Maytag Neptune washer won't unlock

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  #1  
Old 09-04-20, 10:51 AM
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Maytag Neptune washer won't unlock

For a while now when we start a load it will shutoff after a few minutes so we need to press the start button and it will continue. Now it seems as though it doesn't finish. Before after the spin cycle it would turn the drum for 1-2 minutes then shutoff. Now it just keeps turning the drum and does not stop. If I stop it manually then the door does not unlock. Help please. I did google how to manually unlock but what about solving the problem?
 
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Old 09-04-20, 03:12 PM
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I need a model # but I think you are talking about a front loader. If so open the dispenser lid there should be a colored plastic string. It goes to door lock and if you pull it should unlock door. A lot of times it gets pushed down under dispenser and you have to take the screws out and lift if up to get to cord.
PS post model # and if it is the machine I am thinking of the repair could be expensive.
 
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Old 09-05-20, 10:38 AM
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I did manage to open it with the cord and yes it is a front load. Model is MAH3000AWW.
 
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Old 09-05-20, 04:01 PM
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To tell the truth did not know any of those machines were still around and working. Retired 5 or 6 years ago and had not worked on one in a couple of years before that.
In console there should be a tech sheet (if you are lucky) It will tell you how to get washer into test mode. You than can run tests to see what code or part isn't working. Your best case would be a wax motor for door lock. Been so long I forgot just where it is located. After that there are control boards, motor and motor controller all could cause your problem.Keep us posted as what you find.
 
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Old 09-05-20, 07:56 PM
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Okay, can you tell me where to get to the console?
 
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Old 09-06-20, 03:44 AM
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Old 09-06-20, 04:03 AM
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Control panel on top, there should be some screws in back that usually the back panel comes off. been a long time since i opened one but I think i am right
Found a service manual for machine. Not the easiest to use but there is a trouble shooting guide.
.https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=MAH3000AWW+TECH+SHEET
Manden came in while I was looking his is the same manual but a lot easier to read.
 
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Old 09-08-20, 08:42 AM
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Thanks for the manual. Any thoughts on what the culprit is? It seems as thought the cycle does not complete to unlock the door.
 
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Old 09-08-20, 03:04 PM
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Trying to think back 7 , 8 years ago. Had a lot of motor control board replacements but forgot what symptoms were.Wax motor in door lock was another one we replaced a lot.
 
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Old 09-09-20, 05:39 AM
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I think that is the same model I used to have. It was so bad I stopped replacing the control board and eventually mounted it outside the machine so I had easier access to replace blown components and wrote the component part numbers on the machine with a magic marker. In my case it was easy to spot at the components where physically blown, burned or smoked so it was a simple matter of replacing them. I found it best to solder wire leads onto the control board so the components could then be attached to the wires, sparing the wire traces on the control board from the repetitive rework.

If you don't have a failure of the control board you may need to replace the wax motor that operates the door latch. You can check with a multi meter to see if the control board is sending power to the door latch at the proper time. If yes then it may be the wax motor needs replacing. If no current is being sent then it's probably the control board.
 
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Old 09-09-20, 07:17 AM
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Thanks Pilot Dane, I had forgotten about that. You can see a burnt spot on board usually were one component went bad.
 
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Old 09-13-20, 06:08 PM
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Thanks for the feedback, for now I'm just using the cord to unlock until I have time to dig into it. Would the wax motor was the culprit would that account for the machine shutting down at the beginning of the cycle? As mentioned before, for about a year 80% of the time the washer stopped and we have to press the start button for it to continue.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 03:28 AM
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Sorry trying to remember systems but coming up blank, just to long since I have worked on one. It was pretty equal as to which one I replaced more. I do remember replacing more motor and boards just before I retired.
I will keep thinking and if I remember something I will post here.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 05:53 AM
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Thanks, let me know if you recall. Logically it doesn't make sense that the lock would stop the start of the cycle unless there is some programming that says if the lock does not activate then stop.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 08:17 AM
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Yes, the cycle stops if the door is not locked. It's for safety and why there is a lock there in the first place.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 08:20 AM
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Thanks. In the instructions it said you can measure the OHMs to see if the lock is good. Do you concur? I might just roll the dice and buy the lock. I'll need to figure out how to replace it. The controller is expensive and may not be worth replacing due to the age of the machine. I'm just worried that the quality of a machines today will be inferior.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 04:49 PM
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I am suprized that washer still works, Most went to the boneyard long ago.Service techs hated them.
 
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Old 09-15-20, 04:45 AM
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Any suggestions on what to replace it with?
 
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Old 09-15-20, 05:07 AM
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Have you looked at the control board? I had to replace the wax motor in the door lock once but I had reoccurring blown components on the control board. I think the resistor on the control board that blew most often was the one that controlled the door latch.
 
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Old 09-15-20, 05:24 AM
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I just looked at the controller and there are no visible signs of damage. My feeling is that if it was the wax motor it just wouldn't unlock but what is happening is the cycle never finishes, just keeps agitating after the final spin cycle. Could this be related to wax motor? I wish I knew more. Now I need to figure out how to take the top off to take a look at the wax motor.
 
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Old 09-15-20, 05:52 AM
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Okay I have it all apart now. The troubleshooting guide said to test the impedance on the wax motor and it should be 1900. Mine tests at 1200. Is this conclusive enough that this is the problem?
 

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Old 09-15-20, 08:04 AM
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I don't know if that's bad (like a open or short) but it sounds out of range. It would equate to the wax motor consuming about 12 watts versus about 7 1/2 watts at 1900 ohms. That's about 1/3 more current flowing through the control board. I don't recall for certain but I think the resistance you measure will vary with temperature of the wax motor.

Have you run the machine through a sequence and checked that you are getting 120 VAC to the wax motor at the appropriate time in the cycle?
 
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Old 09-15-20, 08:21 AM
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No I haven't tested that. I guess I'd have to find the leads on the control board and reassemble the washer?
 
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Old 09-16-20, 11:36 AM
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I ordered the wax motor, cross your fingers.
 
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Old Today, 09:23 AM
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I received the wax motor and the impedance is only 1100. I installed the motor and ran a wash. The door locked, started filling with water and the agitator started working. 2 min. in it shut off and I had to press the start button to continue. I'll let you know if it stops by itself. In the meantime, I rerouted the cable to unlock it manually to a more direct path to the side of the washer to make it easier to unlock in case the wax motor does not help.
 
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Old Today, 02:11 PM
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If it doesn't work check motor control board, bottom on right side. Look for burnt spots on board. Have heard they are east to repair but the Maytag repair was to replace board and motor.
 
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