I have a Sears Kenmore refrigerator model #253.72923012 (by Frigidaire) with factory installed ice maker. It's worked wonderfully since the refrigerator was new about 9 or 10 years ago, but this morning I noticed the bail was at approximately a 60 degree angle (the same as last night), the ice maker had stopped in mid-harvest. When I reached in I felt the cubes were ready to drop and with my fingers I pushed them enough to drop into the bin. The bail still doesn't move. I suspect a plastic drive gear in the ice maker is bad and I just need to replace the entire ice maker assembly. I have always done this type repair myself in years past, but this particular refrigerator and model was selected because it was the only one I could find that would fit under the wall cabinets and it is tight, very tight, I am not sure I can get the unit out from the wall by myself especially when partially loaded. I am sure the refrigerator must come out from the wall to replace the ice maker.
I do not have experience with this model but have never had to pull a fridge out just to work on an ice maker at least a fairly simple fridge like this one.
Take a look at the following probably not an exact match to yours but it has lots of valuable info,
In case the link does not take you there it is IN Frigidaire section Top Freezer Refrigerator 5995562831 Refrigeration - Google Drive
Joe..... you're handy. Do this first. Open the freezer and remove the one screw at the bottom of the ice maker that holds it to the sidewall. Lift it gently so that it slides off the two side clips. Pull the ice maker away from the wall and you'll see a plug. Unplug it and take the ice maker out. Put it on something and let it defrost fully.... over night. Try again tomorrow.
I have the parts to service them but it's difficult as you need to keep taking it out to work on it. I've been using aftermarket replacements. I'd been buying them from ebay but there are vendors on amazon too. The aftermarket models are in the $50 range while the original can be close to $125. I have not had any replacements fail in many years.
Open the freezer and remove the one screw at the bottom of the ice maker that holds it to the sidewall.
It wasn't easy, but I was able to get it out which is a good thing because the condenser hasn't been cleaned since I bought it. It's clean as a whistle now.
Thanks for the reply PJ, I was hoping you'd see this thread today. I know there are two screws above that screw the unit to the sidewall, but I hadn't looked at the bottom till you suggested it. All I see there though is a bracket that is likely used on some models to screw to the sidewall, but not on this model. When I raise up I can see it's just the two screws on top that will have to come out. The back screw will be easiest to get to. The front screw I can only see if I get my face well up into the freezer, but then I can't get a nut driver on it. I can do it, will just be a little tricky. I already looked up a new OEM replacement ice maker from Part Select and the cost is about $142 plus tax and freight. I had good luck with this source and kept the old Crosley Refrigerator and icemaker going for about 36 years including once replacing the entire ice maker.
If you think replacement of the entire ice maker is what I need to do I'll get one ordered right away.
Looking at the picture.... the ice maker is supposed to be hanging on the top two "studs".
It's the screw in the bracket on the bottom that needs to be removed.
That bottom bracket is there, but wasn't used at the factory. There is no screw there nor is there a hole in the sidewall for a screw. I ordered the replacement ice maker and when it gets here I'll remove the old one. I suspect that you are right and the unit just hangs on the two top screws meaning those screws won't have to come out, just be loosened a bit. I've already had a 1/4"nutdriver on hem and loosed them a bit. The best thing that has come of this is now the condenser has been cleaned.
These newer ice makers are a lot easier to deal with then they were 40 years ago.
I hope it's as simple as just replacing it. Till the new unit comes I won't be removing the old one so I don't know yet how the electrical connector works or how water enters this unit either. I'll find those things out as I remove the old one.
I remember the ice maker years ago on the Crosley refrigerator, it was one of the old style with a plastic cube tray that was twisted to eject the cubes. I remember when the new style came available as a direct replacement it was like night and day. Not only was it much quieter, but it made nicer cubes as well. It was with the newer technology with the heat wires to release the cubes at harvest.
The replacement ice maker came today, it took no more than 5 minutes to change it out. The plug was a direct plug in, exact replacement for the original one. It's been 3 hours and the bail has slightly risen to about 45 degrees. The old unit just stopped early in the harvest cycle with the bail at about 60 degrees and stayed there for 5 or 6 days. I assume this new one will go through a harvest cycle although there is nothing to be harvested and then it should fill and start to make ice normally again. My fingers are crossed.
It's been 24 hours, no ice yet. This morning I advanced the new ice maker till the bail went up and then back to full down and left it. I checked back an hour later and the bail was at 45 degrees again as if it was going through a harvest cycle. That's where the original ice maker stopped working. I verified water to the refrigerator. Verified no kinks in the lines. Verified that there is no ice in the fill tube.
I am now suspicious of the water inlet valve because that's about all that's left, but I really don't think it's bad. When the original ice maker stopped it was early in the harvest cycle and cubes were yet to be dropped. It stayed at that point a few days. The ice maker quit before it got to the point where it should have called for water and that is why I replaced the entire ice maker assembly.
You need to check for power at the plug. There is hot, neutral, water valve, ground.
Check with a non contact test pen see if you have hot.
I'm looking for the technical info now. Is the ice maker plug four pins?
If this is one of the fridges I'm thinking of.... there are diodes in the water valve lines that go bad.
Does the door water work ?
Have you seen ANY activity at all from the ice maker ?
Yes, the ice maker plug has 4 pins. Wire colors are Blue, Black, Yellow and Green w/Yellow stripe. This wasn't an expensive refrigerator, just a simple top freezer model. No water in door. No door switch on freezer door.
Check for power at plug? At the ice maker plug or water inlet valve plug? My non contact tester quit some time last year and I never replaced it.
I am tempted to just go ahead and order and replace the water inlet valve (about $25), but I keep thinking that it shouldn't be bad because the ice maker stopped working before the cubes were harvested, it wasn't time for the valve to open yet.
When you have water in the door there are three valves.
Main water, door water, ice water.
When you activate the door.... the red line powers the door water and the main valve on purple.
When ice needs water... the blue line power the ice fill and the main power valve on purple.
This is done so that you can change the filter without the water running inside.
Ok... you don't have door water. In that case I don't know if you still have the diodes in line.
Is there an inside water filter. If yes... you have the diodes.
I haven't messed with it in a couple days. The last thing I did was advance the ice maker and watched the bail arm rise and then drop to the lowest position as I turned the gears and that's where I left it. A couple hours later I checked it and the motor had driven the bail to about 60 degree position. This is where the bail stopped early in the harvest cycle a couple weeks ago when I discovered the ice maker had stopped working. That's when I replaced the ice maker unit with a new one. It's been in the 60 degree position for a couple days now, not moving any further. It now appears to me that I didn't need the new ice maker unit after all.
There is only one valve, no water or ice in the door. Just the one valve for the ice maker in the freezer.
I'll look at it a little more this afternoon, but I am feeling that I am just about to the end of my ice maker repair abilities.
It cycles partially, that's what stumps me. Like I said before, I can advance it till the bail is down and a couple hours later the bail is back at 60 degrees, the same as with the original ice maker unit, but it won't go any further. Just remains at 60 degrees. But at no time when advancing does the water valve ever open to fill the tray.
One day it worked perfectly and the next.....this.
The bail goes up to the red position when cycling or locks a little higher when manually turned off.
As the cycle comes back to the start the arm lowers to almost horizontal... or 90°.
Ok, it's fixed! I was getting tired of dealing with it and finally called a Frigidaire dealer for a service call after I had reinstalled the original icemaker. The service guy wasn't here 20 minutes. He says, "you need a new ice maker, I've got one on the truck." He put in the new ice maker and it immediately opened the fill valve and filled the tray. Less than 2 hours later it dumped a load of ice. I was gone for a day and a half so I dumped what ice was in the bin. I get back and the bin is full!
I am returning the ice maker I bought off Amazon, it was obviously defective. I used to always get parts from Partselect.com, but their ice maker price was $141 and I thought I could save a few bucks by buying the one from Amazon. I didn't even order the cheapest one on Amazon, I had ordered one that cost a few bucks more, but came with a one year warranty. Didn't work out that way, but I am just glad it's working again.
Sometimes we live and learn. At least the condenser is clean now.
HBE5451UC/02
500 series wall oven 4 years old. about 1 year out of warranty it started acting goofy. i notice stuff undercooked. finally bought a 50 dollar decent thermometer with sensor. findings are that sometimes when it's set for a temp like 350 it wont get to 250 barely. other times you set it and it goes to the correct temp. the other day i set it to max and wouldnt get above 350. i needed 450. i put it on convection and the temp actually went down vs going up like i thought was normal. i normally do preheat on convection. just to night i put it on max and it got to 450. tapped it down to 425 and watched it. it did go down to 400 and up to 450 during cooking which seemed correct. but the problem is it needs babysitting to make sure the correct temp is there
and even i do turn it up to get more heat, it wont start heating up even. i have to turn the oven off and on or perhaps open the door to get the preheat light to flash.
im not very electrical minded but just wondering if theres anything i can do myself to calibrate it or whatever needs done.Read More
Hello. I have a GE Nautilus GSD3960L00SS.
Would you please watch the following short video? It shows my dishwasher and under my sink.
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvW9EC9LqjY[/url]
Recently, my dishwasher has begin to smell bad. I can't say it's not coming from the sink, but I don't seem to really notice it until I open the dishwasher door.
The video explains what I have done up to now.
I do not see an obvious air gap.
I've been living here for 4.5 years and don't recall anything like this happening before.
There is no self-wash cycle on the dishwasher, and the manual doesn't address this problem.
Thank you!
Read More
05-24-22, 09:08 AM
