
Thanks
#9
05-02-16, 12:53 AM
Group Moderator
You've proven that the thermostat is not at fault since you are not losing power.
If that start device is not defective... then you have an internal compressor problem.
If that start device is not defective... then you have an internal compressor problem.
