How cold is too cold? kenmore side by side 106.9550781

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-16-17, 01:10 PM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 13
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
How cold is too cold? kenmore side by side 106.9550781

After more than a month replaced thermostat, defrost timer and bi metal (I'm not positive any of these were absolutely failed) After replacing each component, it would be fine for 4-5 days, then temps in refridge would start to climb over 50.

Each time to mess with, re diagnose, the real problem which was ice blockage in the evaporator would thaw, melt and drain off. On start up, with new component, it would again work fine for a while. I replaced the defrost timer because I was convince it wasn't turning. On my workbench with 110 volts on it for a hr, it didn't turn.

When it iced up again, I tested continuity in the heater element. This took me to the bi metal thermal switch. I "tested" it using ice water and decided it was bad and bought a new on. Although confident bi-metal was bad, I decided to test the new bi metal. Lo and behold, the new one tested bad. More research led me to discover the ice water test isn't difinative. Put both old and new bi-metal in chest freezer and bingo, both work as they should.

Since it was cheap and already cut wires, I installed new bi-metal. Turned unit back on and it seems to be working fine for last week except it seems a little cold. Freezer is close to zero but fridge is in 34-38 range. The temp dial is very sensitive and the air balance is difficult to move. (Seems the difusser has a sticky point). I have the plastic cover off where I can get more control by moving the steel rod instead of the dial.

I feel confident the defrost cycle is working cause I can see a temperature spike in both freezer and fridge every 8 hrs or so. (I have a temp data logger)

I have a new difusser and haven't replaced it yet because moving food, etc to spare downstairs refridgerator and chest freezer is getting old. I thought I'd give it a week or so more and play with controls.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-16-17, 01:43 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 57,667
Received 909 Votes on 849 Posts
Still playing with this fridge ??
You've got like 4-5 threads on the same thing.
 
  #3  
Old 07-18-17, 09:39 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 13
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes, I have posted several times. If I add to an earlier post after some time (several days), it seems if no one replies, plus I may have the reverse Midas touch. Every time I messed with it (try to adjust) it went downhill.

I also got some conflicting information (not sure if on this site or another DIY site) The ice water test is not conclusive for failure of the bi-metal evaporator sensor.

Is this normal? are the controls that sensitive?

I know the thermometers in both sides will be affected if a door is open for more than a 20-30 seconds. Maybe I'm just looking to much but it would be nice to see a fairly consistent reading on the temp data logger over a 12 hr period with no doors opened. I would expect a zig zag reading reflecting compressor on and off, plus a spike every 8 hrs for the defrost cycle.
 
  #4  
Old 07-18-17, 01:13 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 57,667
Received 909 Votes on 849 Posts
I'm basically the only one here responding to appliance repairs. When it gets hot.... it gets busy and my time here is shortened.

The defrost timer may be setup for accumulated run time. 8 compressor running
hours. That means it may be several days before it defrosts.

I rarely remove a defrost stat to check it. I remove the evaporator cover and put the unit in defrost mode. It either defrosts or it doesn't. I troubleshoot from there.
 
  #5  
Old 07-19-17, 09:38 AM
H
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 13
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
follow up

Regarding defrost timer, setup option is cumulative or continuous. I set for continuous like original. Do you have a preference?

Sorry about all the posts but all this stared last May, when I replaced the thermostat following similar indications. It ran fine for a year.

It crapped out again in this May. I first replaced thermostat again. After realizing ice, I checked continuity of heater element. It was good, then replaced def Timer and stat over a couple weeks trying to nail it down.

It's ran fine for 9 days holding temps other than slightly cold (34-38) in fridge might be due to adjusting thermostat / diffuser trying to get right.

Since temps logged a little erratic due to adjusting over 9 days, I wanted a log without messing with controls and kept the doors closed.

Attached is a print of the temp range in freezer from 14:55 yesterday through 18:27 when temps increased. Although not shown on this log, previous logs showed a spike every 8 hrs or so, indicating defrost cycle. Previous logs showed slight variance, but weren't too bad over last 9 days. When the temps started to go up yesterday, evaporator showed no ice build up.

Through last evening, I shut it off a couple times for 1/2 hr and back on, hoping it would start up again. At about 3:AM, the freezer and fridge were 40 and 50, probably due to frozen food retaining cold so we moved the food to the downstairs spare refrigerator. (33 yr old Montgomery Ward, although ugly door panel rust in damp basement, it never hicuped once)

During the night, through morning, I am pretty sure the compressor did not come on, even though I didn't pull it out to look. This morning, I turned it off completely.

After being off for three hours, turned on and evaporator getting cold. Compressor is not making any noise, just a slight hum felt with my hand, rather than heard. Only a few drips of water in tray as opposed to almost overflowing previously when evaporator iced up as it did before replacing all three items.

Fans (compressor and evaporator) come on as they should). To my knowledge the only on/off control for the compressor are in the defrost timer and the thermostat. I probably should have checked these with a meter before I turned it on. What bothers me perhaps it will continue running fine and lull me into thinking it is ok and in 9 days will crap out again.

Before we put food back in, I'm going to take the timer out and put 110V on, then hook a blue light to contacts for the compressor and red light defrost element contacts. I'l also double check the jumper to insure it's on the contact for continuous time run.

Can you think of anything else to check?

Given the difficulty in getting temps fine tuned and balanced, I'm wondering if this can be traced to the thermostat capillary tube possibly kinked. Does that sound plausible for what I'm experiencing?


Name:  july 18 temp.jpg
Views: 42
Size:  15.9 KB
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: