Kenmore oven - 790.47899600 - stopped heating.

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  #1  
Old 05-05-19, 03:51 PM
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Kenmore oven - 790.47899600 - stopped heating.

Hi,

I had posted earlier about not being able to get this oven free from it's cabinet - that issue is solved. :-)

It won't heat. I bypassed the thermal fuse to test it, still wouldn't heat.

Then I noticed that it was clicking a lot at the control panel. In fact, putting the inside light on and off, seemed to be triggering the oven to go on and off. It's as though a relay isn't working properly.

So, then it started heating - but not fully.

It cycles quickly between what seems to be heating from the bottom, then the top, then the back - not sure if id did that before. The very short video link below shows that. My daughter clicking dishes aside, you can hear the oven clicking.

Control board issue maybe?
Thanks!

Video of problem
 

Last edited by PJmax; 05-06-19 at 12:24 PM. Reason: changed link display.
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Old 05-06-19, 12:21 PM
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How old is this Frigidaire built oven ?
Convection and bake may use various elements.
Try it on broil. That uses one dedicated element. See if that works normally.

There should be a tech sheet attached to the inside of the unit. That will help in the diagnosing of the problem.
 
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Old 05-06-19, 02:03 PM
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Hi,

thanks for the reply.

The label on the oven says November 2006. I tried the Broil setting - that's not heating either. :-)

Yes, there is a pouch with some paperwork.

Hugh
 
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Old 05-06-19, 02:07 PM
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Based on past experiences with GE and Frigidaire ovens...... you will need to pull out the control board to inspect it for bad solder and burned wiring connections.
 
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Old 05-06-19, 04:07 PM
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Interestingly, I was unable to pull the main power connector off of the board. I felt any more pressure would possibly crack the board, and ended up cutting the wires. (maybe there's a locking tab - but I can't see one)

The side of the block is scorched, along with a component. Would I be correct in saying this is burnt out?

 
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Old 05-06-19, 04:20 PM
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That is a resistor. Possibly for the display section power supply. Most power connectors are just pushed on. You need to get to the back of the board.
 
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Old 05-06-19, 04:54 PM
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Got it apart, somewhat. It's 2 boards, linked together (hope I didn't break any connections)

I can't see well between them, but the back surface in the photo looks ok, to my untrained eye that is. :-)



 
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Old 05-06-19, 06:22 PM
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Good pictures. I didn't know that uses the dual boards piggybacked. Do the boards come apart ? I can't get the proper view of the board connections to see if they just snap apart. We need to see the board under the relays. That would be between the two boards in the area where that resistor is burned.

Tech sheet: 318046248...... Wiring diagram
 

Last edited by PJmax; 05-06-19 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 05-06-19, 08:57 PM
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Ha ha, yeah, photos should be ok - I'm a photographer. (these are iphone pics though)

Great call - with a little wiggling, the boards parted. There are about a dozen long pins in he bottom board that run into a connector block in the top board.

I looked at both surfaces - nothing jumps out. (pics below)

Maybe I should bite the bullet and buy a new control board. My only worry is that it's some other issue.

Hugh



 
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Old 05-06-19, 09:24 PM
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You're limited to 10mb of storage so these pics will eat that right up. When we're done I'll re-size them for you to board max displayed size. The board displays roughly 600x600 but will store very large pic and resize them.

Looking at the back of the relay board I can see questionable connections. They may or may not be the problem. I circled them in red. That burned resistor would need to be replaced. I repair these boards and what I do is to resolder the entire area in the blue box and those misc circled red ones. I've seen these boards really burned. Yours is not but it starts with crappy solder joints and gets worse quickly. You can save the picture below and open it on your system. It will be full size.

Many don't want to operate on their control board. I can understand that. Your problem sounds like it is the control board and the only way to confirm it without trying a new one is to check the voltage on the bake and broil elements during operation. It can be done from the connections at the control board.

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Check the terminals on the wires that connect to the bottom left 6 terminals.
 
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