Whirlpool washer run doesn't spin

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  #1  
Old 04-24-19, 08:44 PM
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Whirlpool washer tub doesn't spin

i have a whirlpool model lsn2000pw3 washer that doesn't spin consistently at the rinse cycle and leaves clothes soaking wet.

I have checked the coupler and there was nothing wrong with with it. I replaced the ring that was inside the clutch assembly and that also didn't seem to fix the problem.

I can see the clutch assembly is spinning but the basket does not. Sometimes if I open and close the lid enough times it will begin to spin, but that is hit or miss.

Any ideas on what I should look at next?
 
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Old 04-25-19, 03:46 AM
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Does it sound like it should be spinning? Your model look inside cabinet about 6 inches up, Is there a streak of oil? It there you need to replace seal in transmission and clutch. You could clean clutch with brake clean but I always just replace the whole clutch. Google Whirlpool transmission repair and many videos on how to rebuild transmission.
 
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Old 04-25-19, 09:10 AM
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It appears that there is oil on the inside of the cabinet and on the clutch assembly. I would assume this means I need to rebuild or replace the transmission?

Is this the kit I am looking for? Not sure why they named it "drain cup".

https://www.whirlpoolparts.com/PartD...ber=LSN2000PW3

Do I need to use the gear oil Whirlpool sells, or can I use something else? I am assuming with as much as is on the inside of the walls, I will need to replace all or a significant portion of it.

I am confused if the transmission is bad why is the drive shaft still turning? The washer seems to have no issues agitating.

Attached are images of what looks like oil on the cabinet and the clutch assembly.
 
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Old 04-25-19, 09:20 AM
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I had a similar problem with my Kenmore (Whirlpool) washer last year. The inside of the cabinet was wet with oil and it got inside the clutch causing it to slip. What you need is the Whirlpool Transmission Top Case Seal. The seal keeps the oil from getting flung out of the transmission. I ordered mine from eBay (link below).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-T...item2111fc20c0

After replacing the seal, but before I re-assembled the transmission cover, I filled the transmission with 90-weight gear oil (bought at Walmart).
 
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Old 04-25-19, 09:34 AM
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So did you just clean the inside of the clutch assembly and the clutch band with brake cleaner to remove the oil as well as refilling the transmission?

Does this seal somehow keep the oil from coming out of the transmission or just keep it from flinging all over? If the latter, it seems that I would still have the issue of why the oil left the transmission in the first place...
 
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Old 04-25-19, 10:05 AM
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I replaced the clutch, since it was pretty worn (almost 20 years old). If your clutch is in good condition, you could try cleaning it with brake cleaner. Replacing the top seal should prevent the oil from coming out via the shaft. With no oil coming out, it won't get flung around by the shaft when agitating or spinning. I forgot to mention, you'll also have to buy some RTV sealant for re-assembling the transmission cover.
 
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Old 04-25-19, 11:24 AM
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Ok. That makes sense. Thanks for the reply. I will probably rebuild the transmission at the same time since it is pretty cheap to do and I will have it open anyway.
 
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Old 04-25-19, 11:30 AM
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You replaced clutch pads but did not fix cause. You could try to clean clutch but at amazon clutch is 14.50 $. I would not bother trying to clean. Whole repair less than 30$
 
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Old 04-25-19, 12:55 PM
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Thanks. I have at this point ordered:

* a new clutch
* a new transmission seal
* a transmission kit

They should arrive by Saturday so I can try to get this done this weekend.

At this point, are you guys thinking that the transmission itself is ok since I can sometimes get it to spin, and that the likely problem is the oil that leaked and caused the clutch band to slip in the clutch and therefore the tub brake is not disengaging?

If so, the process would be:

1) Replace seal on transmission
2) [Optional?] rebuild transmission
3) Refill with gear oil
4) Use RVT to seal the transmission cover
5) Replace or clean clutch and clutch band

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old 04-25-19, 01:49 PM
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That sounds like it. As a repair person not cost efficient to rebuild trans. we just replaced. Close to 300$ or more.
 
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Old 04-25-19, 02:10 PM
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Agreed. However; for me the $120 or so saved is worth the hour of work vs buying a new one online (see the transmission for ~$160 or so online).

Is it your opinion that rebuilding the transmission is worth the time here since I have to open it up anyway or would you just leave it and fill with oil and see if it works?
 
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Old 04-25-19, 03:47 PM
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When I had my transmission cover off, I inspected the parts and they all looked good (no broken or chipped teeth, no visible signs of wear). In my case, I suspected that my transmission was in good condition, other than the leaky seal, so I didn't order any transmission parts other than the seal.

After replacing the transmission seal and clutch in my machine, I found that the machine still wouldn't spin the clothes after the final rinse. To make a long story short, I found that the problem was the timer. Most Whirlpool washers have what is known as a "Neutral Drain". What this means is that the machine drains and pumps the water out without spinning the tub (transmission is in neutral). The motor turns off for a few seconds, then starts up again. The tub should now spin.

