GE side by side refrigerator not cooling
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GE side by side refrigerator not cooling
Hello to all.
My GE. side by side refrigerator Model # "GSS22WGMB-BB" stop cooling (the freezer side stop cooling),
All lights inside refrigerator (both sides) are working normal when open doors. Fan inside freezer Okay, Fan in back of refrigerator Okay, Removed /Disconnect start relay (2 wires - Orange and White), also removed Overload device (Black wire).
Check continuity between all 3 Compressor legs -Okay, Check between all 3 Compressor legs to ground - Okay (No Grounding), Check Voltage between 2 terminals (start and run) on the Start relay to overload (common) - (Not Plugged into the compressor) got about 10 V on terminals and also on the back of the stare relay - to common !
I think i need to get 110 V. and that is why I think the compressor is not kicking in.
I head got 3 N 1 Hard Start Kit, which I plugged directly to Compressor with 110 V. - Compressor working Okay.
Need help on this one ?????
Sam
My GE. side by side refrigerator Model # "GSS22WGMB-BB" stop cooling (the freezer side stop cooling),
All lights inside refrigerator (both sides) are working normal when open doors. Fan inside freezer Okay, Fan in back of refrigerator Okay, Removed /Disconnect start relay (2 wires - Orange and White), also removed Overload device (Black wire).
Check continuity between all 3 Compressor legs -Okay, Check between all 3 Compressor legs to ground - Okay (No Grounding), Check Voltage between 2 terminals (start and run) on the Start relay to overload (common) - (Not Plugged into the compressor) got about 10 V on terminals and also on the back of the stare relay - to common !
I think i need to get 110 V. and that is why I think the compressor is not kicking in.
I head got 3 N 1 Hard Start Kit, which I plugged directly to Compressor with 110 V. - Compressor working Okay.
Need help on this one ?????
Sam
#2
Can you find a defrost timer? Usually this is a small somewhat flat box about 2x2 in size and usually it is hidden but it has an exposed shaft about 1/4 inch in diameter that has a screw slot or two fins that a large screwdriver blade will span and turn. Being mechanical it can stop and if it stops on the compressor-dead zone you do not get cooling. If/when you find it turn the shaft to see if the compressor comes on.
Sometimess the screwdriver control is at the back of the refrigerator and sometimes it is inside.
You should be able to get a replacement for it and waiting for Amazon to deliver it you can periodically twist the shaft on the old one to get it out of the dead zone if it should keep going slowly and stall there again
Sometimess the screwdriver control is at the back of the refrigerator and sometimes it is inside.
You should be able to get a replacement for it and waiting for Amazon to deliver it you can periodically twist the shaft on the old one to get it out of the dead zone if it should keep going slowly and stall there again
#3
Removed duplicate posting.
Take the hard start back off the compressor.
Look under the front of the fridge.... behind the kick plate... for the tech sheet. It will help you diagnose the fridge. This unit uses an electronic control board to directly control all the functions. That will need to be diagnosed. This is not an easy DIY repair.
Take the hard start back off the compressor.
Look under the front of the fridge.... behind the kick plate... for the tech sheet. It will help you diagnose the fridge. This unit uses an electronic control board to directly control all the functions. That will need to be diagnosed. This is not an easy DIY repair.
Last edited by PJmax; 04-20-18 at 08:58 PM.
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GE side by side refrigerator not cooling
Gentelman's, Allan and Pete.
Thanks for your reply to my issues with the refrigerator that decided to play half dead on me.
Here are the steps that i took since my first post.
1. I must say that hooking up the compressor direct to a power source using the 3 N 1 Hard Start kit was for a few seconds (3 - 4)
just so I would be 100% sure that I am not dealing with a Grounded compressor, and that is not the case,
The Compressor kicked in and was real quite! No Power was hooked up to the refrigerator.
2. I did placed an orders online for these parts, had received and install
(A). Overtemperature Thermostat,
(B). bundle included Run Capacitor, Overload device, Relay,
(C). Defrost Heater,
(D). Main Control Board.
I did install one part at the time, and run a test to see if the compressor will kick in - No luck !
Please note that the Evaporator Fan inside the freezer, The Condenser Fan at the back,
All lights inside on both side - Were working Okay as it was before replacing these parts.
3. I did checked for continuity with Ohmmeter (beeping) - The black wire (Common) from the compressor side to the main
control board, the same for the Orange wire - they both Okay, beeping loud and clear.
The main control board getting 120 V - tested with voltmeter.
4. I didn't replace any of the three Thermistors (Fresh Food, Evaporator, Freezer) - Maybe that will be the next step.
5. I am still not getting 110-120 V going to the compressor, the refrigerator now is in my garage, and I am using my son little
refrigerator that used when he was in collage.
6. The refrigerator was assembled some time on 2001, The only problem that I had with it was that I needed to replace the
defrost Heater every 2 - 3 years (around $20, now its about $10). The Model # is "GSS22WGMB-BB" by GE.
7. Allen, Please note that I couldn't find the defrost timer on the bottom of the refrigerator nor the Technical Data (wiring diagram)
as Pete was suggesting, but i did managed to get via email from GE. customer service 2 pages that shows where about all the
parts include wiring diagram. which I am going to attached here.
here is a link to diagram for all the parts. http://www.geapplianceparts.com/stor...ly/GSS22WGMDWW
"If there is a mechanical defrost timer on this specific model - I am going to find it"
GE.most definitely not going to tell us where is it.
8. Sorry it didn't go, you may find it online.
Upload Errors
GE. Technical Data - 31-51349-1.pdf: (try to look for these key words)
Your file of 395.7 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 19.5 KB for this filetype.
Tomorrow is another day, will check everywhere and do more testing on the Three Thermistors (sensor temperature).
Still Need help on this one ?????
Please advice.
Sam
Thanks for your reply to my issues with the refrigerator that decided to play half dead on me.
Here are the steps that i took since my first post.
1. I must say that hooking up the compressor direct to a power source using the 3 N 1 Hard Start kit was for a few seconds (3 - 4)
just so I would be 100% sure that I am not dealing with a Grounded compressor, and that is not the case,
The Compressor kicked in and was real quite! No Power was hooked up to the refrigerator.
2. I did placed an orders online for these parts, had received and install
(A). Overtemperature Thermostat,
(B). bundle included Run Capacitor, Overload device, Relay,
(C). Defrost Heater,
(D). Main Control Board.
I did install one part at the time, and run a test to see if the compressor will kick in - No luck !
Please note that the Evaporator Fan inside the freezer, The Condenser Fan at the back,
All lights inside on both side - Were working Okay as it was before replacing these parts.
3. I did checked for continuity with Ohmmeter (beeping) - The black wire (Common) from the compressor side to the main
control board, the same for the Orange wire - they both Okay, beeping loud and clear.
The main control board getting 120 V - tested with voltmeter.
4. I didn't replace any of the three Thermistors (Fresh Food, Evaporator, Freezer) - Maybe that will be the next step.
5. I am still not getting 110-120 V going to the compressor, the refrigerator now is in my garage, and I am using my son little
refrigerator that used when he was in collage.
6. The refrigerator was assembled some time on 2001, The only problem that I had with it was that I needed to replace the
defrost Heater every 2 - 3 years (around $20, now its about $10). The Model # is "GSS22WGMB-BB" by GE.
7. Allen, Please note that I couldn't find the defrost timer on the bottom of the refrigerator nor the Technical Data (wiring diagram)
as Pete was suggesting, but i did managed to get via email from GE. customer service 2 pages that shows where about all the
parts include wiring diagram. which I am going to attached here.
here is a link to diagram for all the parts. http://www.geapplianceparts.com/stor...ly/GSS22WGMDWW
"If there is a mechanical defrost timer on this specific model - I am going to find it"
GE.most definitely not going to tell us where is it.
