Maytage fridge: ice maker not working properly - also fridge warm


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Old 09-28-22, 07:21 AM
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Maytage fridge: ice maker not working properly - also fridge warm

The ice maker in my Maytag refrigerator (MFI2569VEM1) has stopped working properly. I have taken several steps to attempt to repair to no avail. Best I can tell is that the ice maker compartment is not getting cold enough to allow the ice maker to function but not sure why. Best I can tell is that it is cold enough to freeze but not cold enough to eject/refill. I can force it to work by putting refrigerator into diagnostic mode and forcing the ice compartment fan to run a few times to cool down compartment. After doing that the ice maker works as expected, it dumps the ice, refills and then eventually freezes new cubes.

I performed the following repairs:
1. Inspected coils, all clear
2. Replaced Ice Maker Module Assembly
3. Replaced Ice Maker Thermostat (including Alumilastic Cement)
4. Replaced HV Control board on Refrigerator
5. Verified ice maker fan works via diagnostic mode
6. Verified Ice maker works properly by jumping it. When cubes are frozen it dumps and refills properly after jump starting it with a jumper wire.

The only thing I have not replaced is the ice maker wire harness which I can't imagine is bad since the ice maker works when it's cold enough

I'm not sure what triggers the ice maker fan motor to run but I figured I have replaced everything that is involved?

Any ideas or advice?


Thanks!
 
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Old 09-28-22, 11:04 PM
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Not really familiar with this fridge/ice maker although several members have had similar problems.
Since the ice maker is in the fridge the temperature around it is important. It won't harvest at fridge temps.


Service Test - 192 Ice Maker State Test
• Display shows “dr” if left fresh food door switch is in the door open position.
• Display shows “OFF” if ice maker power switch is in the off position and door closed.
• Display shows “On” if the ice maker power switch is in the on position and the door closed and
heater is off.
• Display shows “OnH” if icemaker power switch is in the on position and harvest heater is on
and door closed.

Interesting that the harvest heater is checked.
That heater should only be on when the ice maker is in the process of harvesting.

The tech sheet has all the diagnostic tests.
It looks like the ice maker harvests when its on board tray thermostat reaches approx 15°.
Check and see what the ice maker area temp is. It can be adjusted.

Tech sheet - W10238848 (available on request)
Let me know when you have it as I don't leave them posted.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-29-22 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 09-29-22, 06:08 AM
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Thanks, I grabbed tech sheet. I appreciate it.

Service Test 192 shows "On"
Service Test 213 - Was set to 0 for ice compartment. I set to 2 for the heck of it to see if it makes any difference

Also bought some freezer thermometer to get a more accurate reading of the actual temp.

Still stumped.
 
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Old 10-01-22, 07:00 AM
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Bad fresh food thermistor?

Troubleshooting an issue with refrigerator (Maytag: MFI2569VEM1) where the fresh food section is not cooling properly. Freezer section is working fine. The actual temperature showing on panel is 0 for freezer and 38 for fresh food. The thermistor reading for fresh food when in diagnostic mode is 56! which is the true temperature of the fresh food area as measured with thermometer. And the thermistor for freezer is reading 1 which is correct and matches the actual temperature on the panel. All other diagnostic tests (fans, compressor, etc..) are successful but the fridge won't automatically cool fresh food section because it thinks it's already cool enough.

I first thought it was main board so I replaced it but same issue.

Is it possible that a fresh food thermistor can read proper temperature in diagnostic mode but send the wrong data to the board?

Thanks!

 
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Old 10-01-22, 11:11 AM
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I combined the threads as it's the same fridge... same tech sheet.
Also.... a warm fridge may hamper ice production.

I've found thermistors to be 99% accurate and trouble free.
On the other hand... the dampers and fans have more problems.
Yours has a fridge damper.... that needs to be checked. WPW10127427 damper search for reference

Should have three thermistors (thermostats)
ice mold sensor - WP627985
fridge/defrost ?? - WP67006387
fridge temp. - 12002355 (test resistance - 2.7K ohms at 77 degrees)
 

Last edited by PJmax; 10-01-22 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 10-03-22, 07:29 AM
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Thank You Pete.

