Refrigerator not cooling?

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  #1  
Old 05-27-20, 09:21 AM
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Refrigerator not cooling?

My daughter recently purchased a trailer that has an apartment model refrigerator in it.

Frigidaire model FFPT12F3MW. Ít's apparently about 8 years old and looks like new. The previous trailer owner says it was working perfectly...

There is power to the unit as witnessed by the light coming on, but even after two days, it is barely below room temperature - both fridge and freezer compartments. This is with the temp controls at max.

I am wondering if the power source is the problem. Because we cannot get the trailer closer than 50' to our house, we have had to run an extension cord (just 14 GA) to power the thing, fed by a 15A circuit that has no other draws. I know this is anything but an ideal situation.

Any advice on how to troubleshoot this problem would be much appreciated. My daughter and 6 year-old grandaughter were in an abusive relationship and were forced to leave their home during this pandemic.

Thanks!

 
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Old 05-27-20, 10:44 AM
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Below is info on this unit
Frigidaire Manual Search Results

Is the evaporator/freezer fan running when the door switch is held closed?
Is the compressor running? You can usually hear it but also should be able to feel it vibrating.
Usually with a low power the compressor will overheat and keep tripping the thermal protect.

If the above are OK then remove the cover at the back of the freezer so you can inspect the evaporator coils.
 
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Old 05-27-20, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for your reply.
The fan runs with the switch held closed.
I see that the compressor gradually heats (hand held on it) up in less than 2 minutes and trips the thermal protect.
Would going from a 14 GA cord to a 12 GA cord possibly provide the need boost?
If this indicates the unit is not getting enough power is there anything I can do?
 

Last edited by Tom Lusk; 05-27-20 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 05-27-20, 12:02 PM
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Does the compressor sound like it's starting..... a slight rumble or is it just a hum ?
Feel the large copper line to see if it's getting cool/cold.
Is the fan running down by the compressor ?

It may need a new start/capacitor module for the compressor.
 
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Old 05-27-20, 12:42 PM
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Thanks.

Hi: It's just a hum - no other noises except for the clicks when the thermal protect trips.
I don't see a fan housing.
I've attached photos.
Which copper line should I check for cold?
 
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Old 05-27-20, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Lusk
Because we cannot get the trailer closer than 50' to our house, we have had to run an extension cord (just 14 GA) to power the thing
EDIT- You can't run a fridge on a 50-foot extension cord.

Originally Posted by Tom Lusk
This is with the temp controls at max.
Turn the temp controls down. By forcing the Fridge to MAX CHILL, it will run the compressor to fail mode
-before you can diagnose the problem.

Short term, one "trick" you might use is to get a few pounds of dry ice, cool down then freezer/fridge area, and THEN see if the fridge works.

As always, you want to vacuum out the cooling fins, defrost the fridge, and THEN try get it to cool, plugged into a direct outlet.
 

Last edited by Hal_S; 05-27-20 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 05-27-20, 02:07 PM
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50" is only 4 FT 2 Inches I would get a better extension cord with larger wires 12AWG minimum. You can also check the voltage at the refrigerator while plugged in and running it should be around 120VAC +- 10%
 
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Old 05-27-20, 02:16 PM
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I wish it was 50", but it's actually 50'.
If the previous replies thought it was 50", can I assume there is no way to get this fridge working?
 
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Old 05-27-20, 06:17 PM
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FFPT12F3MW0 is the full model number.
A 50' #14 cord should be able to run that.
Plug in a low wattage lamp and watch what it does as the compressor runs.

That's a strange fridge. The service manual and parts listing don't show the inside evap coil or the outside condenser coil. I don't see an external cooling fan.

I can see that replaced a propane/120v fridge.

That fridge does use a starting cap that may be bad.
It's hard for us to judge if the compressor is actually running or stalled.
 
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Old 05-27-20, 06:18 PM
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I cannot say for sure if 14 gauge or 12 will work but it is worth a try.
Also as stated earlier check the voltage at the fridge when it tries to start up.
Also check that there is nothing else that draws much current of that circuit.
 
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Old 05-28-20, 04:12 PM
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OK I was going by the previous posters 50" 50' is a whole another story I am sorry for the confusion.

I would try for at least a 10AWG cord for that much of a distance, however that is not going to be cheap.

As I stated before I would check the voltage at the end where the refrigerator is for excessive voltage drop.

I would also check the circuit where the cord is plugged into to see if there are any other high amperage drawing appliances on that circuit that would effect the circuit.

@PJmax.
How can you tell that this replaced a Propane/120V refrigerator?


 
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Old 05-28-20, 04:22 PM
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@PJmax.
How can you tell that this replaced a Propane/120V refrigerator?
I see the capped off propane line and abandoned 12v wiring.

Someone installed that to replace an extremely overpriced ammonia type refrigerator.
It isn't easy as they don't fit well thru the doorway.
 
  #13  
Old 05-29-20, 08:28 AM
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@PJmax,
I hate to sound like a dunce but can you point that out to me, I don't know exactly what you are seeing that I don't
I just see the refrigerant lines coming from the compressor of the new refrigerator. I don't see a capped propane line & 12V lines
 
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Old 05-29-20, 11:50 PM
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There must be a leakage in the system and the it needs to be fixed. But only a professional can check the pressure of the gas with the guage.
 
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Old 05-30-20, 10:26 AM
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No problem......
The red circle is the cap. The red line travels the pipe where it comes thru the bottom.
The blue arrow, circles and marks are the low voltage wiring. It also come up thru the bottom.

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