Dryer not drying after attempted duct work cleaning

We were in the process of getting a new washer, so while I had the old washer removed from our utility room, I decided to clean out the duct the dryer connected to (as well as the short duct tube in the dryer itself). I used maybe a 6' long "lint brush" to clean out the duct work going into the house.

We got our washing machine today and washed a load and threw it into the dryer (just underwear and socks). It has always dried in the normal cycle on medium. Today when that cycle finished, the clothes weren't completely dry. I noticed the top of the dryer was hot to the touch, almost to the point where I couldn't leave my hand on it very long. I've never felt it that hot before.

I went outside and ran a "vent cleaner" up the duct work but didn't pull out too much lint. The flap on the outside vent is free to move, but when I ran the dryer, I went outside and noticed the vent flap was still resting flush with the vent duct (i.e. it wasn't getting pushed open like I would have expected it to).

Is it possible when I cleaned the duct work that I actually compacted the lint and now the duct is severely blocked?

I see Lowes carries a 24" dryer vent cleaning kit. Is there any trick to using this? Any "gotchas"? Seems straightforward, but I hate to assume.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-Lin...Kit/5001193613

 

I would check to see if you've knocked the exhaust duct free. Also check the hose connecting the dryer to the wall to see if it's become pinched or squashed closed.

When using a dryer duct cleaner the dryer should be running. That way the moving air blows the dust and line out as you break it free. I use a cordless drill and just very lightly screw each extension section on. Turn the drill at a slow speed while pushing the brush in 3-4'. Then attach another extension section. Then when removing the brush KEEP THE DRILL RUNNING IN THE FORWARD DIRECTION and pull out far enough to remove a extension and repeat. Never click the drill into reverse as the will unscrew the extensions or brush, loosing them inside the duct.

 

It sounds like you created a clog - can you push your tools through the vent from one end to the other?

 

The space in the utility room is very tight, so I couldn't run the semi-rigid duct work. I had to use what you see below. I was cleaning from the dryer end. I should have thought about running it like you say But given it apparently is compacted on the end near the dryer, I don't know if that would have prevented that problem.

I'll try cleaning it like you say Pilot Dane. For those connecting rods, I also read to use duct tape to help hold them together and like you said, only rotate clockwise.

As you can see, I can't really pull the dryer out any more without it really sticking out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/x1AtXBc8fQLhHd1r7

 

We happened to have a guy come by this morning that was finishing up repairing our fireplace. He's a general handyman. I asked if he had time to look at the dryer and he got out those "flexible sticks" that I mentioned earlier and a drill. He went from both directions and got a decent clump out near the opening by the dryer, but he said there's definitely something really compacted in there and that I'd need to hire a chimney sweep. He said they can use compressed air and may have other tools to break up the clump.

I went under the house just now and saw that the main horizontal run had two seams that are taped together with Mastic (about 10' apart). It feels like flexible aluminum tape. I tried peeling it off a little but it's pretty damn sticky.

It sure looks like they just butted those two pieces together and taped them. I don't see any indication there's a smaller diameter pipe joining those two pieces together. If they are just taped together, could I just remove that tape (or cut it at the seam) and try to push something through from both ends of that long run (using the kit below and a drill)? Or is there some device I could put in there to grab the clumps of lint?

If you look at the cleaner sold at Lowes (below), or in the pics I posted, you'll see what looks sort of like a claw that I'm sure would break up the clump:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-Lin...Kit/5001193613

What do you think my best option is here? Cut open those seams and buy the cleaning kit at Lowes, or hire a chimney sweep?

And for a bonus and probably a good laugh for most of you, I have NEVER cleaned that vent (been here 14 years). I just assumed as long as my clothes were getting dried in a decent amount of time, everything was good. The handyman said we should be cleaning it every 8-12 months, depending on usage. Does that sound about right?

Thanks,

Andy

 

If you have access to the duct from below I would disconnect a section close to the obstruction. Then work from there. You can also try an endoscope or mirror & flashlight to look into the duct and see what is blocking it.

 

Problem is I don't know where exactly it's blocked. I thought separating at both points and running that cleaning tool through that horizontal section might do the trick. If I do that, am I better off trying to cut around the seam or can I pull off the Mastic with a little elbow grease?

Our crawl space is pretty decent and sealed, so I don't have a problem working down there. I do have a very short endoscope that I might be able to use to look for the obstruction. And it does have a light on it and a decent display. I just want to crawl into that area once and be done.

 

I'm guessing you don't know how long the duct is.
Since I'm usually working solo...
I put a shop vac on the dryer end and send a brush on a rod in from the outside vent end.
I just stick the shop vac in and fill with a rag.
Using something like this.

 

It's approx. 22', excluding the vertical piece going down from the utility room to the crawl space.

That piece you showed is EXACTLY what he used. And he was attacking it from both ends but kept running into a spot he couldn't get through. And he was using a drill.

Since this has never been cleaned, do you think I'm better off just replacing the whole vertical run??? If so, what tool would I use to make a clean, straight cut?

Based on my pics, do you think they literally just taped two pieces together?

What are those small metal straps that hold the duct in place called?

 

I've decided to hire a company to clean my duct. After talking with a few of them, I found out that the rods they use are much more durable and rigid than what was used the other day. Lesson learned. One guy told me his set cost $600. Plus they have attachments that can cut through any really hardened ball of lint. They're going to charge $149 to do the job, which is worth it to me.

Thanks for all your advice on this one. Being in my early 60s, I didn't really look forward to getting under the house and working on the duct (especially since Mastic is apparently pretty hard to peel off).

I'll just make sure I get this done once a year now.

 

Once I had a young neighbor help with cleaning my duct. He reversed the drill which unscrewed part of the string about 20' from the opening. I got a coat hanger and sorta straightened it out. Then I fashioned one end into a corkscrew shape and left a long straight tail I could securely tape to the cleaning rod. Then I shoved it into the duct until I felt the bit lost inside (the blockage). Then by turning the rod, which turned the corkscrew on the end, was able to snag the obstruction and pull it out.

As another tip. Sewer drain snakes and cleaning rods also work. Obviously you have to be careful of the tip chosen and how fast/hard you rotate. But many drain snakes come with a spiral/corkscrew tip and a cutter head that's also sorta good at grabbing obstructions. You just have to be careful with the heavier tool that you don't damage the duct.

 

Thanks for that additional info Pilot Dane.