Update:
I have checked the damper and all seems fine. Opens and closes in diagnostic mode.

I replaced the fresh food thermistor and now it's cooling but now doesn't seem to stop! The thermistor reads 90 degrees in diagnostic mode and 56 on the front panel of the fridge. Actual temperature in fridge measured with thermometer is 38. The thermistor I used was https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094S3WLGG...t_details&th=1 which is listed as replacement for 12002355 but it seems like it may not be actual OEM which is maybe why I'm seeing these strange and inaccurate temperature readings? I found the actual OEM part for 12002355 here: https://www.genuinereplacementparts.com/12002355-oem and have ordered that as a last ditch effort to correct this.

Also, now that it is cooling, the ice maker is working normally again.

So it seems like everything works but there is still an issue with refrigerator knowing what temperature really is and when to start/stop based on that.

What, other than the main board, would be responsible for displaying fresh food area temperatures on the front panel (in diagnostic mode or otherwise) and why would they be different from actual temperature?

The readings for the freezer temperatures all match between thermistor (diagnostic mode), front panel and actual temperature, it's just not accurate for fresh food for some reason.

I will post update after replacing fresh food thermistor with genuine OEM part.


 

Last edited by barlav; 10-03-22 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 10-03-22, 10:54 AM
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If you had a meter you could check it for resistance. I left the value previously.

That amazon part.... 2 for $13 is questionable.
 
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Old 10-04-22, 12:31 PM
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Checked resistance of both old and new thermistors. The cheap ones are way off (both at room temperature and 32F) the original was correct for both. I put back the original and back to the original problem of not cooling fresh food area. The front read out of actual refrigerator temperature is 30+ degrees F less than the fresh food thermistor diagnostic value (Service Test – 141 for my fridge MFI2569VEM1) which is close to actual temperature. I tested with two different main boards with the same result. So thermistor is good and I have to imagine at least one or both boards are OK as one of them is brand new. What's left? Front dispenser panel? Wiring? Is there a way to test the other side of the wire harness that goes into main board? The tech sheet shows this as the blue/white wire that goes into J3 connector. If that's bad not sure that's fixable?

Whatever determines to start cooling is using the temperature value that is showing on front panel and not the diagnostic thermistor value. Does that make any sense?

Thanks for any advice!

 
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Old 10-04-22, 07:40 PM
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The 141 test would let you know if the wiring was open to the board.
If Service Test #141 shows the temperature between 36-40 then its fine.

Did you set the board programming..... programming

 
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Old 10-04-22, 09:49 PM
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Yes, both boards programmed with proper code (my code was same as that video link 2020).

Service Test #141 shows shows proper temperature

I have Service Test - 203 Show Temperature Set points set to Off to show the actual temperature on panel (instead of just the set points). It shows a much lower temperature than the 141 service test value. It differs by 25+ degrees F. The fridge must be using this temperature as the value for determining when it needs to cool which is preventing cooling from happening because the real temperature is 25+ degrees warmer than that.


 
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Old 10-05-22, 11:46 AM
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Tested resistance of fresh food thermistor at the wire connector that goes into J3 (pins 1 and 5) and it matches the actual resistance of the thermistor so everything is good wiring wise with the thermistor going into the board.

I am guessing, when in service mode, it is pulling the temperature directly from J3 which would result in the accurate reading I am seeing. But, the temperature that is being used to control starting/stopping of cooling (and is displaying on the front panel (when set to show actual temp) ), is different (less by 25+ degrees) must be determined by some other path. I can't tell what that path is using schematic/wiring diagram but, whatever it is, must contain the problem at hand.

Since it happens on multiple boards I am beginning to think it must be some kind of internal wiring/connector/harness issue?

 
 

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