A couple of weekends ago while making the morning bacon in the oven we heard a loud POP! from the oven. I have heard that noise before so I knew it wouldn't be a good thing. Sure enough, the breaker was tripped. Reset it to find the range unresponsive. Opened it up and searched to find the cause of the pop and it ended up being from the control board. (see pictures)

The range is model FEF379ACK and the sticker on the control board is:
Spitfire Controls, Inc.
SF5301-S7509-NC
Model No: 316207509

I have been doing a bunch of searching and it appears that part # 316209529 is the replacement for model 316209509 but I am wondering if other part numbers also will work. For example, I found one on eBay that has all the same buttons, same button layout, they are just in different locations. That one is part # 318414213. Is there anyplace I can find all the part numbers that would work with my range? Thanks!

BTW - I do know I can find part 316209529 however I would like to avoid spending $200 if I can.

 

OUCH..... if something didn't spill on that board you may have also lost an element.
That's pretty major damage. Indicates a possible short.
I'm checking on the boards now.

If you're playing around..... take an old toothbrush and alcohol and clean off that board.
Post another pic of the back.

 

OEM # 316207529 replaces # 316207509

You'll get a better deal on the 7509 board because it has less parts and is not as involved as the 7529 board. I haven't found any other comparable boards yet.

I'm trying to find out what the repair kit is... repair kit on ebay

 

Here are pictures after cleaning as requested. I did see that repair kit and that is likely over my skillset. I have been contemplating using one of the repair services advertised but I would really only save about $25-30 and to me, the boards look pretty badly damaged. I am thinking it might not be repairable and I would then be out $75 I did have one board on order for $150 but they canceled my order.

I will for sure check all elements again before installing a new board.

 

Ouch that is another reason I dislike modern appliances with electronic control boards.
Yes check each side of of each heating element to the grounded stove frame or the other grounded object (like a nearby receptacle or the stoves receptacle if it is a NEMA 14-50R) in the case the stove is unplugged which it should be if you are working on it.

 

That's nothing. That board is repairable. Needs a new L2 relay. The solder went bad on the L2 relay and when it started arcing.... it flashed over to L1. I've fixed that problem before. However.... what's with the second picture. What happened over there ?

The upper two relays switch L1 to the appropriate element.
The L2 switches L2 to both elements at the same time.
This is typical of a Frigidaire board.

 

The mark in the second picture is from the arc from the first board. The entire part is like a sandwich with the green sides facing each other. There are jumpers going from one board to the other. In the newer parts I have seen, it appears the jumpers have been replaced by a ribbon cable.

I see there are two companies advertising on eBay and online as a repair service. (search 316207509) Can you recommend either? The reviews are pretty hit and miss. I sent one of them an email and only got crickets.

 

I didn't see two companies on ebay. I see 5-6 rebuilding companies. I haven't used one of those in ages. I did recommend appliance timers to a member with positive results.

I thought I found a white module for you but it's gone. You don't care the color. You can change the inlay.
With Covid and the holidays.... there might be a delay in service.

 

This one here: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...hoCqGcQAvD_BwE says it is for my model number of range but the part number is very different. Also, the buttons are in different locations. I don't know if that matters or not.

I also took off the back of the range and I did find one of the elements where the wire connects was very close to the metal frame. I'm wondering if that caused the short. I could not find any arc marks though. I get 16.6 ohms on the element which equals about 3500 watts so I suspect the element is good.