HBE5451UC/02
500 series wall oven 4 years old. about 1 year out of warranty it started acting goofy. i notice stuff undercooked. finally bought a 50 dollar decent thermometer with sensor. findings are that sometimes when it's set for a temp like 350 it wont get to 250 barely. other times you set it and it goes to the correct temp. the other day i set it to max and wouldnt get above 350. i needed 450. i put it on convection and the temp actually went down vs going up like i thought was normal. i normally do preheat on convection. just to night i put it on max and it got to 450. tapped it down to 425 and watched it. it did go down to 400 and up to 450 during cooking which seemed correct. but the problem is it needs babysitting to make sure the correct temp is there
and even i do turn it up to get more heat, it wont start heating up even. i have to turn the oven off and on or perhaps open the door to get the preheat light to flash.
im not very electrical minded but just wondering if theres anything i can do myself to calibrate it or whatever needs done.
It doesn't sound like a calibration issue.
At first I was considering the temperature sensor that's in the oven. Typically when they go bad the temperature is shifted by a certain amount or it drifts high and low. That means not only would you see low temps but you'd be seeing high temps too over the setpoint..
I don't work on many Bosch ovens/ranges but the problem matches some generic brands. The relay on the control board for the element goes bad or possible defective solder connection at the relay or on that control board. If I was servicing the unit I'd check the control board for visual problems first. Unfortunately I don't have any service info on that model and can't find any online so I can't point you where to look.
The repair guy came out and he said that it is functioning fine which of course is true because half the time it does work. He recommended turning off the circuit breaker for 30 minutes and that will drain the capacitors and possibly reset something. If it happens again he said it sounds like the control board but there is no test for the control board. With labor probably 450 or 500 to put that in because you have to pull the whole oven out. However he did say when he pulls the whole oven out he can test the heating elements and the sensors to see if they are the problem and he could replace them instead if they are the problem. However since I have hidden elements he told me the labor to do that is a lot but he didn't give me that figure. My oven is in a very tight spot and it's literally the only reason I bought the oven and I hate it but I needed an oven. It does not list the temperature on the oven and if you even want to get to the time or you have to drill down into the menu. So he took the dimensions back to the shop and I said if you have a new one cheap I will buy a new oven from you. But at 23.5 almost no wall ovens will fit in there width wise
If considering replacing you might have to look at other European (premium) brands as they often have smaller sized appliances available. Miele makes a 24" wide oven that needs a 21 3/4" wide opening.
sales guy called me. found a blomburg that is narrow enough. i never heard of them even! only 900 bucks. and offered 300 for the 5 year warranty. sadly if i bought the warranty before i would have this bosch fixed free. sigh. but now i gotta pull out the old oven because this is 1 inch narrower and unsure i have enough cabinet under there or id see an opening on the sides. he said there are other options for me but not under 1000 bucks.
i also hate to just trash this oven. i guess with someone who knows what they are doing they wouldnt mind it but how many people sell used ovens lol. and it does 'work' when it works. just not every time lol
elements are not visible .also tried it again. set it at 350. wouldnt get above 240. cranked to 400 and barely got above 300. sigh. i did pull it and my inner width is 21 15/16 so now i know what i'm working with. and i do like how ez to clean hidden elements but wonder if i should try to find one with exposed elements. but then again. it probably is the control board which means the elements are not the issue.
so just curious. how do you find out how ez a control panel is to replace before you buy the oven?
been reading articles that say ovens should last 10 or 15 years so repair under that time frame. i really cannot see tossing my 1800 dollar oven after just 4. it just eats in me. ive been reading detailed specs and even if i replaced with a 900 dollar oven that fits, it still means 1800 down the drain. of course then i worry will that cheap an oven last..sigh. but then do i wanna spend 1800 for another new fancy one. i did like the ovens with temp and timer LEDs visible. i dream about an oven with those features. sigh. i wish there was a market for used ovens but my local online ads show me used wall ovens are 100 or 200 if you are lucky
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I have a Sears Kenmore refrigerator model #253.72923012 (by Frigidaire) with factory installed ice maker. It's worked wonderfully since the refrigerator was new about 9 or 10 years ago, but this morning I noticed the bail was at approximately a 60 degree angle (the same as last night), the ice maker had stopped in mid-harvest. When I reached in I felt the cubes were ready to drop and with my fingers I pushed them enough to drop into the bin. The bail still doesn't move. I suspect a plastic drive gear in the ice maker is bad and I just need to replace the entire ice maker assembly. I have always done this type repair myself in years past, but this particular refrigerator and model was selected because it was the only one I could find that would fit under the wall cabinets and it is tight, very tight, I am not sure I can get the unit out from the wall by myself especially when partially loaded. I am sure the refrigerator must come out from the wall to replace the ice maker.
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