8. Sorry it didn't go, you may find it online.
Upload Errors
GE. Technical Data - 31-51349-1.pdf: (try to look for these key words)
Your file of 395.7 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 19.5 KB for this filetype.
Tomorrow is another day, will check everywhere and do more testing on the Three Thermistors (sensor temperature).
Still Need help on this one ?????
Please advice.
Sam
#5
This unit uses an electronic control board to directly control all the functions.
That link you left is for GE parts. I don't see any wiring diagram there.
Find the tech sheet. It IS there. It has the information you need on it.
Don't just keep throwing unnecessary parts at it.
Please note that the Evaporator Fan inside the freezer, The Condenser Fan at the back,
All lights inside on both side - Were working Okay as it was before replacing these parts.
That would suggest the control board is at least partially working and calling for cold because if it weren't..... no fans would be running. There is a relay on the board that controls the compressor. That is the most likeliest cause of the problem.
#6
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There is NO defrost timer!
That link you left is for GE parts. I don't see any wiring diagram there.
Find the tech sheet. It IS there. It has the information you need on it.
Don't just keep throwing unnecessary parts at it.
Please note that the Evaporator Fan inside the freezer, The Condenser Fan at the back,
All lights inside on both side - Were working Okay as it was before replacing these parts.
That would suggest the control board is at least partially working and calling for cold because if it weren't..... no fans would be running. There is a relay on the board that controls the compressor. That is the most likeliest cause of the problem.
That link you left is for GE parts. I don't see any wiring diagram there.
Find the tech sheet. It IS there. It has the information you need on it.
Don't just keep throwing unnecessary parts at it.
Please note that the Evaporator Fan inside the freezer, The Condenser Fan at the back,
All lights inside on both side - Were working Okay as it was before replacing these parts.
That would suggest the control board is at least partially working and calling for cold because if it weren't..... no fans would be running. There is a relay on the board that controls the compressor. That is the most likeliest cause of the problem.
Hello to all, Since I wasn't about to give up, there are some good news. My refrigerator got back to life, the compressor working fine, as a mater of fact it has never been so quite since we used it for the first time.
Here is what I did, Since the compressor was not getting 110-120 V. I did checked continuity from the the three terminals that hooked up to the compressor - to the main control board (per cooler). Then removed the Main Control Board, Next , as Pete suggest and went strait to the relay that control the opening and closing a contact that feeding the compressor and check for continuity on the back board.
there was disconnect on one leg that has no continuity where it should. re-solder that leg to the control board, re-hook up all cables.
Run test - everything working as it should.
I did changed the Defrost Heater - $10.50 (it is good to change every 2-3 years or as needed), Overtemperature Thermostat - $5.50
and a bundle of Run Capacitor, Relay and Overload device include Cover Cap all for - $15.50
All expenses include shipping. not bad at all.
I am going to return the Control Board that was for $35.00 because i didn't need it. will keep the 3 N 1 hard start kit - $10.00.
with the return i would be with $50.00 out of pocket to fix the refrigerator that can cost at least $1400 - 1500.
Thanks for all the help and support.
If need the Technical Data (wiring diagram) I can forward via email.
Please send me a P.M.
Thanks again
Last edited by PJmax; 04-22-18 at 04:23 PM. Reason: removed email address
#7
Good job.
Removed your email address.
You don't want to get spammed by the bots that crawl big websites.
Relays and soldering them on the board is a big problem on many control boards.
Removed your email address.
You don't want to get spammed by the bots that crawl big websites.
Relays and soldering them on the board is a big problem on many control boards.
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GE side by side refrigerator not cooling
Thanks again Pete. I can send / forward to you the Technical Data, and the Wiring Diagram (via email), It would be a great tools for
other members to use as the needed.
Please advice ??
Sam.
other members to use as the needed.
Please advice ??
Sam.