The problem with my timer is that it's not stopping the motor between the drain & spin cycles. Since the motor isn't stopping, the transmission remains in neutral and never goes into the spin cycle. Rather than pay for a new timer, I just re-run the spin cycle after the machine turns off. The new clutch really makes the tub spin up quickly, much faster than it was with the old, slipping clutch.
 
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Old 04-25-19, 05:14 PM
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Replace the seal and check for any broken teeth. You should be good for another 10 years.
 
  #14  
Old 04-28-19, 06:29 AM
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I put the transmission back together after spending what seems forever scraping the old gasket seal off. Good news is it spins. Bad news is it spins during draining (after a pause). I'm assuming something is still wrong with the transmission.

I Am assuming I messed something up when I was checking everything out. I didn't see anything wrong so I didn't install the new neutral drain assembly I had purchased.

Don't really want to spend the time scraping off the new seal again. I see in some videos they didn't appear to put new sealant. I'm assuming that is a bad idea?
 

Last edited by jvanhill; 04-28-19 at 06:45 AM.
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Old 04-28-19, 07:07 AM
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Did your washer spin while draining before? How old is your washer? The reason I ask is that the "neutral drain" feature was implemented by Whirlpool some years after they came out with their direct drive washer. In other words, not all Whirlpool washers have this feature, just the later ones. That said, it seems like I've had my washer at least 15 years, and it has the feature, so we're talking "really old".
 
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Old 04-28-19, 07:11 AM
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We bought it around 2005. Whirlpool parts .com said the neutral drain pack was what was needed for my machine... I assumed it was right.

Now that I'm running a full cycle the tub is not spinning during the drain in the wash cycle. It spun when I just ran the rinse and then high spin cycle. Maybe that is what it is supposed to do?

Also not sure if it spun before. I think it has been broke for quite some time and I never really paid attention to be honest.
 
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Old 04-28-19, 07:25 AM
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Oh Mercy. Let it run the full cycle instead of just going directly to rinse and spin and it no longer spins during drain in the rinse cycle. Perhaps it needed the full cycle to reset the transmission?
 
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Old 04-28-19, 07:28 AM
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And now it doesn't spin during high spin again...
 
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Old 04-28-19, 09:36 AM
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what your washer doe in spin after wash is first it drains. Pause than spin and drain. If no pause than Between drain and spin timer. If a spins during first drain than transmission. You don't have to wait out the whole cycles to check. Put washer id wash, add some water, should be agitating now, stop washer put timer in drain and spin and it should start draining, Lift lid should stop, after to stops put lid down and should drain and spin.
 
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Old 04-28-19, 09:59 AM
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Thanks for the reply.

What I saw was a few different behaviors but always a pause.

I pulled the transmission apart again and put the neutral drain pack in. I didn't see anything wrong with the old parts but did notice when I was putting the large white gear on that the lever with the spring on it would tend to pop out of place so that the pin was no longer in the hole in the plate. So I was very careful putting it back together so that I'm reasonably sure it stayed in place. Not sure if that being out could have caused that behavior but it's all I got to go on for now.

Waiting an hour for the rtv to setup before tightening the cover and then will wait another hour and put it back in and see if the issue is resolved.
 
  #21  
Old 04-28-19, 12:54 PM
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Installing the neutral drain pack didn't resolve the issue. Drain is still spinning. Uploaded the following video that shows rinse cycle to spin cycle.

https://youtu.be/TXWmMRyQBZY
 
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Old 04-29-19, 04:48 AM
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Around the 2:20 to 2:30 mark I heard it start to drain. As soon as you opened the lid it was the neutral stop and than it went to drain and spin. You are over thinking this.
 
  #23  
Old 04-29-19, 05:15 AM
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Maybe I'm confused. Is it supposed to spin while it drains? I thought it was supposed to not spin while it drains. You're correct in probably over thinking this.

Or are you saying it spun because I opened the lid?


Update: ran through a cycle without opening the lid during drain and it remained in neutral throughout the drain. So I guess opening the lid during drain takes it out of neutral and that is expected behavior?
 

Last edited by jvanhill; 04-29-19 at 05:55 AM.
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Old 04-29-19, 07:43 AM
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Opening the lid stops the motor, which will make the transmission switch from neutral drain to spin mode. If you want to see what is really happening, you would need to leave the lid open and stick something in the lid switch to make the machine think the lid is closed. Then it should run through a "normal" cycle without you interrupting it by opening the lid.
 
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Old 04-29-19, 08:44 AM
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Thanks for the response and all the help. It appears that the washer is working as it should then.

Unfortunately my washers lid switch is activated by a lever built into the lid so you can't take fake out the switch without taking the lid off. I was too curious for my own good it seems.
 
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