GE Over the Range Microwave 20 Amp fuse keeps blowing up

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Old 04-16-18, 08:41 AM
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GE Over the Range Microwave 20 Amp fuse keeps blowing up

The fuse only blows, if I open the door while its running. If I wait for it to stop or if I press stop or cancel before I open the door, it doesn't blow. It did not do that before. I use to open the door before the time ended and it did not blow the internal 20amp fuse. I don't usually open the door while the microwave is running, but in some cases I do.

I checked all three door switches two were normally opened and one is normally closed, but the are working properly. If the switches are working properly, what could cause the fuse to blow?
 
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Old 04-16-18, 11:42 AM
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Its now blowing the fuse when using the Power High option.

Over-the-Range Microwave Oven Model JVM3160RF2SS
 
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Old 04-16-18, 12:35 PM
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Unfortunately.... you may think the switches are working ok but they are not. One of the door switches is a safety switch and will dead short when the door is opened. If this switch closes before the other switches turn the microwave off.... you will blow a fuse.

You will need to check the operation of the switches. Many times the bracket that holds the switches is loose or bent,
 
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Old 04-17-18, 05:11 AM
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I tested the switches for continuity and open and closed the switches to see if it was functioning. All three were working and all seem to be sturdy, but I will check again. I will be removing the microwave to test the capacitor, magnetron, transformer and the thermostats. I have worked with capacitors before and I know how to discharge it. I have read it could be the capacitor, but most likely the transformer.

I don't think its the switches, since its blowing the fuse now as soon as the microwave starts. But it could be multiple things like the switches in combination with another part. Do you think it would be worth repairing or just buying another one? The microwave only lasted 2 years. I had another GE Over the Range and it lasted 9 years. I bought this one because of the excellent reviews and from previous experience with the previous one.

https://www.geapplianceparts.com/sto...y/JVM3160RF2SS
 
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Old 04-18-18, 04:22 AM
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I tested the capacitor and it read .90 Ohms, which is what its rated at. It also pass the continuity test, meaning it did not beep. I am having trouble figuring out, how to test the Magnetron and the Transformer. Can anyone tell me what test and what reading I should get. On the Magnetron the continuity test did not beep and I will be checking the Ohms on it today. If I remember correctly, I did the Ohms test on the Transformer and I got .7 Ohms, but I will verify that today.

On the GE RANGE THERMOSTAT I am suppose to get a continuity beep. I do get it on all except got one. But I ordered a replacement and the replacement does not have the continuity beep either. Is there another test for the RANGE THERMOSTAT ?
 
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Old 04-18-18, 09:47 AM
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The Magnetron does beeps on continuity test and the Ohms were .3. on the Transformer, also continuity beeps and the Ohms were .6. The capacitor had no continuity beeps and the Ohms were .9, which match the rating. I tested the micro fuses and all have continuity, except one.
 
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Old 04-18-18, 04:56 PM
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I was trying to find a service manual but haven't located one.

You had said it was working normally but blew a fuse when the microwave was on and the door was opened. That would eliminate any problem with the actual microwave generating components.

I'm not sure what the power high function is. A microwave oven has only one heating stage. To control the amount of heating the microwave section is cycled on and off.
 
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Old 04-19-18, 05:31 AM
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I did the the continuity test wrong on the Magnetron and Tranformer. I was testing to both electrical connections and it was suppose to be from each electrical prong to the metal case. So no continuity on Magnetron and Transformer. Everything seems to be working and I think the issue is with Thermal Fuse that is rated at 70 (no continuity), because the other fuse is rated at 120.
 
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Old 04-19-18, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by PJmax View Post
I was trying to find a service manual but haven't located one.

You had said it was working normally but blew a fuse when the microwave was on and the door was opened. That would eliminate any problem with the actual microwave generating components.

I'm not sure what the power high function is. A microwave oven has only one heating stage. To control the amount of heating the microwave section is cycled on and off.
With the heating options there is are power levels 100%, 50% and 30%. Here is the the link for the manual and the parts Diagram

Main Page https://www.geapplianceparts.com/sto...y/JVM3160RF2SS

Manual https://www.myapstore.com/MarketingO...49-40669-6.PDF

Diagram Part Damage is number 138

138 — Diagram Number
RANGE THERMOSTAT 70/40

WB27X11213
 
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Old 04-19-18, 08:08 PM
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Yes.... I have all those. I was looking for the service manual. It contains the wiring diagrams and schematic for the unit.

