Kenmore "Brown Top" Dryer wiring diagram


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Old 04-22-20, 12:47 PM
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Kenmore "Brown Top" Dryer wiring diagram

Hi All,
I'm looking for a Kenmore Dryer 110.86873100 wiring diagram. I'd appreciate a copy. The dryer is not getting hot and I've checked the likely culprits but haven't yet found the problem. I'd like to look over the wiring diagram to see if their is something I'm missing. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 04-22-20, 01:53 PM
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Sorry I cannot find it.
Did look at the parts and it looks like a very simple dryer.

Did you check the power at the terminal strip?
Often you can loose half the line so if you did not check then make sure you get 240 volts between L1 and L2.
Be Careful!!! 240 is lethal!!!
 
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Old 04-22-20, 04:28 PM
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There is a service manual/lit package that covers that basic dryer.
It is too large to post here. PM your email address for LIT_787207.

@ manden..... I've emailed it to you too.

As mentioned..... check for 240vAC at the connection point on the back of the dryer.

 
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Old 04-22-20, 04:49 PM
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Just saw what dryer that are. No 240 volts to dryer or loose connections at dryer (burnt wires). the common problems are hi limit thermostat ( one on top of heater box) most common 2 Heater element open. If neither one of those a bad syntrinfical switch in motor, Timer, If heater element or thermostat is bad clean the vent to the outside. If not you will have this problem again.




timer
 
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Old 04-22-20, 10:17 PM
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Thanks, I checked both sides and the combined. I've got 120, 120, 240 so no problem there.
 
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Old 04-22-20, 10:36 PM
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i haven't worked on that many washer and dryers, but the ones i have worked on, all had a wiring diagram taped to the inside of the rear cover on the control panel.
 
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Old 04-23-20, 01:45 AM
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Unplug the unit.
Set the timer to a heating mode and the temperature selector to high.
Set your meter to it's most sensitive resistance scale usually 200 ohms.
Short the meter leads together before starting so you can see if there is a zero offset in the meter.

Now the centrifugal switch on the motor should have two thicker wires going to it, usually red.
Measure from the L2 at the terminal strip to these.
One should be 0 ohms and the other infinite ohms.
If OK measure from the infinite ohms one to L1 at the terminal strip.
Should be in the 8 to 12 ohm range. This is the heater resistance.
The circuit is usually centrifugal switch, heater coil, high limit thermostat, operating thermostat, thermal fuse, timer heat contacts,L1.
If OK then odds are that the centrifugal switch on the motor is bad. Either the switch or the mechanism that activates the switch when it gets close to operating speed.
If infinite ohms (open) then one of the components in the circuit path is bad.

 
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Old 04-23-20, 03:47 AM
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Just read my post from yesterday and hope you understood it. Must have been tired when I wrote it.
240 good Manden lead you right but I always set meter to beep or buzz when leads touched together (just easier to hear than see meter) I always checked thermostats than heater element. This is where 95% of problems are.
 
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Old 04-24-20, 10:10 AM
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Pjmax, thanks, that's a nice manual. It was a big help and it will come in handy for future projects as well.
 
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Old 04-24-20, 10:13 AM
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Thanks, I found the diagram...sadly it was right in front of me while I was testing.
 
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Old 04-24-20, 10:17 AM
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manden, thanks. I've checked everything but the centrifugal switch and I suppose it must be the troublemaker since everything else is operating normally.
 
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Old 04-24-20, 12:36 PM
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There is a way to double check it but it is a bit sketchy.

Unplug the unit.
Remove the two reds from the centrifugal switch and short them together.
Make sure they cannot short to anything else or get caught upm in a moving part.
Then give it a try.
This is meant as a short test only. Do not try to run for any length of time like this!!!!!
If you have heat then for sure it is the centrifugal switch.

Looks like originally you could replace just the switch but now must replace the motor assembly.


 
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Old 04-24-20, 04:20 PM
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manden, thanks. I need to see if I can reach the motor without tearing everything apart. If I can I'll give your suggestion a try. In the mean time I found this video on a "power off" method. Other than complete disassembly it looks rather straightforward.

Here is a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wnEEIAsmok
 
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Old 04-25-20, 04:52 AM
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Yes that will work but he has the motor pulled out of the unit so getting at the switch is easier.
 
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Old 04-26-20, 04:14 AM
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Been trying to remember how we checked switch. If I remember right you take the red wire from centrifugal switch I always just unpluged it from heater box. Connect volt meter lead to wire (don't let wire touch anything) and other to ground Do not reconnect wire back to heater. Turn dryer on and you should get 120 Volts. If not switch is bad. You will always get a volt reading if wires are connected to heater box.
 
 

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