If you have a multimeter that reads capacitance, you can use that to check the capacitor. The relay should close and send power to the compressor when the thermostat calls for cooling, so you should be able to check to see if the compressor is getting 120VAC when it's supposed to be on.
Definitely check for 120vac to the compressor when it should be running before you do anything.
Typically when the start/overload/relay has a problem you'll hear it clicking trying to start.
I have tested both the Relay and capacitor and they look fine.
Also I tested the resistance of three wires on compressor.
S => C is 5
C => R is 5
S => R is 9
S => ground is OL
C => ground is OL
R => ground is OL
So I assume the compressor is fine.
Question 1> I don't think I hear any click when I start the refrigerator.
Is it possible that even the relay is still conductive but it is weak and stops working?
Question 2> How do I check the following?
Definitely check for 120vac to the compressor when it should be running before you do anything.
Thank you
BTW,
1> all fans work
2> all coils are clean
3> I am pretty sure that the capacitor is good.
There should be one in your appliance. It's called a tech sheet. Usually folded and in a plastic bag. Could be behind a front kickplate or near the compressor.
The model number is: Jenn-Air Side-by-Side Refrigerator JCD2290HES
Does my unit come with a self-test mode that I can use to locate the problems?
Thank you
What I have checked:
1> all coils are clean
2> all fans are working
3> I have tested the compressor capacitor(spec 15uf) and the device shows 15.8uf
4> I have tested the compressor relay and the device has continuity. https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...613606/3023300
However, I do NOT hear a click sound when I plug in the refrigerator.
I have ordered the OEM parts and have to wait until tomorrow.
5> When I power on the refrigerator, the wires to the compressor relay and capacitor have power.
6> I have tested the compressor and all electric parts look fine. S => C is 5ohm C => R is 5ohm S => R is 9ohm
S => ground is OL C => ground is OL R => ground is OL
7> when I plug in the compressor, the coils directly connected to the compressor are room temperature and I think it should be very hot. So the compressor might not even start.
8> I have set the temperature through the front control panel to the lowest.
The diagram below is from the wiring diagram. The condenser fan and the compressor are connected together using white for neutral and blue for hot. That means if one has power... they both do. Double check you have 120v on the blue and white wires at the compressor. If you do... the problem is in your start relay assy.
Question1> Do you want me to test the two holes of the adapter?
Quesiton2> Based on the diagram, both fan and compressor share the same blue and one white wire.
Does the extra white wire connected to the adapter is used to control when the compressor starts?
Yes... check at that plug when the condenser fan is running.
The two white wires are incoming neutral from the power cord and out to the rest of the fridge.
They are tied together in the plug.
I will use a multimeter to read the voltage after I back home.
Though, I tested the adapter has power with a noncontact voltage tester this morning and the tester shows the adapter has power right after I plug in the refrigerator.
Question> Is it true that the adapter should only have power when the control board calls for cooling in normal conditions? In other words, does the adapter have power when the compressor is OFF?
The neutral is always present on the plug. It is the hot that is switched.
Yes... it needs to be in cooling. When it is... the fan under there should also run.
I installed the new compressor relay and capacitor.
The compressor starts right up but still blows hot air
When the compressor is ON, the small copper line is around 94F while the larger copper line is around 87F.
So my guess is that the refrigerator leaks somewhere and it is lack of freon. Based on my understanding, DIY cannot easily test the low freon.
Yes.... that would be a good indication you lack refrigerant.
Unfortunately there really isn't any way to test or repair.
Typically the leak is in the evaporator inside the fridge which is almost impossible to repair.
There are some that add a quick tap onto the refrigerant line and try to recharge.
You could find that on you tube.
Not something I discuss here.
My fridge has been making loud noises for several days. It's very difficult to find an answer for what is causing this. All I see is 'maybe it's this, maybe it's that, maybe it's something else'. I decided to start with defrosting as a solution, so I took all the food out and unplugged it for a few hours. Plugged it back in and it still made the same noises. It either screeches, or else it sounds like a loud purring.
So when that didn't solve the problem, I decided maybe it's the fan. But I don't know where the fan is or if I could even buy a replacement fan for this fridge. It's an old fridge.
I removed the cover plate for the controls and took a photo. Is this where the fan is located? On the right:
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1493/img_0310_1__bba97d9cca89f6a2010001ef8874b95ddb621579.jpg[/img]
The front of the fridge says 'Inglis' and 'Superb'. Not sure what model. There is an Energuide sticker inside the fridge with 'FIP11' stamped on it - I don't find any relevant information for any of that when searching online.Read More
I have a Samsung RS275ACBP side by side that has problems with ice buildup on the fridge side.
Ice is building up by the circulating fan, to the point of fan blades hitting the ice, which makes a whirring noise. [s]I think the fan is near the top of the fridge? [/s] (fan is near the bottom.)
Also, my water dispenser tank is freezing up. This is at the bottom of the fridge though, behind one of the drawers.
When I run the fridge through "forced defrost" mode a couple of times, the fan noise goes away... run it a few more times consecutively, and I can get water from the dispenser again! So it stands to reason the defrost element is working... Problem is, within a day or so the water tank freezes up and the ice builds up again near the circulating fan.
It seems a "fridge temp sensor" or "temp defrost sensor", or "thermistor" needs to be replaced; however, there are a number of different, yet similar sensors for my model refrigerator. Apparently, I have to unplug and let the fridge defrost for a couple of days before prying off the back covers, or I might damage something- so I'd like to have the correct parts before I start defrosting.
I have searched youtube, etc. but haven't found info on my exact model. It is also confusing b/c there are SO MANY problems with these so many crappy Samsung refrigerators.
Luckily, I do not have problems with the freezer, or water pooling at the bottom of the fridge. BTW, these issues only happen during the summer, I guess because it is more humid.
Any help would be appreciated! I could probably do this repair, but I'm very confused as to which part I have to replace!
Thank you for your help,
J.
UPDATE: After searching repairclinic.com, I am fairly sure I need the DA32-10105R refrigerator temp sensor. For my fridge, they have 7 different temp sensors and thermistors- so it's hard to figure out which one.Read More