Replacing burnt cord on Whirlpool stove
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Replacing burnt cord on Whirlpool stove
My stove stopped working with an F9 error. Further inspection revealed a burnt out power cord. See picture. One leg of the 40A (8,8,10 gauge) power cord is charred. This has also discolored and charred the wire that it connects to past the terminal block.
I can replace the terminal block and the power cord but I am not sure what to do about the red wire that extends from the terminal block into the stove control panel.
I can either
1. Cut it back about an inch and affix a new ring terminal, but I am concerned it might not be long enough to reach the terminal block.
2. Replace the entire wire, except that I cannot trace where it goes. I lose it around the green arrow in pic2. where is seems to split into two red wires.
My suspicion is the connections were badly installed or we moved the stove excessively causing it to loosen. So I want to bring it back to life and see if the problem persists.
Thank you for your help.
I can replace the terminal block and the power cord but I am not sure what to do about the red wire that extends from the terminal block into the stove control panel.
I can either
1. Cut it back about an inch and affix a new ring terminal, but I am concerned it might not be long enough to reach the terminal block.
2. Replace the entire wire, except that I cannot trace where it goes. I lose it around the green arrow in pic2. where is seems to split into two red wires.
My suspicion is the connections were badly installed or we moved the stove excessively causing it to loosen. So I want to bring it back to life and see if the problem persists.
Thank you for your help.
#2
Post model # you may have to replace wire block if nut will not screw off. If nut screws off no need to replace block. Just splice a new piece of wire in where the red wire is burnt about 3 or 4 inches., With dryers they usually supply new wires to do this, Pretty common problem when nuts are not tight enough.
#3
Group Moderator
If you reuse your current block make sure that the face is shiny and clean. You may need to buff it with some fine sandpaper to remove oxidation and charring.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks pugsl, that is very useful. The model number is Whirlpool WFE510S0AS0 Stove/Oven range
How would I go about the splicing. With a high temp. high current wire nut? probably just cannot use insulation tape right?
Unfortunately, the terminal block broke when I was trying to unscrew the nut. Probably brittle from heat. So thanks for the info Pilot Dane but I need a new block...
How would I go about the splicing. With a high temp. high current wire nut? probably just cannot use insulation tape right?
Unfortunately, the terminal block broke when I was trying to unscrew the nut. Probably brittle from heat. So thanks for the info Pilot Dane but I need a new block...
#5
I always just use a butt connector. Can pick them up in any Lowes or HD. here is a diagram of stove parts Part # 21 is what you need
CHASSIS PARTS Diagram & Parts List for Model wfe510s0as0 Whirlpool-Parts Range-Parts | SearsPartsDirect
Take part # or model # to local appliance parts store, they should have one there.
Wire nut will work also.
CHASSIS PARTS Diagram & Parts List for Model wfe510s0as0 Whirlpool-Parts Range-Parts | SearsPartsDirect
Take part # or model # to local appliance parts store, they should have one there.
Wire nut will work also.
#6
That red wire looks fine. Disconnect it from the block and use fine emery paper to clean it up.
That insulation can take a lot of heat which is why it's still intact.
The power cords use s soft vinyl insulation that melts easily.
That insulation can take a lot of heat which is why it's still intact.
The power cords use s soft vinyl insulation that melts easily.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks greatly pugsl. I have sourced the terminal block and replacement cord.
Also I see the butt connectors are available at the local. THough it would be great if I could just use the red cable as is as PJMax suggests. That would make it a simple fix.
PJMax, thanks for chipping in, I was concerned about the white discoloration, it seems odd that things would burn to white but I dont know what it looked like before...
Also I see the butt connectors are available at the local. THough it would be great if I could just use the red cable as is as PJMax suggests. That would make it a simple fix.
PJMax, thanks for chipping in, I was concerned about the white discoloration, it seems odd that things would burn to white but I dont know what it looked like before...
#8
The red jacket is discolored by the heat rising from the loose connection. It looks ok in the picture. If the actual copper is burned you may need a new lug.
#9
Try lightly bending wire where it turns white, if it bends like the rest it is ok but if it is hard the wire may be burnt
#10
Member
Thread Starter
So I tried to bend the wire at the end... it seems really stiff compared with other parts of the wire. But then again its a much shorter section so its hard to judge.
However, this is rendered moot by the fact that I cannot get the nut on the ring terminal off... it seems fused on there pretty good. Any ideas?
Still waiting on ordered parts, so will probably go with the splicing route.
Thanks all for your help. Will update when its all up and running.
However, this is rendered moot by the fact that I cannot get the nut on the ring terminal off... it seems fused on there pretty good. Any ideas?
Still waiting on ordered parts, so will probably go with the splicing route.
Thanks all for your help. Will update when its all up and running.
#11
Break the plastic apart, hold the head of the bolt that was in the plastic with vise grips and use a small wrench on the nut.
If it still wont break loose..... cut the wire and replace the crimp. However, the crimp must be solidly crimped on or you will have the same problem again.
If it still wont break loose..... cut the wire and replace the crimp. However, the crimp must be solidly crimped on or you will have the same problem again.
#12
Wait till parts come some come with short wires to splice in and some don't. Have gotten them both ways.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
I want to try and get this done finally today. Cooking on a camping stove is getting old!
So the parts have arrived and without a splice wire. I am going to just cut one of the ring connectors off the old plug and splice it in.
I am running into trouble with choosing a butt connector. Does this have to be rated for high temperature. The one I bought says max. temp 105 C. That seems hardly enough...
thanks.
So the parts have arrived and without a splice wire. I am going to just cut one of the ring connectors off the old plug and splice it in.
I am running into trouble with choosing a butt connector. Does this have to be rated for high temperature. The one I bought says max. temp 105 C. That seems hardly enough...
thanks.