I have a sewing machine Kenmore 10, Model 385. When connecting to power, machine light is ON, but step the switch, machine does not run. How to check root cause? Thanks
If the machine is turning on but won't sew when you push on the foot peddle there is an issue with the connection here. You could have a bad foot peddle that needs to be replaced. First off look at the connection to the foot peddle and make sure there is nothing wrong with it. Then check the machine where it attaches and make sure you have a good connection.
That machine was built by Janome for Kenmore.
The full model number should be 385.1249180
Kenmore 10 is just a trade model.
The foot pedal is a 6812.
If the cord is plugged into 120v you should measure 120vAC on A and B.
When the pedal is pressed down you should measure 120vAC on A and C.
I'm not 100% sure what type pedal that is and what you'll measure on A and C.
This is the entire wiring diagram. Makes it easy to troubleshoot the machine.
There is also a fuse shown inside the machine in one of the wire leads.
No matter press pedal or not, I could measure 120 VAC on A and B always. No VAC on A and C. Does it mean the pedal switch have the problem?
Measure pin on the machine, I could get resistant R on corresponding A and C,
Thanks
That would indicate a problem with the speed control. You can open that up to check it.
I believe I saw those pedals online for sale. Probably at ebay if you need a replacement.
open the pedal socket, check the resistant between two wire connecting pots as shown as attached picture (locates left). The circuit is open when pedal is not pressed, and the circuit is closed when pressing pedal. What is center white block? Capacitor?
NEW PEDAL FROM AMAZON CAME TODAY. I PLUG IN, MACHINE STILL DOES NOT WORK. AS ADVISED, I MEASURE THE VOLTAGE BETWEEN PINS, AB ALWAYS IS 120V AND AC IS 0 NOMATTER I PRESS OEDAL OR NOT.. DO I DO SOME WRONG OR THE PEDAL IS DEFECT?
Ok.... back in post 10 you have a picture of an open pedal. If you still have that pedal open..... create a short between the two posts on the controller. Now plug in to machine. The machine should run at full speed. Does it ?
Like PJ said in Post# 11, possible broken wire between pedal and pin where you are measuring. Try measuring at the terminals inside the pedal and/or check continuity of wires from terminals to pins.
the key issue is using brand new pedal including all wires get same results, I am not sure whether new one is defect or machine has problem. If new pedal is defect, I will require to replace, or go to another vendor. If it is machine problem, then, what else I could do before trash it?
You said you measured 120v from A to B and the light works.
I've asked you to create a short B and C which is inside the pedal.
That should give you 120v across A and C at the plug.
If you have the 120v across the A and C and plug it into the machine.... it should run full speed.
If you don't get 120v across A and C with B and C shorted..... the pedal has a bad cord.
If you get 120v across A and C and the machine doesn't run.... the problem is inside the machine.
I did create short B and C inside pedal. I always get 120VAC between A and B at 3 pins plug, and 0VAC between A and C whether pressing pedal or not. Below pictures show the detail, when short B and C inside pedal box. Picture 1 shows the pedal is not pressed. Measured 120 VAC between A and B in 3 pins. plug. Picture 2 shows measured 120 VAC between A and B in 3 pins plug when pedal pressed. Picture 3 shows measured ~0VAC between A and C in 3 pins plug, when pedal is pressed. In total, it is suggested that short B and C inside pedal box, the outcome no change. So, the pedal with code is bad? The problem is: When I bought a new one, the machine still does not work, the new pedal is a defect?
We have a Krups model FLF2 hot water kettle that has, after years of reliable service, finally developed its first problem. The switch (which is mounted at the top of the handle) has become difficult to activate.
Normally I'll just push the top of the switch and it will click into the "on" position, with a light coming on to display that it's working.
Now I have to fiddle with the switch to get it to come on. Sometimes it will click on, other times I have to play with the "trigger" on the handle, etc.
Apparently the switch that I need for this model is no longer available from Krups or secondary market appliance parts dealers. Is there somewhere else I can find a switch, or is there a way to fix this switch?
Thanks in advance for any advice. We like this old kettle and would like to keep it alive.
[img]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20220307_221714_9e0e890c7d6145881d89c56729815011c5f7dd0b.jpg[/img]
Whatever it looked like it fit in this here piece. I don't remember itnwhej it worked. Now it just drizzle out liquid. I'm thinking of fitting a piece of something in there after drilling its core out in a certain way but don't know the "aqua dynamics" or whatever to make spray. Maybe I'll look around for an old garden hose gun. I might have one...
01-22-22, 08:47 AM
