dishdrawer leaking

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  #1  
Old 02-20-21, 01:14 PM
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dishdrawer leaking

kenmore dishdrawers have leak. I know the top one leaks. I am in process of trying to see if bottom one is also. I think the top leak may be where the lid comes down to cover the drawer. it is designed so that as you push drawer in, it hits a part of the back of lid, which forces lid down on top of the drawer. The drawer-lid mating surface has build up-scale I assume. I have city water but no softener. I have tried using CLR and vinegar. doesn't work very well. There is no way to soak it. The rubber like material on the lid that mates with drawer also has white build up. Any thought on how to remove this. I think this is first step to determine leak

. There are white spots on the side of the frame of the drawers and since there is no openings on the side of drawers, I think the lid is where leaking. But I could be wrong.
 
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Old 02-20-21, 02:43 PM
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I have to assume this is an older model.
I thought they stopped making top loading unit in the early 60's. I understand they were popular in the US and Europe from the 1930's till about the 1960's.

A GOOGLE search for Top Loading Dishwashers only brings up clothes' washers.
 
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Old 02-20-21, 02:55 PM
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I purchased new from Sears about 2008
 
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Old 02-20-21, 03:13 PM
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Supply model and serial numbers.
 
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Old 02-20-21, 03:19 PM
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Old 02-20-21, 04:01 PM
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Hammer, I'm at a loss. Everything I look up with that number never shows a picture and any other dishwashers with similar numbers are all front loaders.
The only thing specific to that model number are parts located at Appliance Parts Pro. Check them out if you haven't already. They mention leaking around the door.
 
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Old 02-20-21, 04:08 PM
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strangely, the manual that came with it says model 465.1334**. the last 2 digits (the **) are just color/finish. mine is stainless, so the last 2 digits of 665.133435 is 35. but not sure why first digit is different- 465 vs 665 that is on the actual dishwasher?
 
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Old 02-20-21, 04:12 PM
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OK I think I misunderstood. Using the base number I notice this is two draw front loader. Am I correct? So you don't have a top that lifts up but instead two draws that pull out then you load from the top of those drawers. Am I correct?
 
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Old 02-20-21, 04:15 PM
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You can get a service manual at a cost of $10 from
allrepairmanuals.com
 
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Old 02-20-21, 04:17 PM
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yes, 2 drawers that pull out and then load them from the top.
 
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Old 02-20-21, 04:20 PM
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it has manuals for both 465 and 665. any idea why dishwasher says 665 and manual says 465
 
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Old 02-20-21, 04:20 PM
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Here's what I thought you were talking about




 
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Old 02-20-21, 04:24 PM
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I was confused why you were saying like 1960's, LOL. I have never seen those before.
 
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Old 02-21-21, 05:19 AM
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I do not know how close the following will match your unit but it may be useful to you.
Kitchen Aid is made by Whirlpool.
4317427 KAD-10 KitchenAid 2008 Drawer Dishwasher.pdf - Google Drive

You could wet a paper towel with vinegar and bunch/lay it on the build up.
Keep it wet.
You could also try a stronger acid re: Muriatic acid etc. but you will have to be very careful.
 
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Old 02-21-21, 05:25 AM
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The service manual that Manden suggested is what you need. It might be worth getting the exact one for your model that I referenced earlier. These are not a user manual but a service manual meant for repairs by the service people.
 
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Old 02-21-21, 10:48 AM
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I am not sure I understand "Kitchen Aid is made by Whirlpool"? Mine are Kenmore Elite. But looked at manual and it does look like mine. I Guess Kenmore Elite also made by Whirlpool?

Thanks. The manual is good for disassembly. But it doesn't give any troubleshooting for leaks. My top drawer is one that is leaking. I thought of taking off plastic bottom cover of top drawer and see if I could see any leak while running with the bottom drawer removed. The problem is that the way they are designed, I won't really be able to see what is going on because the lid for the bottom drawer, and bottom part of metal frame of top drawer will block any view. perhaps I need to pull whole unit out and try to get view, while running from behind. I don't know if hoses are long enough for that.
 
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Old 02-21-21, 10:52 AM
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yes, I tried the paper towel with vinegar. I also previously tried muriatic acid. not much luck. with either.
 
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Old 02-21-21, 11:12 AM
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If the gaskets are old, cracked or worn, no amount of cleaning will help. You may need to replace gaskets.
 
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Old 02-21-21, 11:23 AM
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the gaskets have no visible signs of damage or wear. you have to replace the whole lid. the gasket isn't a separate part from what I saw. it was like $240. lot of money to put into a dishwasher that has been in use over10 years, especially if you aren't even sure if that is where leak is.
 
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Old 02-21-21, 01:53 PM
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Gee, I'm at a loss as to what to say. The mating parts as you close the draw as explained in you first post. Could they be worn and are they replaceable?
 
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Old 02-21-21, 02:00 PM
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no gasket listed. only whole lid, which includes the gasket. Like I said, I'm not 100% certain that is where the leak is. I have a scope cam, maybe I can try to shove it up from underneath to see. there isn't a lot of room to work. seems like the lid/tub mating area could have been designed a whole lot better, like have it slope into tub instead of being flat and have gasket on that slope. Just like when I had bottom drawer out and was running top and saw dripping. I thought, why didn't they have slight design change to direct that water so it is contained. very simple to do. People designing things never think of things from perspective of owner or repairman.
 
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Old 02-21-21, 02:14 PM
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I was referring to this in my last post "it hits a part of the back of lid, which forces lid down on top of the drawer. "
Not necessarily the gasket.

People designing things never think of things from perspective of owner or repairman.
Very true. Sometimes by design.
I've always said that the designers of a mechanism, video game, assembly procedure should never be the ones to write the instruction manual. They should find "Joe Blow" down the street and watch him try to "do" the thing. Then an independent manual writer should write the manual based on "Joe's" success.
The original designers are too close and make too many assumptions.
 
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Old 02-24-21, 12:35 PM
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I thought I replied but guess I didn't. The lid is plastic and just comes down farther in the back. As you push in drawer, it contacts the part that is down lower in back and pushes the lid in, which, due to the way it is designed, causes more down movement than back movement. as continue to push drawer in, the lid completes it's downward movement contacting the drawer, and just moves in with the drawer. There is no way to see exactly how the lid moves down and if there is way to make it move down more? even the manual that was sent previously doesn't show the lid removal. I haven't pulled unit out, and I suspect that needs to be done to remove lid. To remove lid for bottom drawer, I suspect the top and bottom units need to be separated. I have no idea about top drawer as counter prevents me from seeing what is above lid.
 
 

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