identifing a kenmore washer

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  #1  
Old 05-22-18, 02:35 PM
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identifing a kenmore washer

Washer died.
I know kenmore didnt build it.
Looking online, it appears to be a whirlpool.
But, i am unable to identify which whirlpool so i can get a repair manual and/or seek help on here.
I have the original sales reciept, so i know how old it is, model number tag is readable.
Anybody know of a way to identify the whirlpool model?
The models i see online do not match mine.
The console on top for the controls appears to be attached with two screws in the front, one in each lower corner and two screws on the rear top . one in each corner. The rear screws seem to be attached to a black plastic tab that runs for about 1"inch inside the console, then a tab sticks out through the cabinet.
I can post photos, if that helps.
Thanks for whatever help you can give me.
 
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  #2  
Old 05-22-18, 03:09 PM
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Model # on Whirlpool are under the lid in back. There is a tag with model and serial numbers. Lift lid and look under back. If Kenmore usually starts with 110.xxxxx
 
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Old 05-22-18, 04:11 PM
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I have the original sales reciept, so i know how old it is, model number tag is readable.
Post all the info you have to eliminate us guessing.
 
  #4  
Old 05-22-18, 06:38 PM
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Model
110.8287012

Stock
28701 there might be a 1 or 7 at the end.

Serial
C9485018

Purchased
11/28/89

I assume the kenmore model number is not the same number as whirlpool uses.
I need to know what whirlpool calls this washer so i can get a repair manual

Thanks.
 
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Old 05-22-18, 07:50 PM
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Incomplete model number..... could this be it. 110.82870120

That's the basic direct drive Whirlpool machine. Great performer.
What's the problem with it ?

That may be a L-55 series. Pugsi would know.
This should be your machine... L-55-washer-manual/
 

Last edited by PJmax; 05-22-18 at 08:19 PM.
  #6  
Old 05-22-18, 09:55 PM
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Typo, sorry.
110.82870120 is correct.
I will take a look at that manual and see if it is the right one.

It filled, agitated. Then it would not drain or spin. It would hum, like something was trying to move, then click and try again in a minuite. Like an auto reset circuit breaker tripped because of a jam, reset, then trip again.
Plug was getting warm so i unplugged it.

Agitator seemed to be slipping lately. I assumed something wore out but i didnt get a chance to check it.
Not sure if the two are related. I suppose something could have broken off the agitator and jammed the drum.
Hasn't needed service for 29 years, so i assume i will be replacing a few parts while i have it apart, not just whatever broke.


Thank you.
 
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Old 05-22-18, 10:09 PM
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That is one of Whirlpools best made machines. I have a similar one. Same vintage.

The motor runs in the forward direction to agitate. It runs in the reverse direction for draining and spinning. I'd start by unclipping the pump off the motor and try that.

That agitator uses 4 nylon pawls called dogs. They allow the agitator to turn in the forward direction. If you have never replaced them.... they need it. A very simple repair.
A video demo..... you tube/watch?v=kJ_HIlJULhw
 
  #8  
Old 05-23-18, 03:47 AM
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If motor hums in either wash or spin usually something stuck in water pump. (usually a baby sock or woman's underwear.) Lean washer back against wall and unclip pump form motor DO NOT REMOVE HOSES AT THIS TIME) slide pump off shaft , put washer down and try a spin cycle. If washer motor runs than you will need a pump.
I use a wet dry vacuum to get water out of washer. I also have that machine it is 18 years old and do not plan on changing it anytime.Repaired washers for over 0 years and best washer ever made.
 
  #9  
Old 05-23-18, 01:02 PM
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Are we certain the manual PJmax gave me is the correct one?
It does not look exactly like it.
I have photos of the open console i can post, if that helps identify it.
 
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Old 05-23-18, 04:27 PM
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I did not look at manual as that washer has been used for many years and all are worked on the same way. There will be some differences in some parts, mostly the controls. Did you try what I told you to do?
 