100%, 50% and 30%
As I mentioned..... the microwave section (transformer and magnetron) are either on or off.
100% is continuous on.
30% is on for maybe 10 seconds and off for 20 seconds.
50% is on for maybe 15 seconds and off for 10 seconds.

Every unit is different and the duty cycle time is listed in the service manual.
 
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Old 04-20-18, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by PJmax View Post
Yes.... I have all those. I was looking for the service manual. It contains the wiring diagrams and schematic for the unit.

As I mentioned..... the microwave section (transformer and magnetron) are either on or off.
100% is continuous on.
30% is on for maybe 10 seconds and off for 20 seconds.
50% is on for maybe 15 seconds and off for 10 seconds.

Every unit is different and the duty cycle time is listed in the service manual.
I have it. I will scan it and post it here in case someone else needs it. I ordered the RANGE THERMOSTAT 70/40 and I will replace it and see how it goes.

Here it is:
JVM3160RF2SS Wiring Diagram
http://docdro.id/0RHVEPK
 

Last edited by Danny1976; 04-20-18 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 04-26-18, 06:00 PM
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PJmax, I replaced the thermal fuse again thinking it was a bad fuse I got. I put in another 20amp fuse and did 30sec and the fuse blew in about 3 seconds. I have tested the capacitor, magnetron, transformer, fuses, door switches and I still cant figure out why is the fuse blowing up.
 
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Old 05-04-18, 12:48 PM
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I believe problem was a bad door switch. The door switch was passing the open and close test, only because I was testing it by manually pressing the switch and checking for continuity. When I tested the switch by opening and closing the door, the switch failed. It seems the door does push the switch far enough or the sensitivity of the switch is bad. I didn't see any severe wear on the door latch or notice any misalignment.

I will order a new switch and will confirm if it worked. The switch with the issue is the middle switch.
 
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Old 05-04-18, 01:47 PM
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Yes.... that is what I mentioned back in my first post. The sequence that the switches operate in is critical. The one switch is like a deadmans switch. It shorts whether or not the microwave is running. It must be the last one to actuate when the door is opened.
 
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Old 05-05-18, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by PJmax View Post
Yes.... that is what I mentioned back in my first post. The sequence that the switches operate in is critical. The one switch is like a deadmans switch. It shorts whether or not the microwave is running. It must be the last one to actuate when the door is opened.
The middle switch works after removing it from the microwave completely. The issue is with the cable that connects to the switch. The cable that connects to the switch has constant continuity when off the switch. If I connect the plug to the switch and press the button to open the switch.... there is constant continuity on the plug. I tested the wires to the other plugs and there is no continuity with the wire off.

The switch is working like its suppose to, but plug is on a constant continuity. So when I tested the switch with the plug connected, I tested the continuity on the plug and it was constant and I assumed the switch was bad.
 
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Old 05-05-18, 04:43 PM
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Switch works if I disconnect one of the two wires from the transformer.
 
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Old 05-06-18, 05:03 PM
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I just put everything back and a new fuse and it's working. I will try tomorrow and see if it lasts. I have to tell my kids not to open the door while the microwave is running, because that's how it initially started.
 
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Old 04-09-19, 07:40 AM
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Question Were able to find a fix?

I'm having the exact same issues. Were you able to determine the problem part?
 
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Old 04-09-19, 03:14 PM
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I got rid of it and bought a Whirlpool from Lowes. It was working as long as the door was not opened while running. But my kids and visitors kept blowing the fuse and I got tired of replacing it.
 
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Old 04-09-19, 04:00 PM
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It is one of the door switches that causes the problem.
 
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Old 05-25-20, 03:45 PM
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I am having the same issue. I've replaced this oven once with the same model thinking I had a bad one 9Price was too attractive and no alterations needed to install 2nd one) but now this one is also blowing fuses. It seems like it blows when someone pulls the door open while the oven is on instead of canceling or waiting for the cycle. I have to get up earlier than the rest of the hose so I know someone keeps stopping the oven mid-cook as I see the message on the display to shut door to continue cooking.
I am using 20A SloBlo fuses.

