Kenmore Electric Dryer overheating
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Kenmore Electric Dryer overheating
Hello,
Dryer run on LOW HEAT setting and Even Heating (auto, not timer). when I went to check on it and the dryer was boiling. Almost impossible to touch the door. It still had good 10 minutes in my opinion until it would stop.
I checked the vent outside and very strong air coming out, so the vent is not clogged.
This morning I run it again on NO HEAT. After about 2 minutes when I opened the door (yes, the drum was spinning) I could feel strong heat coming from the dryer. Again - 2 minutes. I stood there for a few seconds and it seemed like the heat was getting stronger even though I shut the dryer off. I also heard some noise of what could be an expanding heating element, or perhaps metal expanding/contracting due to heat, similar to a cooling car after a drive.
Remember - the temp. control was set to NO HEAT.
Any idea what it might be and how to check it?
Thanks.
Dryer run on LOW HEAT setting and Even Heating (auto, not timer). when I went to check on it and the dryer was boiling. Almost impossible to touch the door. It still had good 10 minutes in my opinion until it would stop.
I checked the vent outside and very strong air coming out, so the vent is not clogged.
This morning I run it again on NO HEAT. After about 2 minutes when I opened the door (yes, the drum was spinning) I could feel strong heat coming from the dryer. Again - 2 minutes. I stood there for a few seconds and it seemed like the heat was getting stronger even though I shut the dryer off. I also heard some noise of what could be an expanding heating element, or perhaps metal expanding/contracting due to heat, similar to a cooling car after a drive.
Remember - the temp. control was set to NO HEAT.
Any idea what it might be and how to check it?
Thanks.
#3
Use a meat thermometer or one that can read temperatures 150 to 200 . Temperature at rear vent should be around 150 to 165. It will cycle down to around 100 to 120 than back up. If over that let us know but extremely rare. check temps with vent tube off and on. Need model #
While you are back there feel air flow then hook up vent tube and go outside and feel air flow should be about the same, Usually reason for hot dryer.
While you are back there feel air flow then hook up vent tube and go outside and feel air flow should be about the same, Usually reason for hot dryer.
#4
I'm guessing a stuck relay or welded thermostat if he's getting heat with the stat to "no heat".
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Thank you both.
Model is 110.63932102.
As I mentioned, very strong airflow from the outside vent. It does not seem at all that there is any blockage in the vent.
And yes - it did produce heat yesterday when I run it for 2 minutes on NO HEAT.
Thanks.
Model is 110.63932102.
As I mentioned, very strong airflow from the outside vent. It does not seem at all that there is any blockage in the vent.
And yes - it did produce heat yesterday when I run it for 2 minutes on NO HEAT.
Thanks.
#7
Run dryer a little longer and see if it heats, You may have 2 problems now. If the heat does not cycle than most likely you will need this Part # 48.
KENMORE ELECTRIC DRYER Parts | Model 11063932102 | Sears PartsDirect
I found one cheaper at
https://www.amazon.com/Supco-SET198-.../dp/B00HKJ306K
if it does not heat you will need to check # 47 and 59 for continuity. Do you have a multi meter?
KENMORE ELECTRIC DRYER Parts | Model 11063932102 | Sears PartsDirect
I found one cheaper at
https://www.amazon.com/Supco-SET198-.../dp/B00HKJ306K
if it does not heat you will need to check # 47 and 59 for continuity. Do you have a multi meter?
#8
pugsi...... he has heat all the time. It's not going to be a cycling stat.
This should be the wiring diagram for your unit. The heat relay is circled in pink. That needs to be checked first. It's part #15 in the link Pugsi left. It's on the Top and Console page.
------------ click on oic for larger view--------------
This should be the wiring diagram for your unit. The heat relay is circled in pink. That needs to be checked first. It's part #15 in the link Pugsi left. It's on the Top and Console page.
------------ click on oic for larger view--------------

#9
Pete on that dryer the heat relay is just a on, off not a cycling relay. When in heat the relay is closed and the cycling thermostat controls temp.. Some dryers used relay to control temp, but not many. If heating when dryer is off than relay. Usual problem with that relay is it will not close and no heat.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
OK, so I have the dryer disassembled
, Heat Element is out. What do I check next? How do I check if the heat relay is good or not?
Thanks.

Thanks.
#11
Hope you did not take drum out, Just took the 2 screws out of heater mount and pulled it out. Did you check temps like I said? Relay is checked when dryer is together and plugged in. When dryer is on and running there should be 0 volts across the 2 red wires. If it reads 240 than relay is bad open but will not have any heat. You need to see if dryer is cycling , Temps should be around 160 + - 10 and go down to around 100 to 120 degrees at rear vent. If dryer goes over this temps than high limit thermostat is bad. There are 2 relays that are the same the one with the heavy red wires on it is the heat relay. While the heater is out go from one of heater terminals and case with ohm meter. should show a open circuit. If drum is still in bend tab down in back of heater to reinstall.
#13
Pete on that dryer the heat relay is just a on, off not a cycling relay. When in heat the relay is closed and the cycling thermostat controls temp..
His problem is heat when there should be no heat. Even if that relay is shorted.... you won't get heat if the machine isn't running because the centrifugal switch is open not allowing any power to the heating element.
As soon as he starts the dryer in NO HEAT mode he gets heat. I don't see anything else but the relay that can cause that.
#15
you have to have dryer running to check relay. When running and dryer in heat across the 2 red wires there should be 0 volts, If 240 the relay is bad.
#16
Member
Thread Starter
I put the dryer back together.
Heat set to Air Fluff/No Heat.
As soon as I run the dryer the heat comes on. I can feel it and also see the heating element glowing red (left the bottom panel off).
In regards to voltage across the relay: there are 4 'red' wires: two red/white on the left (when the panel is flipped to the back) and two red-only much thicker wires on the right. I suppose (and hope
) that you were referring to the two thick red wires. If that's the case - zero volts between them when the dryer is running.
Heat set to Air Fluff/No Heat.
As soon as I run the dryer the heat comes on. I can feel it and also see the heating element glowing red (left the bottom panel off).
In regards to voltage across the relay: there are 4 'red' wires: two red/white on the left (when the panel is flipped to the back) and two red-only much thicker wires on the right. I suppose (and hope

#17
Disconnect the two heavy red wires from the relay and check the terminals with an ohmmeter. There should be no continuity. If there is no continuity..... reconnect it and disconnect one of the smaller wires to the relay and see if you still have heat.
0 volts between them means the relay is closed.
We need to find out if it's stuck/welded closed OR the control board is telling it to close.
0 volts between them means the relay is closed.
We need to find out if it's stuck/welded closed OR the control board is telling it to close.
#18
Member
Thread Starter
It was the relay and I just realized that I have a spare relay (bought two when another relay went bad). The relay showed CLOSE between COM and NO, replaced the relay and it's fine now.
Thank you all for your help!!
Thank you all for your help!!