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Old 05-23-18, 06:26 PM
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I double checked that manual. It's not an actual service manual...... it's a training manual but it will cover your machine. It also covers mine.

The transmission-motor-pump come apart in three pieces.
Two snap clips hold the pump onto the motor.
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  #12  
Old 05-23-18, 06:41 PM
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Ok thanks.
I have not had time to do much with it yet.
Followed the instructions and opened the console,found out what the plastic things on the back are. Hinges.
Disconnected the lid switch harness.
Popped the clips holding the cabinet together.
Tomorrow i should be able to start working on it.
 
  #13  
Old 05-23-18, 11:57 PM
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Pump is off the motor.
Started a spin cycle.
Motor ran.
So, i need a pump?
Where do i get one?
 

Last edited by xfrank12; 05-24-18 at 12:29 AM. Reason: made a mistake
  #14  
Old 05-24-18, 12:58 AM
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Parts breakdown....
sears parts direct/11082870120

Part #22 under Brake, Clutch, etc. tab.
OEM drain pump part # WP3363394

Do a search for that part number.
 
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Old 05-24-18, 03:03 AM
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I just did a quick search and found them from 6$ up.
 
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Old 05-24-18, 01:16 PM
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I know.... I saw all kinds of prices from a few dollars to in the $50's.
 
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Old 05-24-18, 03:21 PM
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53.81 from sears.

amazon and ebay are cheaper, but some reviews say they are not real parts.
so, i guess i am spending 53.81
 
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Old 05-24-18, 03:33 PM
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Take pump off about 90% chance you will not be able to get sock out but worth a try.
 
  #19  
Old 05-24-18, 03:42 PM
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I like Sears parts. They have the best online parts breakdowns and visual help.
However.... their prices are not always current. You could check with them first to verify.

There are other reliable retailers that back their parts up....
repair clinicl/Drain-Pump/WP3363394/3296
appliance parts prospump-assembly-wp3363394
 
  #20  
Old 05-24-18, 08:29 PM
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i will check on the sock, or whatever is stuck, and on the other suppliers you mentioned.
but right now, i am trying to get to the dogs you mentioned.
i have the cabinet off, and the auger and agitator off as one unit. i cant separate them.
parts direct diagram shows nothing holding them together, the manual you gave me shows a second cap and my auger looks like it has a tabbed washer at the bottom of the auger.
i figured i would check before i guess and break it.
 
  #21  
Old 05-24-18, 08:39 PM
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also, there is a lot of scum built up on the tub, under the agitator.
i can easily clean it now, but is there a way to clean it without taking it apart?
just wondering if there was an easy way to prevent the scum from building up.
 
  #22  
Old 05-24-18, 09:15 PM
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I left you a video link back in post 7 on the dogs replacement.

Affresh for clothes washers is a good cleaning solution.
They also make an excellent cleaned for dishwashers.
 
  #23  
Old 05-25-18, 03:23 AM
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You don't have to take agitator apart to replace dogs. Just the upper part where the bolt goes in. That agitator is a hard one to come apart. I usually stand on bottom part and pull the top part off. It snaps on but there is no reason to take apart.
 
  #24  
Old 05-25-18, 09:08 AM
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thanks for reminding me about the video. and the cleaning suggestion.

next problem, i took the cabinet off, took the pump out, pump is not clogged and spins freely.
is it possible something jammed the pump and worked itself free when i took the pump out?
is there an easy way to test the pump while i have it out?
would it be worth it to put it all back together and see if it works, before i replace the pump?
 
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Old 05-25-18, 04:38 PM
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Clip pump on motor, either jump lid switch or slip cabinet on and plug switch in and try it. no need to put all together. You did not take basket out did you?
 
