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MAYTAG 747G LDE 410 Dryer Stopped heating. Opened it up and found burned wire

MAYTAG 747G LDE 410 Dryer Stopped heating. Opened it up and found burned wire

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  #1  
Old 05-20-19, 09:01 AM
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MAYTAG 747G LDE 410 Dryer Stopped heating. Opened it up and found burned wire

The black power wire was burned near the connector to the heating element, which severed it. I'm wondering what caused this. Does it mean it was a loose connection ? How do I fix this ? Do I need to get a new wire or simply cut or strip off the burned portion and then crimp a new connector to it (if there's enough excess wire to reach and make a new connection) ?


These are before and after pictures. Before was in December of 2017. After is now in May 2019.

More pictures.....https://imgur.com/gallery/yByEfnI
Name:  dryer.jpg
Views: 65
Size:  55.0 KB

In December of 2017, there was no heat and discovered the heating element coil was broken. Replaced it. The BEFORE pictures were taken (before replacing heating element) as reference so I would know how it should look to put it back together correctly.


The AFTER pictures are what I've just taken when opening up my dryer in May 2019 (when experiencing no heat) to discover this broken burned off power wire.


Is this a symptom of something else or simply just a burned wire ? And where do I get another wire to replace it ? Do they sell the wire as is in same length with connections so I can simply replace?

Also, notice in the BEFORE and AFTER, how the white top label on the round thermostat?fuse? on heating element is no longer clean but now has what appear to be burn marks? What happened ?
 

Last edited by Xyberfaust; 05-20-19 at 09:24 AM. Reason: corrected misspelled word
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  #2  
Old 05-20-19, 09:21 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

I imported one picture as the problem is fairly common. The nut on the element was loose and allowed the wire and terminal to burn due to a poor connection. There may be enough wire where you can crimp on a new terminal. The nuts will need to be well cleaned or replaced.

The label may have been discolored just by the heat generated within the dryer or the heat from that thermostat.
 
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  #3  
Old 05-20-19, 11:01 AM
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Thank you so much.

I still have my old heating element nearby, so I can just use the nuts from that one as replacements.

I think there is enough of the wire to crimp on a new terminal. Though I need the right tools for that and the right terminal replacement. I'm guessing I can take off the burnt terminal end (as reference) in addition to bringing the info on the black wire: MAYTAG 14 AWG 600V 105C (as a size determiner for new terminal), to Home Depot for a new correct terminal ? Do you think I need a special crimp tool or will a cheap crimping tool do? The only experience I have with crimping was a very brief stint as a satellite/cable installer (assistant) back in 2004. I have no idea where those two basic tools are now (to strip wire and crimp).

I'm guessing they don't sell that black wire in the exact same length with terminals on each end? I can find places on the net that sell it in long expensive rolls, but not as is like this white wire (that can be seen in my pics): https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...Number=y304693

Or maybe the crimping is best bet (I just hope I don't screw it up to the point where I have to keep splicing off more and more to try again and eventually run out of excess to reach terminal connection point).
 
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Old 05-20-19, 11:22 AM
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If you were to use an insulated crimp it would be blue. Probably a 1/4" or #10 ring crimp. The crimp needs to well crimped or it will create a loose connection. Typically we'd use non insulated crimps for that application. If you have a local hardware store..... check there first for individual crimps.

In most instances there is extra wire to make it reach.
 
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Old 05-20-19, 12:45 PM
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A lot of times the nut is welded to the screw. If that is the case if you have enough of the threads left to put nut and wire on top of old nut that should work.. Old nuts from old unit will be fine.
 
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  #6  
Old 05-21-19, 03:29 AM
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Would this strip and crimp tool be fine? And these connectors (blue-ring ones most likely) ?

https://imgur.com/a/z8MEcxa
 
  #7  
Old 05-21-19, 04:02 AM
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I have one like that.but I prefer These
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Woods-Multi-Tool/50331069
Little more expensive but work better.
 
  #8  
Old 05-22-19, 10:19 AM
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Bought that $5 kit at Wal-Mart and got it done. Wire-brushed the burnt bottom nut for better contact and used nut from old heating element for top. Let me know if anything looks off. Was able to get a really good crimp. In order to strip the wire, had to twist the tool around to make a better circular cut (that's what I did back in 2004 when I stripped cable wire to install satellite internet/tv to homes).

Is that too much exposed brushing (copper coming out of insulated area) ?

https://imgur.com/a/tEakZ0Z
Name:  crimp.jpg
Views: 26
Size:  8.8 KB
 

Last edited by PJmax; 05-22-19 at 04:08 PM. Reason: added linked picture
  #9  
Old 05-22-19, 12:56 PM
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That's a little more wire sticking through the crimped area than I would like to see. While it won't hurt anything, it could interfere with the nut when you tighten it. You want the nut making good contact with the terminal itself (nut flat on terminal surface). If the wire sticks out too much, half of the nut will be on the terminal, while the other half of the nut will contact the wire and the pressure will be uneven between the two sides of the nut. If you have a soldering iron or gun, I like to solder the wire to the terminal after crimping. This ensures that you have a good electrical connection between the wire and the terminal. If you don't have a soldering iron, don't bother, as it's just a nice "extra".
 
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Old 05-22-19, 03:20 PM
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Cool. Thank you. I figured it might be a little too much, looked a bit unusual, but was trying to think what the harm could be. I got it on there pretty tight (since it not being tight enough seems to be what got it burned off in the first place). I got it so tight that I was starting to soften the edges of the nut when I'd try to turn some more.

Got drier back together, plugged it in, and turned on drier for a couple of minutes and there was heat. I can finally clean my clothes now.

Thank you, all of you. I really appreciate what you do.
 
  #11  
Old 05-22-19, 04:10 PM
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That looks fine. After you make a crimp..... hold the crimp with pliers. Try moving the wire from the insulation end. If you see any strands move.... the crimp is not tight.
 
  #12  
Old 05-22-19, 11:11 PM
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While I didn't hold the crimp with pliers, I pulled with both hands to ensure it was tight and it was. It's hard to tell from the pictures with the angle I took them (you really can't tell from the picture at all. If you ask me, it looks like it's loose from the picture), but rest assured it's definitely a tight crimp. If anything I would worry that it's too tight because I really dug in on the squeeze.

(I actually almost took a picture of it straight on, to show the inside part of it better, but I'm really self-conscious about photographing my fingers because I don't want to post my fingerprints on the internet, due to pictures being so magnifying and clear these days).

I'm grateful to have you here because I wouldn't know what to do otherwise. And I don't have the money to pay someone. I also like doing/fixing things on my own if possible. I just need expertise-guidance cause I had no one to teach me these things.

Thank you.
 
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