Electrolux fridge only freezing at 27 degrees F.


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Old 02-16-19, 07:58 AM
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Electrolux fridge only freezing at 27 degrees F.

Hey guys, I think something is wrong with my fridge. I hadn't noticed it because it was still making ice and since ice is hard, you just assume things are "freezing" normally. But when we ate our ice cream last night, it was nasty. The texture was like it had been put in a blender. I look at the temperature and the normal side says 40 degrees and the freezer side says 27 degrees. I checked the ice box and even though they're hard, you can see they're kinda wet.

I found some ice build-up on the wall under the light. I'm not sure if this is a telltale sign of anything, but here's a picture just in case. I have already removed the ice, just want to show you the location. Any advice?
 
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Old 02-16-19, 10:49 AM
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Open it up and this is what I see....
 
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Old 02-16-19, 11:04 AM
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Good move opening the evaporator cover. Unfortunately it looks like your fridge has a leak and is low on refrigerant. The ice/frost forming at the connection end of the coil is the classic indicator of low refrigerant. I'm guessing the compressor pretty much runs all the time.
 
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Old 02-16-19, 11:49 AM
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I'm not sure if I know what a compressor running sounds like. Nothing has been out of the ordinary that would make me go.. "what's that sound?" But is this something I can DIY? Can you tell me what to purchase and replace?

The brand is Electrolux Icon, and inside the fridge wall, I see a model # E23CS78EPS0.
 
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Old 02-16-19, 01:18 PM
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How old is the fridge ?
A leak is rarely fixable in those fridges.

You can't tell when the compressor is running ??
It's typically the compressor and a condenser fan. It doesn't have to sound different.... just be running.
 
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Old 02-16-19, 04:38 PM
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I think it's 13 yrs old. When you say leak, should I see leaks at the bottom of the fridge though? Because there are no leaks. Unless it leaks then evaporates?
 
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Old 02-16-19, 06:34 PM
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Is it a good sign that after I melted the ice and put everything back, the thermostat is now back down? It's around 4 degrees now, which is how we like it when it was functioning fine. Or, will the build up re-occur?

UPDATE
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Nevermind... it's back to 32 degrees.
 
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Old 02-16-19, 06:43 PM
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Only time will tell. Keep an eye on it.
Also make sure the condenser coils and fan are clean underneath the unit.
That is something that should be done annually.

By leak.... I mean refrigerant. You can't see it leak as it comes out as a gas.
 
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Old 02-16-19, 11:51 PM
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PJMAX, anything I can do to confirm if I have a refrigerant leak issue? You're saying the compressor should be on all the time because of the leak? But what if I'm not hearing it? It's pretty normal and quiet.

Are there any other troubleshoots I should check that may cause the freezer to be warmer? BTW, the refrigerator side is normal, it keeps our food and drinks cold as usual. Is it possible for a refrigerant leak to only affect the freezer side?

HD is have a president's day sale, and I just might get a new fridge, but I just want to make sure there isn't an easy fix I'm missing.
 
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Old 02-17-19, 09:40 AM
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Coil partially frosted..... compressor running almost non stop,..... not enough cooling are all indications of a low charge. Did you make sure it was clean underneath ?
 
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Old 02-17-19, 01:14 PM
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So here is how it's looking in the back. I vacuumed and blew out some dust, but it didn't seem like there was so much dust/debris that would make me think it caused the problem.

1. Is the blue tube the refrigerant?
2. When I opened the access panel, the fan was running. Is the fan suppose to run all the time? Or, is that an indication I am having a leak?
 
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Old 02-18-19, 06:09 AM
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Frost free refrigerators have a defrost element which is a small heater amidst the (hidden) inside cooling coils (not exposed underneath). There is a timer that turns on the element to melt ice off of the inside coils. The element timing is not exact and it is possible for more ice to form than is melted off during the defrost time interval. Minimizing door open time and covering food including in the main compartment will reduce ice buildup inside.

Once in awhile the defrost stops working (or worse, is stuck on continuously also seemingly causing failure to cool)..

The blue tube might be the drain for the water released by the defrost action.

Dust on the coils under the refrigerator will cause the machinery to run longer to achieve the desired temperature inside.

The fan may or may not run on the exact timing that the compressor runs but normally there should be time intervals when everything shuts off.

One compressor cooling both the refrigerator main compartment and the freezer compartment needs adjustment so each compartment gets to its desired temperature. There should be a louver,, sometimes hidden and controlled with a knob, that directs more or less cold air to each compartment.

Room temperature can change the balance of getting both the main compartment and the freezer at the right temperature. You will need to use trial and error to get the louver adjusted right.
 
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Old 02-18-19, 06:59 AM
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That blue 1/4" line is the water feed to the icemaker. With most fridges.... the fan cycles with the thermostat so that the compressor, condenser fan and evaporator fan are all controlled together. It is possible your evaporator fans runs all the time but should shut off during defrost.

Based on your inside coil picture.... the defrost system is working.
 
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Old 02-18-19, 01:13 PM
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Well, we've always thought about a second chest freezer for the garage. That could buy us some time, and will still serve a purpose even if we do end up buying a new fridge. But if I do have a refrigerant leak, does that mean that eventually, the non-freezer side will also start to warm? Feels like such a waste to toss it out now.
 
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Old 02-18-19, 02:26 PM
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Unfortunately..... if it's a leak the entire box will get warm.
 
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Old 02-19-19, 09:24 AM
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So I realized something..... When I unplugged the fridge to do some troubleshooting and cleaning, the ice started to melt, so I dumped the whole bin. Ever since I put the bin back and turned on the fridge again, I realize the ice maker isn't making any more ice. I probably didn't notice it because we hardly use the ice and the bin is always full, but I take it the ice maker probably stopped working long before I noticed it? Because of the warm temperature?
 
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Old 02-19-19, 05:31 PM
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There is a harvesting thermostat embedded in the ice tray. It's usually around 15 degrees. It monitors the temperature of the ice mold and when the mold temp gets to 15 degrees.... it knows the ice is frozen and harvests it.
 
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Old 02-20-19, 10:10 AM
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Well, we've decided to get a new one since this fridge is approx 13-16 yrs old. Hopefully, you guys don't mind me asking more detailed questions in the future. I plan to put it in the garage and let it be my guinea pig to try to fix and learn. Maybe it'll be a spare in the garage if I can fix it. That way, when my new one acts up, maybe I'll develop a better understanding of how fridges work.

In looking at all these newer models, should I avoid the ones with extra showcase doors, or door in door? Wouldn't that just be another seal you have to worry about and maintain to make sure air doesn't get in?
 
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Old 02-20-19, 12:35 PM
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If I'm asked for an opinion on fridge buying..... I say look for mechanical controls. Energy efficiency in these new fridges comes with a cost. Yes..... they save energy but they cost much more to fix. All these electronic controls are future problems.
 
 

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