  #26  
Old 05-25-18, 06:08 PM
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basket is still on. only took the agitator out.
if i try this and the pump works now, do you think i should still replace the pump?
i mean, how long do the pumps last?
this one is 29 years old.
i am going to do as you said and clip it on and try it, just to make sure it is not something else that is wrong. after all, i have no idea what i am doing. but if the life span of the pump is 20 or 30 years, i should probably replace it while i have it apart.
 
  #27  
Old 05-25-18, 08:20 PM
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got the agitator part, to replace the dogs.
there isnt anything in there. can the dogs disintegrate?
 
  #28  
Old 05-25-18, 08:58 PM
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clipped the pump on, turned it on in spin, pump spun, but the basket moved slowly and made a rubbing noise, like it was hitting something.
that might be just because it is out of alignment, the cabinet is off.
so, pump problem is fixed. maybe the hard water jammed it and it broke loose.

could my problem be the electric motor? is there a way to test it?
 
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Old 05-25-18, 10:17 PM
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If the motor runs it is good. In many years of repair only changed about 4 motors.
Basket turning slowly look in cabinet about 6 inches up from floor. Is there a streak of oil? If there you need a top seal for gearcase and clutch. While there replace drive coupler.
 
  #30  
Old 05-26-18, 11:37 PM
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Not sure what you mean by "streak".
If you mean a narrow strip, no.
I do have , what appears to be ,a thin film of of an oily/greasy substance about 6" wide, starting at the floor, on the two sides of the cabinet.
6" high might be a better description. From the floor, 6" up the cabinet.
Is that what you meant?
 
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Old 05-27-18, 04:30 AM
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Oil around inside of cabinet about 6 inches up is a leaking seal. Seal is a couple of bucks, clutch was about 30 but I haven't googled prices in a long time.
Google Whirlpool gearcase repair and many videos are there on how to do.
What happens is seal leaks and oil goes up shaft into the clutch and than clutch slips. Also throws oil around inside cabinet. Replace drive coupler while apart.
 
  #32  
Old 05-30-18, 07:27 AM
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Did you mean the gearcase seal behind the motor?
Because that one is not leaking, but there is oil all over everything near the seal. So , something is leaking.
 
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Old 05-30-18, 02:32 PM
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Top seal on gearcase. Not the one behind motor.
 
  #34  
Old 06-01-18, 12:31 AM
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gear case is out, top cover is off.
most of the oil is still in the case. about 1/2 to 3/ 4 full.
any chance it is not the top seal?
something is leaking, but i expected to find the gear case empty.

should i try replacing the top seal? see if that fixes it?

if i replace the top seal, clutch, oil, drive coupler and dogs, is there anything else i should replace while i have it apart? is there any other parts i should order?
 
  #35  
Old 06-01-18, 02:29 AM
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Replaced about 100+ gearcases it is the top seal. Don't forget to replace clutch.
 
  #36  
Old 06-15-18, 08:19 PM
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parts were ordered, trickling in, very slowly.

while replacing the brake cam on the drive tube, i saw, what looks like, a twisted, broken gasket.
but, it doesnt appear to be attached to anything, or ever was. only one spot is dirty. i cant find it on the parts diagram.

does anyone know what it is, where i can buy a new one, what does it do and what does it connect to?

photos are, hopefully, attached.
 
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Old 06-15-18, 09:29 PM
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Not a gasket I can only guess it was some sort of sound dampener. Don,t worry about it. Most are like that.
Throw away.
 
  #38  
Old 07-23-18, 11:28 PM
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Been waiting 6 weeks for parts.
Guess it is time to give up. Guess whirlpool has better things to do.
Is there a gasket sealer for the cover on the gearcase that i can buy locally? Like an automotive gasket sealer?
I got the other parts, but i guess gasket sealer has to be hand made in Pakistan and delivered by mule.
 
  #39  
Old 07-23-18, 11:33 PM
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Sears parts direct calls it ,
WP285195 Appliance Silicone Sealant (Red)
 
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Old 07-24-18, 02:52 AM
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Any gasket sealer, maker from auto parts store will work.
 
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