Haier Deep Freezer stopped working
#1
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Haier Deep Freezer stopped working
Hey all
So one day my wife called and said the deep freeze died. So I came home and pulled out the start relay. It was clearly broken (rattle sound) so I bought a new one plugged in back in and the compressor kicked on.
So I left it on and went about my day. About 4 hours later I checked in on it and the freezer wasn’t even cool.
So I read that the thermostat could go bad. Replaced it and the exact same problem. Compressor ran, got pretty warm, but never got cool.
So today I checked the compressor itself.m using a multimeter over the three pins. Added the two numbers and equaled the 3rd. So that should mean the compressor is good.
My only next thought is to get a supco 3 in 1 and try that?? I’m really at a loss. I don’t want to toss the deep freeze since it seems the compressor is good.
Any ideas? I have read about checking the Evap fan or the coils, but I am not even sure I can get into them in this type of freezer.
So one day my wife called and said the deep freeze died. So I came home and pulled out the start relay. It was clearly broken (rattle sound) so I bought a new one plugged in back in and the compressor kicked on.
So I left it on and went about my day. About 4 hours later I checked in on it and the freezer wasn’t even cool.
So I read that the thermostat could go bad. Replaced it and the exact same problem. Compressor ran, got pretty warm, but never got cool.
So today I checked the compressor itself.m using a multimeter over the three pins. Added the two numbers and equaled the 3rd. So that should mean the compressor is good.
My only next thought is to get a supco 3 in 1 and try that?? I’m really at a loss. I don’t want to toss the deep freeze since it seems the compressor is good.
Any ideas? I have read about checking the Evap fan or the coils, but I am not even sure I can get into them in this type of freezer.
#2
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Just because the coils measure OK with a meter does not mean that the compressor is good.
If I interpret your post correctly you said the compressor did run but you had no cooling then it is a sealed system problem and probably not worth fixing.
If I interpret your post correctly you said the compressor did run but you had no cooling then it is a sealed system problem and probably not worth fixing.
#3
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Thanks for your reply.
I was under the asumption from a few different places that the mulitmeter test would indicate that the compressor was operating correctly. This is my first time working on a deep freeze.
The compressor is running and gets pretty hot, but the inside only gets slightly cool right near the top side panel..Just slightly cool
I was under the asumption from a few different places that the mulitmeter test would indicate that the compressor was operating correctly. This is my first time working on a deep freeze.
The compressor is running and gets pretty hot, but the inside only gets slightly cool right near the top side panel..Just slightly cool
#4
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It probably has a freon leak.
This would be an expensive repair as you need a pro.
There are other compressor problems that could cause the same symptoms but they also are expensive repairs.
I am assuming this is a chest freezer.
This would be an expensive repair as you need a pro.
There are other compressor problems that could cause the same symptoms but they also are expensive repairs.
I am assuming this is a chest freezer.
#5
Your ohmmeter check of the compressor coils indicates that the coils are good. The fact that you can hear the compressor run and it gets warm indicates that the compressor is running. However, as Manden stated, you have a sealed refrigerant system. If the refrigerant has leaked out, which is the most likely cause, then the system won't cool, even though the compressor is running. Often, the leak is at the evaporator coil inside the freezer. Unlike central A/C systems, refrigerators & freezers don't have any access ports that make it relatively easy to add refrigerant (after fixing the leak).
#7
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@masprague,
I have run into a similar issue with my refrigerator.
My last test was to measure the high-pressure coil(small) and the lower-pressure coil(large) temperature out/into the compressor respectively. My testing results show similar temperatures and one of the local techs told me that I might have two issues that are not worth to repair.
1> freon leak
2> weak compressor
Good luck!
I have run into a similar issue with my refrigerator.
My last test was to measure the high-pressure coil(small) and the lower-pressure coil(large) temperature out/into the compressor respectively. My testing results show similar temperatures and one of the local techs told me that I might have two issues that are not worth to repair.
1> freon leak
2> weak compressor
Good luck!
#8
Choice 1.
Even a weak compressor will generate some pressure causing a difference in connecting line temps.
The proper way to test a compressor is with an amprobe (clamp-on current meter).
If the operating current is way below posted draw.... it's the charge.
Even a weak compressor will generate some pressure causing a difference in connecting line temps.
The proper way to test a compressor is with an amprobe (clamp-on current meter).
If the operating current is way below posted draw.... it's the charge.