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Kenmore Dryer 110.63932102 - constant heat in Extra Low / Timer Won't Advance


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10-08-17, 08:31 PM   #1 (permalink)  
Kenmore Dryer 110.63932102 - constant heat in Extra Low / Timer Won't Advance

Hello,

Two problems, or perhaps they are connected.

When setting the Heat to Ultra Delicate/Extra low, the heating element stays on, won't shut off. The heating element will shut off if I switch the knob to Air Fluff/No Heat in the middle of the cycle (I removed the bottom cover and can see the element turns off. If I switch back to Extra Low, it comes back on).

In addition, I noticed that the timer will not advance at all.

I tried to test the timer according to the instructions in the tech sheet but something is a miss.

1. See first attachment: during test mode, I heard the beep when I moved the timer manually, however it did not advance during the test.
2. Timer wiring (see second and third attachment): In the tech sheet, it shows a Blue wire coming out of the white connector on the bottom of the timer. However as you can see in the picture (third attachment), I have two black wires coming out of this connector: One is connected to the black connector on the switch assembly, the other one goes to PT1.
So when checking the Timer Test in Page 5 (see 4th attachment), when it says BU ("to PT-1"), am I checking the connector of the actual Blue wire of the timer or am I checking the connector of the black wire that comes out of the white connector (which is supposed to be BU?!

Thanks in advance.

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10-09-17, 03:55 AM   #2 (permalink)  
One of several things could be bad. Timer and temp control all, start with control board. First look for a burnt spot on control board, That board is a known problem. Check for 120 volts on black wire to timer from control board. Next timer , temp switch, thermostat. Open console and there is a tech sheet there with wiring diagram. Hard to read one I found.

 
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10-09-17, 04:21 AM   #3 (permalink)  
I have the tech sheet, as you can see in the screen shots.

Which black wire? I There is a wide plastic connector that has three wires coming in - (from left) blue, black and white. Are you referring to this black wire, or the black wire that I mentioned about that goes to BK?
Also, 120V between Black wire and which other wire?

Temp switch - heating element comes on, it just doesn't turn off to lower the temp. Can a bad temp switch affect the timer?


CORRECTION and UPDATE:

1. There are no burn marks on the board, either side.
2. The wide plastic connector has blue, black and RED wires (from left to right; not blue, black and white).



Thanks.


Last edited by SBI; 10-09-17 at 05:58 AM.
 
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10-10-17, 02:10 PM   #4 (permalink)  
Any idea how to proceed?

Thanks.

 
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10-10-17, 03:41 PM   #5 (permalink)  
The two black wires that go to the back of the timer need 120vac on them for timer to run.


You can check using an ohmmeter across those two black wires for approx 3Kohm. One of the black wires should be disconnected when checking for continuity.

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10-10-17, 05:23 PM   #6 (permalink)  
OK, so I checked the two black wires, first the PT1 disconnected from the board and the other one connected to the timer, and then I swithced - connected the PT1 and disconnected the other one from the timer. Nothing...not 3Kohm, 2Kohms...nada.

Now, you wrote and marked 120V between them, I suppose the fact that there is no impedance between the two black wires, that means that the timer is not getting 120V?

 
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10-11-17, 02:13 AM   #7 (permalink)  
Check for 120 volts from black to a white wire. White is a neutral.Dose the timer run in any position?

 
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10-11-17, 04:21 AM   #8 (permalink)  
Which black, the thin one from above or the thicker one in the wider plastic connector (the one between the blue and red)?
Also, what does it men "run in any position"?

 
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10-11-17, 05:17 AM   #9 (permalink)  
The black one from board to timer. I can't read colors on diagram but if I remember right all black to white will read 120v. Unplug black wire at board and read volts at terminal on board. UNPLUG dryer before taking wire off.

 
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10-11-17, 06:47 AM   #10 (permalink)  
Thanks pugsl.

Sorry to be a pain, but I need to clarify that I'm not doing anything stupid.

There are two black wires in total connected to the timer.

There are 4 wires connected vertically (when you lift the panel backwards, as in the attached picture): violet, blue, black (which comes from the timer motor and connected to BU) and white. These are thin wires.
Then there are three more wires, thicker, that are connected together inside a plastic connector and they connect to the timer horizontally. These three are marked with red squares in the picture.

There is a third (thin black wire that goes from the timer motor to the board (PT1).

So I should have 120V between the PT1 black wire and either of the two whites?

Thanks.

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10-11-17, 07:04 AM   #11 (permalink)  
Thin black wire from timer motor to board, Unplug at board and read voltage at board terminal. Diagram I can get I can't read wire colors but the center terminal on plug block (back of dryer) is the white wire and anyplace it runs is a good place to check. Terminal to white dryer on 120v.

 
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10-11-17, 07:37 AM   #12 (permalink)  
Posted By: pugsl Thin black wire from timer motor to board, Unplug at board and read voltage at board terminal. Diagram I can get I can't read wire colors but the center terminal on plug block (back of dryer) is the white wire and anyplace it runs is a good place to check. Terminal to white dryer on 120v.
No, the center terminal on plug block is black wire. The plug block does not have a white wire, it has (from left, as in the above picture) Blue, Black and Red. The only white wire in the entire timer assembly is a thin wire (see in the pic, marked with white arrow.

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10-11-17, 08:35 AM   #13 (permalink)  
This is a electric dryer? Model # shows as electric. Cord coming in take plate off and should be 3 or 4 wires, Center should be white. Might be able to look down through top and see. Trace white wire back to a esay place to reach.

 
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10-11-17, 08:42 AM   #14 (permalink)  
It is an electric dryer. The plug block definitely, 100%, has 3 wires - blue, black and red.
The only white wire is a thin one.

 
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10-11-17, 10:56 AM   #15 (permalink)  
Did you find your wiring diagram? White wire will e neutral no mater the size. Ohm temp switch values are on diagram. Did you check volt reading? You can go black to any ground screw also.

 
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10-12-17, 04:13 AM   #16 (permalink)  
So the timer is running in Time mode, not sure about Even heat.

One thing for sure is that the Heat Element stays on all the time and does not shut off even as as the temp. is high (when set to medium or low heat for example). The only time it shuts off is when I turn the knob to Air Fluff/No Heat.

 
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10-12-17, 06:28 AM   #17 (permalink)  
Have you done any of the tests? Everything is controled by control board. What are the voltage readings.

 
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10-12-17, 09:20 AM   #18 (permalink)  
pugsl - I am still not sure what/where to check for 120V. Where does the timer gets 120V from, the PT1 connector?

As I said, the timer is advancing while in Timer mode, so it seems like the timer is getting voltage.
The problem seems to be elsewhere because the heat doesn't shut off.
The annoying thing is that occasionally it does...it did yesterday (heat shut off), we put a load of cloths to dry and sure enough it stopped working again (meaning the heat did NOT shut off).
This morning I tried it again and now it's working again (that is - moving the heat selector does shut the heat element on/off.

Does this help?

 
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10-12-17, 01:07 PM   #19 (permalink)  
# times I have said unplug the black from timer to control board. Check volts at board terminal in cycle you are having problem. Check from terminal to a ground screw if no white wire near. Can not read numbers on wiring diagram I found. If timer runs in any cycle than timer is good. Still points to control board but you do need to check. Did you read ohms of temp switch. Values are o n your tech sheet.

 
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