Jenn Air JDS9860AAP buzzing relay

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Old 12-08-19, 06:31 PM
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Jenn Air JDS9860AAP buzzing relay

So I had a buzzing relay (T9ap5d52-24) along with heating slowly a few weeks ago so I ordered another one and put it in. The first time I did this it worked like a charm and has been going strong for about 6 years, but unfortunately, this time around the buzzing came back along with the stove heating very slowly again. I have the correct voltage coming in the stove and checked the bake element and broil element for continuity and correct ohms and all checked out. It's getting 40 Volts from the control board. This morning I replaced the control board in the front and still the same buzzing relay and slow to heat. Are the heating elements supposed to be 120 volts when they're on or 240 volts? Thanks.

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Last edited by PJmax; 12-08-19 at 11:44 PM. Reason: imported picture from link
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Old 12-08-19, 08:26 PM
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Below is a service manual for this unit
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzI...hyMUpveFE/view

The best I could do for a wiring diagram is go to the Sears Parts site. They have a wiring diagram that you can open in a new tab and get a decent view.

The elements should have 240 volts across them when on.

You said you had the correct voltage.
Did you check it at the terminal strip in the unit?
Did you check for the 240 volts and not just two 120's?
Did you check it with the elements off and the elements on?
 
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Old 12-09-19, 12:18 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

Sears does have some wiring diagrams for your unit but they aren't complete or are originals.
That don't have that line side break relay shown.

That relay is 24vDC and it should appear on the black wires.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 12-16-19 at 12:24 PM. Reason: corrected wire colors
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Old 12-09-19, 04:24 AM
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Thanks for the replies- Terminal was checked and I'm getting 120 across black and white and red and white and 240 across red and black. I checked the voltage both off and on the elements and had the same 120 volts. Elements were checked as well for continuity and correct ohms. I have a video in the link below if it helps at all.

https://youtu.be/_kQhRF4G2iA
 
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Old 12-09-19, 10:16 PM
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Your elements have two lines to them...... L1 and L2. Originally one of the lines was always hot and the second line was switched. That left power (120v) on the element at all times. That wasn't a problem until the element had a short. That relay was installed after original design and production. It's called a dual line break.

The single red wire is the L source TO the relay.
The double red wires are the switched source TO the elements.
When either element is required...... that relay turns on.
That relay has a coil spec of 24VDC. That means you should measure 24vDC on the black wires when the relay should be active.
DO NOT measure from either the black to the reds.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 12-16-19 at 12:25 PM. Reason: correct wiring colors
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Old 12-16-19, 06:04 AM
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Thanks PJMax

I was told to measure for 24VDC at the coil (two black wires) is that not correct? I'm currently getting 17.5 volts DC from them with a surge to around 24V when it switches between the top and bottom elements. I put a brand new control board in over the weekend and I'm still getting buzzing from that relay. I have a new relay (3rd one) to try tonight with the brand new control board. I checked all wiring and everything is fine. We're having people over for Christmas so I have to get this fixed or get a new stove. I have a link below to another thread where people are telling me to use the two black wires if you would like to take a look. Thanks for your help!

https://www.applianceblog.com/mainfo...-2#post-379003
 
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Old 12-16-19, 07:01 AM
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I cannot find a wiring diagram with a DLB using this model number anywhere so I assume it is a later add on that was never documented correctly.
Could be that it was also not implemented correctly as I see many folks with problems with it.

The DLB is a safety device for dummies.
For those who try to replace an element without unplugging the stove,
For those who see some bubbling on an element and cannot resist the urge to touch it.
So as long as you are not a dummy I cannot see a problem.

Below is what I would do but I am not recommending you do it.
I would eliminate it.
If the double red can reach to where the single red starts and the connector is the same then I would connect the double red there. It is a good idea to clean the connector before attaching it and make sure it is tight.
If that is not possible then I would connect the three reds together with a wire nut. use the ceramic type as they tolerate more heat.
Make sure that it is a good connection.
Then I would also disconnect the wires that power the relay from the board,
 
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Old 12-16-19, 12:28 PM
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The DLB is a safety device for dummies.
Be that at is it may...... we cannot advise the customer to remove a safety device from an appliance.

My apologies..... relay power is on two black wires. I didn't see the second black wire in the picture.
 
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Old 12-18-19, 09:56 AM
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Thanks for your help everyone. New relay did the trick after putting in that new board. The old board fried the two new relays that I put in previously.
 
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Old 12-18-19, 05:55 PM
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Good job. Thanks for letting us know the outcome.
 
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