Refrigerator thermostat
#1
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Refrigerator thermostat
My Whirlpool fridge (2004) has been acting up. Initially, it shut off and did not come back on- so we lost some food. The compressor seemed ok so I replaced the thermostat with a $15 one. Since then it's been cooling but I have noticed it will occasionally come on for 1 second and shut off. I also suspect its cycling too often. I notice it cycles on almost every time I open the door even if the temp inside is good. I have also noticed the compressor is getting a little bit noisy when it cycles off- there is some noticeable vibration. I'm thinking it could be the new thermostat causing all this- but not positive. Any ideas? Thank You!
#2
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A model number might be useful.
Also hat thermostat did you use?
Unless the new thermostat is defective it should not be doing this.
This of coarse depends on the thermostat being the correct part.
It does not sound like you purchased an OEM part.
Sounds like the one you got may be too sensitive.
The end of the capillary must be in the same position as the old one.
Also if the old one had the end of it's capillary in a plastic tube the new one should also have this.
Also hat thermostat did you use?
Unless the new thermostat is defective it should not be doing this.
This of coarse depends on the thermostat being the correct part.
It does not sound like you purchased an OEM part.
Sounds like the one you got may be too sensitive.
The end of the capillary must be in the same position as the old one.
Also if the old one had the end of it's capillary in a plastic tube the new one should also have this.
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Local supply house provided the new stat. I took the old one in to them. I did make sure to put the cap tube in the sleeve and install the same way the original was. Here is the model and parts https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairH...ng-ED5KVEXVB00
thanks!
thanks!
#4
The bulb on the cap tube needs to see a representative temperature of the space.
It cannot see the incoming air when the door is opened.
It cannot see the incoming air when the door is opened.
#5
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The below is just my thoughts and I do not have any thermostat specs to back it up.
You may have a defective thermostat.
I think there is a null area is a thermostat.
So lets say you set it at 40 it may close at 42 and open at 38.
But what happens if it closes at 40.1 and opens at 40.2 then you would get frequent cycling.
Again the above is just conjecture on my part.
The plastic tubing is supposed to even out the cycling even more but must cover the end of the capillary, I think.
As to it going on for a for a second I do not know what that is but may be thermostat related.
Usually quick cycling is due to compressor/starter (overheating) problems but you did not say that it keeps doing this so I doubt that is the problem.
You may have a defective thermostat.
I think there is a null area is a thermostat.
So lets say you set it at 40 it may close at 42 and open at 38.
But what happens if it closes at 40.1 and opens at 40.2 then you would get frequent cycling.
Again the above is just conjecture on my part.
The plastic tubing is supposed to even out the cycling even more but must cover the end of the capillary, I think.
As to it going on for a for a second I do not know what that is but may be thermostat related.
Usually quick cycling is due to compressor/starter (overheating) problems but you did not say that it keeps doing this so I doubt that is the problem.
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Paying more attention to the fridge- it cycles on and off every 2-3 minutes. I wonder about the overload? Maybe its defective and shutting the compressor down too soon? But in this case maybe the compressor would be held out longer- like 20 minutes. I'm considering changing out the start components and see what that does for it. If this does not cause a change- I'm going back to the thermostat as the culprit.
#7
Turn the stat to maximum cooling temperature.
That should keep the compressor energized. See if it short cycles now.
That should keep the compressor energized. See if it short cycles now.