Does anyone know what door switch I should be replacing?
Model is JVM3160DF2BB

Thank you
 
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Old 05-25-20, 04:54 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

More than likely I'll be moving your post to its own thread.
Here's a current running thread with a similar issue.
GE-profile-microwave-trouble.

The problem is not the switches as much as it is the plastic latch assembly.
The two operation switches must open before the monitor switch closes.
It's a matter of mechanical timing.
 
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Old 07-11-20, 05:47 PM
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More to the story
I kept the original microwave PN JVM3160DFBB for parts when I replaced it with the same model (same model was inexpensive at around $180 and I could re-use the same mounts). Then the second microwave started blowing fuses, mostly it seemed when the door was opened while it was cooking although I can't be positive. We replaced the fuse for at least the third time and then on the last time, when we replaced it and plugged the microwave back in, it immediately appeared to start running. No turntable rotation or exhaust fan but it sure sounded like the magnetron was running. Pressing any and all of the switches had no effect. We unplugged it and left it for the time being.
I pulled the door switch assembly from the old microwave. Testing each switch the two black ones appear fine but the gray one would not test. I kept getting around 1K ohms when closed, even after I took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts. At least I may have figured out the issue with the original unit!

In case anyone is interested, here is the info on the three door switches and some questions
Top Switch
PN: KW3AT-16
Normally Open
Black

Middle Switch
PN: KWA3T-16
Normally Closed (Yes, NO and NC versions have same Part Number, very strange to this electronics tech)
Black

Bottom Switch
PN: KW3A
Normally Open
Grey

Specs appear to be the same for the two NO switches - 125/250 VAC, 10A, 30 VDC. All 3 were made by DONGNAN. I'm not sure why the different part numbers/colors and what the differences are. I did try to find out but wasn't able to.
Interestingly, Amazon sells a set of all three switches for around $10.

Seeing that I had a bad switch (as suggested on here) with the old one I thought for sure the new unit would have a bad switch as well. We took the new unit apart, pulled out the switch assembly and tested all three switches only to find out they were working as advertised. We even put the switch assembly back in the unit and with the control panel off tested the switches in place while opening and closing the door. So, we replaced the fuse again only to have the same issue with the magnetron immediately starting to run.

Not sure of what else to do and having the old control panel handy, we put that in in place of the one that came with the second unit. Plugged the power back in and viola, no magnetron running. Everything seemed good, we set the clock, cooked some test items and then my daughter, who is usually the culprit who opens the door while the unit is cooking, did it again and promptly blew the fuse. It happened twice again over the next several days so I can definitely say it WILL blow if you open the door while the unit is running. Luckily, I ordered a 10-pack of fuses!

Right now there is a piece of tape on the handle reminding people not to open the door mid-cook but obviously that's just a stopgap.

So, for people withe magnetron running isses, the problem is somewhere on the control panel. I still don't have an answer as to why my unit blows the fuse every time you open the door while running. Switches were tested, there doesn't appear to be anything broken or cracked on the switch panel so if anyone has any ideas I'm happy to hear them.
Luckily, my son and I can change the fuse in about two minutes now.


Switches

Switch Holder

Switch holder in place
 
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Old 07-11-20, 11:39 PM
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Those switches are not NO or NC ....... they are one or the other. It appears that you may have one shorted and that's what is keeping the microwave running.

Typically on a three switch setup...... two are N.O. which means they are closed when the door is closed and the third switch is N.C. and opens when the door is closed. It's this switch that shorts the magnetron circuit as a safety.

You have to troubleshoot the door switches with everything in place with the main cover removed.
I temporarily disconnect the bottom switch to keep from shorting the circuit but monitor it with a separate meter.
 
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Old 07-12-20, 10:25 AM
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What is the testing procedure for the door switches? I have the ge jvm3160df3bb and it is blowing fuses when opening the door while running also.
 
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Old 07-12-20, 10:33 AM
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I don't have the service manual for those GE's but as far as I know there are three switches used. The upper two are function and the bottom one is the fail safe.

The bottom switch always shorts the high voltage section. That is normal and the way it should be.
So what you need to have happen is that both of the upper switches must be open before the bottom one shorts.

It's easiest to use three ohmmeters. Put one on each switch. Watch them. when you open the door..... the top two must be open before the bottom one closes. Testing is done with power disconnected.
 
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