Washer Not Draining Properly
#1
Washer Not Draining Properly
I have a Kenmore top load direct drive washer (made by Whirlpool) model 110.22702100. The machine often doesn't completely drain after spinning the clothes. When the load is finished, the clothes are dripping wet. Sometimes there is a little standing water in the tub, but usually not. Here's what I've done so far:
1) Replaced top seal in transmission cover- Seal was leaking and clutch assembly and inside of cabinet had coating of oil. After replacing seal, I refilled transmission and re-sealed transmission cover.
2) Replaced clutch and drive coupling. I replaced the clutch with a genuine Whirlpool clutch. The machine now spins very well.
3) Replaced pump assembly. After removing the old pump I removed the inlet hose that connects to the tub and didn't see anything in the hose. The old pump looked okay (nothing visible inside).
4) Replaced drain hose. The original drain hose spring a leak, so I replaced it last week.
I didn't remove the outlet hose from the machine to check for any obstruction, although nothing was visible at the pump end.
I'm at a loss as what to check next. Occasionally, a load will complete successfully, but most of the time, the clothes are still wet. Running the machine through a second spin cycle gets rid of the residual water and the clothes have normal dryness.
1) Replaced top seal in transmission cover- Seal was leaking and clutch assembly and inside of cabinet had coating of oil. After replacing seal, I refilled transmission and re-sealed transmission cover.
2) Replaced clutch and drive coupling. I replaced the clutch with a genuine Whirlpool clutch. The machine now spins very well.
3) Replaced pump assembly. After removing the old pump I removed the inlet hose that connects to the tub and didn't see anything in the hose. The old pump looked okay (nothing visible inside).
4) Replaced drain hose. The original drain hose spring a leak, so I replaced it last week.
I didn't remove the outlet hose from the machine to check for any obstruction, although nothing was visible at the pump end.
I'm at a loss as what to check next. Occasionally, a load will complete successfully, but most of the time, the clothes are still wet. Running the machine through a second spin cycle gets rid of the residual water and the clothes have normal dryness.
#2
I can't of think anything you missed. It almost sounds like a timer issue but have never heard of this.
#3
Thanks for the reply, Don. Someday if I feel ambitious, I'll take it apart again and remove the internal drain line and check the entire length for any obstructions. That's about the only thing I can think of that I haven't done to find the problem. I don't think it's the timer, since the tub spins right up until the machine shuts off. My understanding is that when the motor spins in the "spin" direction, the pump automatically gets run.
#4
I think I found my problem. This morning, I watched the operation of the washer while doing a load of clothes. I bypassed the lid switch so I could watch the operation. The washer filled, agitated, pumped out the water, refilled, agitated, drained, but never spun after draining.
I noticed that after the water drained out, at some point the sound changed. I initially thought that it was a change in sound because the water was all pumped out. However, after watching a second load, I realized that the change in sound was when the machine should have been spinning (but it wasn't spinning). I pushed in on the timer to turn off the machine and then pulled it out to start it and it then started spinning.
My machine is new enough (~2001) that it has the neutral drain feature. My understanding is that the motor needs to stop after draining so that when it starts up again it will be in spin mode. As mentioned, I don't recall hearing the motor stop between drain & spin modes. Is it possible that the timer is bad, not stopping the motor after the drain mode is finished?
I noticed that after the water drained out, at some point the sound changed. I initially thought that it was a change in sound because the water was all pumped out. However, after watching a second load, I realized that the change in sound was when the machine should have been spinning (but it wasn't spinning). I pushed in on the timer to turn off the machine and then pulled it out to start it and it then started spinning.
My machine is new enough (~2001) that it has the neutral drain feature. My understanding is that the motor needs to stop after draining so that when it starts up again it will be in spin mode. As mentioned, I don't recall hearing the motor stop between drain & spin modes. Is it possible that the timer is bad, not stopping the motor after the drain mode is finished?
#5
The washer must pause between drain and spin. It is a 30 to a minute pause. The tech sheet should show the cycles. It is the side with the black lines on it. Each line is a operation and time cycle.
#6
Don, you're right, it's the timer that's bad. I watched a third load run yesterday and the motor definitely did not stop in between the drain and spin modes. I'm not sure if I'll buy a new timer or just live with it the way it is (re-running the spin cycle). At least I now know what the root cause is. Thanks for your help.
#8
The drain/spin pause on my Whirlpool is not more than 10 seconds. I don't think that's a contact issue. More like a worn lobe issue. The contact is closed since the motor is draining. The lobe opens the motor contact.
#9
Don, I have the sheet with the schematic and timer chart that was in the control area. Do you know if the sequence of the columns in the timer chart typically correspond with the sequence of the contacts in the switch assembly? If they do, then I would have some idea of which switch to check.
I'm assuming that, since the motor doesn't turn off (pause) between the drain & spin cycles, one of the switches is "welded" closed. Does this sound reasonable? If I know which switch to check, I can verify that the switch is indeed "closed" and never opens like it's supposed to.
It looks like the timer would be relatively easy to take apart to get the switch assembly out. However, I don't know if there are springs or whatever in there that are going to come flying out when I open it up. Since the machine is operable with the timer the way it is now, I'm apprehensive about taking the timer apart and possibly ruining it, unless you say that most are easy to reassemble.
I'm assuming that, since the motor doesn't turn off (pause) between the drain & spin cycles, one of the switches is "welded" closed. Does this sound reasonable? If I know which switch to check, I can verify that the switch is indeed "closed" and never opens like it's supposed to.
It looks like the timer would be relatively easy to take apart to get the switch assembly out. However, I don't know if there are springs or whatever in there that are going to come flying out when I open it up. Since the machine is operable with the timer the way it is now, I'm apprehensive about taking the timer apart and possibly ruining it, unless you say that most are easy to reassemble.
#10
Pete, I was thinking that the contacts might be welded closed, but your theory also sounds very plausible. If it is a worn lobe, do you know if it's possible to "build it back up" using epoxy or some similar material?
#11
Sometimes the contact can be bent to ride differently on the lobe.
What is the part number of that tech sheet ?
What is the part number of that tech sheet ?
#13
I have the sheet with the schematic and timer chart that was in the control area.
#14
Pete, I don't see any Wxxxx number, only the number I gave you and it lists some part numbers for components (timer, water valves, switches, etc.). The number I gave you on the sheet (upper right hand corner) looks like the following:
Part No.
3955 195
REV REL
Part No.
3955 195
REV REL
#15
If you can post a closeup of the timing chart I can tell you what contact it is. No online tech sheet for it and I don't have access to my files right now.