Whirlpool Dishwasher Model No. DU1055XTSS3
#1
04-04-18, 01:19 PM
Whirlpool Dishwasher Model No. DU1055XTSS3
I'm wondering if my motor is shot. I push the start button and it fills with water. The float works and the water stops. Then all I get is a humming noise. Is it the motor?
#2
04-04-18, 01:30 PM
Member
It's certainly possible. I would suggest pulling the dishwasher out (turn off the power first), and try turning the motor by hand. If the motor shaft turns hard or doesn't turn, try disconnecting the motor from the dishwasher to determine whether it's the motor that's seized or something else in the dishwasher. My previous dishwasher developed a leak around the main seal, allowing water to drip onto the motor shaft. In time the bearings rusted and I had to replace the motor and seal.
#3
04-04-18, 01:58 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Sound like the pump is jammed. Try cleaning it out . DW guy will be soon and will have better idea on how.
#4
04-04-18, 02:29 PM
Thanks for the replies Bob/pugsl. I really don't like the idea of pulling this thing out. It fought with me to go in. If the DW guy can help me and I don't have to pull it out, great, but if it saves me from having to buy a new motor or DW I'll do it. If it's a $130 motor to replace it still beats $500 for a new DW. I'm more of a part swapper than a diagnostic guy so any help is appreciated.
#5
04-04-18, 03:44 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Check out some of these videos out, they may help.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...3+pump+replace
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...3+pump+replace
#6
04-04-18, 05:18 PM
Group Moderator
There is nothing you can do with the dishwasher in place. There is a run capacitor on the motor that could be bad. There could be something inside the volute and grinder assembly jamming the impeller. I usually change the pump and motor as an assembly. You can get the motor separately. This first link has all the exploded views of your unit. Look under the "pump and motor" tab.
Sears parts direct/model-number/du1055xtss3/1198/0130000.html
This second link is of the pump and motor assy.
There is a video you can watch ahead of time to see what's involved.
Appliance parts pros/whirlpool-motor-pump-wpw10757217.html#autoplay
TS: w10130990
Sears parts direct/model-number/du1055xtss3/1198/0130000.html
This second link is of the pump and motor assy.
There is a video you can watch ahead of time to see what's involved.
Appliance parts pros/whirlpool-motor-pump-wpw10757217.html#autoplay
TS: w10130990
Last edited by PJmax; 04-05-18 at 05:37 PM.
#7
04-04-18, 06:27 PM
Ok, I'm going to have to take the DW out. Sucks but so be it. PJmax, is there a way to test the motor? If so how? In your experience, do you think it's the motor? PJ/pugsl thank you very much for the links. They are a tremendous help.
#8
04-04-18, 06:40 PM
Group Moderator
#10
04-05-18, 05:06 PM
PJmax, I pulled the DW out got it on my workbench. Pulled the motor out and it spins fine. Cleaned the wire screen, a little gunked up but I didn't think it was too bad. Pulled the pump out and it spins fine. Going to pull the insides and check the other screen, cutting blades, etc. Anything else I should check?
#11
04-05-18, 05:35 PM
Group Moderator
Since you have the pump out you could try it on the bench. It should be connected with a blue/white and a blue/red wire. Those are the 120vac power connections.
Connect power to those two terminals with the blue wires disconnected.
Connect power to those two terminals with the blue wires disconnected.
#12
04-05-18, 07:46 PM
So, a power cord with the wires connected/touching the terminals that correspond to the the blue/white and blue/red wire on the motor with no other connections. Will a power cord with alligator clips work?
#13
04-05-18, 08:15 PM
Group Moderator
#14
04-06-18, 04:38 PM
I hope it doesn't matter which wire touches which terminal (of the wires we talked about). If it does it's too late now. It sparked the first time I tried it. Swapped the wires and all I got was a humming sound, no spinning. Test the capacitor?
#15
04-06-18, 09:39 PM
Group Moderator
#16
04-07-18, 08:32 AM
PJmax, I watched some videos on testing the capacitor. Discharged the capacitor with a screwdriver across the terminals. Hooked up my multimeter, set to ohms (autoranging model) and touched the probes to the terminals. The multimeter readings did not go to zero/OL. Readings just hovered around a range. I swapped the probes on the terminals and got the same results. So I think my capacitor is bad. True?
#17
04-07-18, 09:04 PM
Group Moderator
It's really hard to check it that way.
I'll use a cap tester or just sub in a temporary one to try.
I'll use a cap tester or just sub in a temporary one to try.
#18
04-08-18, 11:25 AM
I noticed that my multimeter had the symbol for testing capacitors so I tried it. I got an OL reading and I'm guessing this means it is bad. I don't have an ESR meter or another cap to try. Ok, I retested and it appears the LCD screen on my multimeter is going bad. I don't get any decent reading so I'm not sure what to think.
Last edited by HOTDIY; 04-08-18 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Update
