Electric Dryer has no heat

The dryer is a Whirpool WED5200VQ1. I don't have the owners manual and all I could find on the Whirlpool site was an installation manual. Their troubleshooting suggestions are worthless as usual.

Any troubleshooting help would be appreciated.

 

would just unplug it and get the back off of it check the thermostat and limit fuse for continuity with a meter good idea to check that the duct is clean while your there usually it's something simple like an open limit thermostat.

 

I got the back off and checked the Hi limit thermostat and the thermal cutoff/operating thermostat. They all had continuity as did the heating element.

Is there any other check to make sure the heating element is OK and is it possible that the thermostat is opening before the cutoff opens?

 

thermal fuse check ok? if all those have continuity might try another cycle see if it heats at all or not would probably look at the cycle timer.

 

I tried both timed cycle and automatic. Same results no heat. I'm going to put it back together and try some power on checks to see if the heater is getting power. I will check the timer switch also.

 

When troubleshooting an electric dryer.... first step is too confirm 240v at the receptacle and then to confirm inside at the rear splice box where the cord connects.

Over half my service calls for electric dryers are no 240v or the wiring in the junction box is burned.

If it turns out you have a safety sensor open.... that would indicate a less than clean duct system.
Safety switches only trip on lack of air flow.

 

The duct system is only 3' long and is very clean - I checked. The power supply is correct - I checked. Everything other than heat works. Both thermostats and the thermal cut out have continuity. I'm going to look at the timer switch next.

 

Everything in the dryer runs on 120volts. Only the heater element uses 240volts.
Don't let the fact that the motor works fool you into thinking there is 240v inside the dryer.
You've confirmed a short exhaust which lessens the probability of having a defective sensor.

That dryer used tech sheet W10185985. It should be inside the dryer.... possibly on a service door.
Sometimes in the timer area. I have attached the PDF of it below for you.

This diagram is from the tech sheet. I highlighted it for your use. Switch A is the timer element switch.
Switch B is ok as the motor is working. The thermal cut-off is a one shot device. The other two cycle.
There is also a switch in the motor.... 1M and 2M..... that closes when the motor is running.

 

When you checked the thermostats/cutoffs/heater etc. did you disconnect one side of each device you were testing?
Also did you use the lowest ohms scale and actually read the resistance values?

This is important because depending where the timer is set it could act as a parallel circuit path and give a false reading.

 

Pete - Thanks for the schematic. That will be a great help. I removed the tech sheet from inside the dryer a couple of years ago. I put it with the owners manual in a file cabinet. They were drowned in fire fighting water and were discarded.

 

As with most electric dryers.... that one included.... the heating element circuit is open until the motor is actually running so you can check the switches any time with a meter set to Rx1 or on AUTO. You are looking for only 1-2 ohms on the meter. If your meter has an ohms position with audible..... use that. If it beeps... it's ok. The timer should be in an OFF position.

 

Pete - The schematic made trouble shooting pretty simple. Thanks again. The problem was the timer switch. There was no continuity between the line and the heater. Contacts A/C remained open in all switch positions.
I just wanted to run that by you in case I am missing something.

 

You'd have to check the A to C switch with the unit powered for AC. The problem is that switch may not turn on as soon as you put the dryer into heat. That switch will also control the tumble down where the dryer turns with no heat.

Can you pop the cover off the timer and see if the contact is burned ?

 

I have disassembled the switch and I looked at the switch contacts they don't appear to be burnt. The odd thing is that I can rotate the switch manually, see the switch contacts make for each side of the timer (Automatic and Timed) and get continuity but only on one side. This dryer gets lots of use and the cam lobes may be worn.

In any case it looks like the only other possibility would be the motor switch. I ordered a new timer switch. If that doesn't fix it I'll probably head for the appliance store. Thanks again.

 

plenty of you tube videos on repairing them common issues seem to be stripped cams or grooved cam followers' possibly just bad contacts often you could get them working again if you wanted to mess with it.

 

If the timer doesn't have a burned contact.... it's probably ok.
You never confirmed.... or told us.... if you actually measured 240v inside the dryer.

Everything can be tested in actual operation by leaving the belt off and keeping one side of the heating element disconnected.

 

I measured 240VAC at the terminal strip on the back of the dryer. Once I move the dryer out where I can access it the power cord no longer reaches. I'll pull the washer out tomorrow to get more room.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I replaced the timer switch today and we have dryer heat again.

Pete - the schematic did the trick. I printed the copy you provided and put it inside. It probably saved us from buying a new dryer.