Maytag electric dryer not heating.


  #1  
Old 04-12-17, 12:13 PM
F
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Maytag electric dryer not heating.

Hey guys! New to the forum and i was wondering if you could help me with this problem.

I have an old maytag LDE512 electric dryer that spins but wont heat up. When i initially opened the dryer there was a wire going to the hi-limit thermostat that was completely burnt off, so i cut the burnt portion off and crimped a new connector on. I thought it was a simple fix but still dint heat.

I checked for voltage at the outlet got 249V, checked for continuity on the 2 cycling thermostats and hi limit thermostats which they both have. (this model does not have a thermal fuse)

Also checked the heater coil for continuity and to make sure it wast grounded to the housing, all checked out good. Timer does not advance in auto-dry but will advance in timed -dry.

Any ideas??
Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 04-12-17, 02:56 PM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: United States
Posts: 8,161
Received 77 Upvotes on 70 Posts
Here is a wiring diagram for your dryer , it is to small for my eyes but the wire from the centrifugal Switch should have 120 volts with dryer running. Wire needs to be unplugged from heater to read. Been many years since i had one apart so can't remember if you can run dryer with front off. The other possibility is timer contacts burnt. You have checked all the easy things.
 
  #3  
Old 04-12-17, 03:52 PM
F
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Hey, thanks for your reply, although i cant see the wiring diagram. I forgot to mention that i took apart the timer and checked the contacts. One of the had a bit of carbon build up which i cleaned up, but nothing too bad.

So your saying that the centrifugal switch could cause the dryer not to heat?
 
  #4  
Old 04-12-17, 04:03 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 64,939
Received 3,951 Upvotes on 3,544 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

I think the electronics also monitor the thermostat opening for automatic operation along with the moisture sensor.

I'm looking at a 712 wiring diagram which should be similar.

L1 and neutral run the entire dryer. L2 is used only for the 240v supply to the heating element. You checked for 240v at the receptacle. Now check carefully at the power cord connection point on the back of the dryer. L1 has a yellow and a black wire on it. L2 should have only one wire.... either black or possibly blue. You may find a burned wire on L2.

Check this first. If ok..... I'll go on.
 
  #5  
Old 04-12-17, 05:34 PM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: United States
Posts: 8,161
Received 77 Upvotes on 70 Posts
Sorry I forgot to include diagram.
https://appliantology.smugmug.com/Ap...cs/i-9rN7mVh/A
Heater circuit goes through centrifugal switch.
 
  #6  
Old 04-12-17, 07:49 PM
F
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for your reply i checked the back of the dryer at the terminal block and saw the wires exactly as you described but they were all intact.
\Name:  20170412_223908.jpg
Views: 812
Size:  27.7 KB

Also thank you for the wiring diagram. I do have the wiring diagram for my model, but im not that great at using them for troubleshooting.

I uploaded the wiring diagram here so its easier to see: http://imgur.com/a/A29WI
 
Attached Images  
  #7  
Old 04-12-17, 10:03 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 64,939
Received 3,951 Upvotes on 3,544 Posts
That's much simpler than the 712.

I marked the diagram for you. I used pink for the L1 path and green for the L2 path. Dryer needs to be running so be careful. Drum doesn't need to be in. Motor does need to be operating.

The green line is L2. There is a switch in the motor that closes when the motor is running.
Check for 240v power at the pink and green dots. If you have power it's the hi limit stat or the element. If you don't have power..... disconnect the two wires from the hi limit stat.
Check from ground to the green dot for 120v power.
If not there.... troubleshoot the green line.
If there.... check from pink dot to ground for 120v.
If no power at pink.... troubleshoot the pink line.

click for larger diagram
 
  #8  
Old 04-13-17, 06:07 AM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: United States
Posts: 8,161
Received 77 Upvotes on 70 Posts
Door switch needs to be closed to make motor run when dryer is apart.
 
  #9  
Old 04-13-17, 03:19 PM
F
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks so much for your reply!
 

Last edited by fede20222; 04-13-17 at 03:48 PM.
  #10  
Old 04-13-17, 03:47 PM
F
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks so much for your reply! I'm going to test that once I get home. So could the hi limit thermostat or heater element be bad even if it has continuity? Because the wire that was burn was the PU15 wire going to the hi limit thermostat.
 
  #11  
Old 04-13-17, 03:52 PM
pugsl's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: United States
Posts: 8,161
Received 77 Upvotes on 70 Posts
hAVE NEVER SEEN ONE BAD WHEN IT HAS CONTINUITY (sorry cap lock key) but have neard of one that only shows bad when under load. Very rare.
 
  #12  
Old 04-15-17, 05:13 PM
F
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
So I found that the L1 pink line didn't have proper voltage. So to troubleshoot that line I know that the 2 cycling thermostats have continuity, so could it be the temperature switch or timer? How can test these to see if they are the problem.

Thanks again for the help.
 
  #13  
Old 04-15-17, 10:51 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 64,939
Received 3,951 Upvotes on 3,544 Posts
Keep checking backwards in the circuit.
Check for power at the stats.
Check at the temp switch for power.
Check for power at the timer... purple.... PU-49. If not there.... timer is bad.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: