We just got a new LG washtower as we're trying to save space in our laundry room (and add a utility sink).
Using the existing vent to outside (and lengthy/sturdy hose) , the closest the installers could get to the wall (to the left of unit when facing it) is about 10" or so.
We'd like to cut that distance in half by either having someone cut a new hole for the exhaust vent right up next to the vent coming off the dryer (so that we can literally just run the hose a few inches straight out from unit into wall), or would it be easier/better to get something like https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01FF4ASTS or https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08V47X3YF or even as simple as https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XXW1N1P (I would put one directly on dryer and one on vent). Or maybe there's 'softer'/more flexible ducting that could bend more and save us space?
In terms of moving the vent hole, I think it depends on what's on the other side of the wall. On the elbows, I believe either of your options would work but I prefer metal elbows for a little extra high temp protection, particularly for the elbow at the dryer.
Periscope vents are available over 5" so you shouldn't have a problem finding one to fit your needs. If you go that route, make certain the one you select can be taken apart for cleaning.
Well, I use an oval metal 'hammer head" vent tube adapter to get the dryer to sit back a bit further, also acts like a secondary 'lint trap' for light items that go through the dryer but don't stick to the lint screen - e.g. - buttons, money, small bits of paper etc.
Had one of those periscope vents once, they leak like crazy, utility room was always a mess just could not get them sealed. These off set elbows work much better.
Would you set it up like this? Essentially, using existing hose (or a shorter replacement one), instead of hose going into unit at top, the adapter goes into unit (essentially becoming an extension of the unit's built in connector), and then hose connects from bottom of adapter and into existing vent in wall.
This seems like a good, simple option, with no real points for clogging/leaking/etc... assuming everything is tightened properly.
Both of those are for minimizing distance between appliance and wall, with that heater you could problaby just use regular 90's with a piece of hard duct, don't use flex pipes on dryers, they collect lint!
I have an AirVac Gold series, model #ZX6000, that has decided just to pulse rather than run when any remote outlets are used. The pulsing is on / off at about 2-second intervals. It works just fine with the tank switch. The pulsing occurs at all of the remote outlets. Any solutions or suggestions on where to start analyzing?Read More