I have a GTDP200EMWW GE electric dryer which had a defective timer which I replaced over a year ago. As part of this replacement I had to add a new wire for the S terminal since the other one was too short and the quick disconnect terminal had broken. The connectivity of it seems fine.
I noticed that the dryer, after a year automatically shuts off after two minutes so I looked at the timer and the B terminal was really hot and the plastic has melted. Purchased another one and a week after same thing happened. Can't find another timer and I'm using an OEM one. Note that I should have most probably replaced that B wire but the end of that wire must be at the back of the machine which is hard to replace.
Can anyone help me troubleshoot? Could my "new" wire be adding too much resistance, would this cause something like that? Is this symptomatic of something else?
Thank you
Last edited by PJmax; 02-17-22 at 08:17 PM.
Reason: cropped pic
I have a kitchen aid refrigerator. I bought a "brand new" part online that did not fix my problem.
The part is a temp/humidity control panel
# w10769076. The date code on the part is
1190 JABIL.
What month/year does this represent ?
My original part on my fridge is date code 6210 JABIL
Thanks !
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The upper arm of my Bosch DW is not spinning. I called Bosch and they gave me tips on cleaning/flushing. I flushed it - still does not spin. I thought the water level was low and added water into the unit. After adding 64 oz I was able to get water to come out of the holes in the upper arm but, it will not spin. The lower arm spins.
I have tried different options on the panel but, no change to DW operation. Any idea what is causing the problem with water level and arm spinning? Could it be a pump that is not forcing enough water?
Thank you
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