Ge microwave blowing internal fuse when door opened during cook cycle

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-21-20, 06:13 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Ge microwave blowing internal fuse when door opened during cook cycle

Found bad monitor switch and replaced along with internal 20a fuse. Works fine as long as you let microwave complete cook cycle. If you open door during cook cycle it blows microwave fuse. When I found the bad monitor switch I also tested the continuity of the two other door switches and they showed continuity. Also tested continuity of two thermal fuses (one has to be above 150 degrees to test properly) and they both showed continuity. What could it be? Was always able to open door during cook cycle and never blew fuses before. I'm not well versed in electronics. Could one of the door switches still be bad even if it tested good for continutiy? I get confused reading about switches that are considered never open or closed or however its said.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 04-21-20, 10:44 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 57,723
Received 923 Votes on 862 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

The monitor safety switch is being activated because the operation of the other switches is wrong.

The continuity on the operation door switches is probably fine if the microwave heats. The problem is alignment. One of those needs to open the circuit before the monitor switch closes.

 
  #3  
Old 04-22-20, 04:37 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ct.,USA
Posts: 1,635
Received 73 Votes on 64 Posts
Can only guess without a schematic. Do you have one you can post? Also does the owners manual have any guidance on sequences when operating controls on the microwave?
 
  #4  
Old 04-22-20, 06:53 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you for the response. This type of stuff is not really my forte. I've learned what I have so far by youtube / google articles. Are you saying the switches are fine, it's just that maybe one or two of the other ones I did not replace just simply are in the wrong position (open / close) and I just need to toggle them back and forth until I find the right combo (which seems like could be a crap shoot to find the right combo)? In testing them I obviously did click them back and forth so I'm not sure when I put them back in, what position they were in - open or closed. I guess if you recommend, I could take them out and re-test the whole normally open and normally closed thing, but how do I know if they should be opened or closed when I put them back in? Any help greatly appreciated.
 
  #5  
Old 04-22-20, 07:21 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
PJmax... also, I did not answer the heating question - yes it appears to be heating fine when operational. Also, if it helps, with the assistance of this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNiVyn_0qh0, I tested the switches and they appear to be fine.
 
  #6  
Old 04-22-20, 10:36 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 57,723
Received 923 Votes on 862 Posts
You need to check the switches with the door closed.
You need to locate the point where each one trips.

You need the main switch to open and kill power to the HV circuit before the safety switch closes.
GE has had problems with switch mounting in the past. Switch supports bend.
This video shows replacing the switch activation system. There was a video illustrating a switch mouning support issue but I can't find it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qk5ngA6DJk

Post the model number for that unit,
 
  #7  
Old 04-22-20, 11:38 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks PJ for your time in responding. So if I understand correctly, you're saying this could still be a switch problem?

So I should check the continuity of the switches with the door closed? I think I can handle that.

As far as the video you supplied for the "latch actuator" switch activation, I know where that part is at, it seems to be working fine on mine.. doesn't appear to be cracked or anything.

If I could narrow it down to just possibly the remaining two switches and / or latch actuator I might go on a little research journey online and see if I could possibly find the parts fairly cheap and replace the remaining two switches and actuator. Still might be cheaper than a new unit.

Suggestions on the above appreciated. As of now I was just headed out the door to Home Depot to buy another couple packs of microwave fuses and test out a few scenarios (opening door during cook cycle so I can see for myself - I wasn't present when this happen - my wife claims it blew when she opened the door. It worked fine for me yesterday after fixing monitor switch and replacing micro fuse, but in my two tests, I let it run through the cook cycle to completion) and in any case.... I'll need a good main fuse to do so as I have to guess I might blow another few trying to figure it out. Right now it's still blown from when this started yesterday.

MODEL: GE JVM3160DF3WW MAY 2017 BUILD
 

Last edited by djoone; 04-22-20 at 01:11 PM. Reason: add addtl info..... model #
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: