Steam Cleaner keeps blowing thermal fuse. Why? Please help!


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Old 08-10-14, 09:40 AM
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Steam Cleaner keeps blowing thermal fuse. Why? Please help!

Hi all, great forum!

I have a small, kettle-like steam cleaner which stopped working. Replaced the thermal fuses but it keep blowing within a minute of switching on to make steam.

The thermal fuses i replaced are;

KSD 135 C - a reasonably large silver canister thermal cutoff @135C

RY 184 C 10A 240V inline thermal fuse - looks like a big thermal resistor

Its the inline one that blows. It is directly connected to one of the steamer's heating element poles and AC240V in at the other end.

Can someone explain why it is drawing so much current that it burns out? It took out a 13A extension fuse the second time also. Third time just blew the inline again.

All other components checked and working. The heating element has expected resistance of 56.6 Ohms ((240Vx240V)/1000W)), the canister thermal cutoff 135C has 0.04 Ohms.

I'm at a loss with this one and the internet seems silent on the matter so I only hope someone more experienced can help.

Should I get a higher rated inline fuse, say, 200 C 15A? Some seemed to think that was a fix, maybe, for the Shark Steam Cleaner, i noticed. Is that a safe idea?

Finally, can I short the inline fuse to see if it gets up to steam properly and then just pull the plug if it starts getting too hot? Given the rating on the inline fuse I assume this could potentially be considered dangerous but i wanted to see if the 135C fuse would blow after a while too. I have a fire extinguisher, multipurpose, to hand.

Thank you in advance for looking!
 
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Old 08-10-14, 10:07 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

Are you really attached to this small kettle ?
Sounds like it's time for replacement.

The heating element itself may have a short that only appears when powered.
Have you checked for continuity from the two AC connection to the metal pot ?
 
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Old 08-10-14, 12:20 PM
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Hi PJmax thanks for the reply.

It's not so much that I need to repair the steam cleaner, more that I have to know what has caused it to break. Can't let go till i know...

Update to my previous post - the Ohm reading of the element has, since the 3rd blown inline fuse, now risen to a steady 260 ohms. It was originally reading 57 ohms or so. Can I assume this is broken since it is now well above spec? ((240Vx240V)/1000W=57.6 Ohm). The reading is steady though, so that's odd if it's broken. It is not shorted to the casing either as far as i can tell.
As for continuity, yes, they all check out.
I have 10x Thermal Fuse 200C 15A 240V on order now but there's still time to stop me setting myself on fire if you advise against that swap-out.

Thanks for the input - really want to understand this simple circuit properly before I chuck it in landfill, unloved.
 
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Old 08-10-14, 12:23 PM
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If the resistance of your heating element is changing then it sounds like it has water in it.
 
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Old 08-18-14, 06:22 AM
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Got new fuses...

So my bits arrived from the East - replaced the original thermal fuse with same temperature rating (184C) but higher current rating (15A instead of 10A) designed for rice cookers, apparently.

The big silver, canister-like thermostat (KSD301) has also been replaced, like for like.

Stripped the steam cleaner right down to the last screw and descaled the steam container internals. A major discovery was that the brass steam button was locked solid due to mineral deposits. I unlocked it with WD40 and pliers - now fully functional again.

Put it all back together and plugged it in. Light comes on builds steam for 4 minutes then light dims to almost nothing and it cools down again.
If i leave it for an hour or so unplugged then the KSD301 resets itself and the light comes on bright again for a minute or so, then dim again.

Soooo, the circuit is working and not blowing but the light goes dim and it stops heating after a couple of mins.

The element does seem to be working even at the higher resistance it has now gone to (266 Ohms from 57.6 Ohm spec).

Any thoughts?

Thanks for the previous advice btw, i did dry the element section in the oven on low heat for a few hours. Didn't change the resistance of the element though.
 
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Old 08-18-14, 05:38 PM
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Heating element at fault

OK so the light came on full brightness having been dim for a while but there's no heating at all now.

The heating element now reads no continuity/resistance but all the other components are fine.

Given the initial blown thermal fuse, no power and the subsequent increase in resistance reading of the heating element upon thermal fuse swapouts, I think it's safe to assume the heating element was the culprit all along.

I suspect the brass steam button being crusted open/shut may have caused the device to overheat and blow the fuse - the element being damaged in the process.

Unless someone knows where to get the heating elements from, this thread is dead.
 
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Old 08-18-14, 08:48 PM
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i don't recall reading a make or model number so it would be hard to offer any replacement information. Even with the make and model we may not be able to help.
 
 

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