I have a sewing machine Kenmore 10, Model 385. When connecting to power, machine light is ON, but step the switch, machine does not run. How to check root cause? Thanks [img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_5288_3f0a7fb01ae2201e4113583524e5840a0a4b9d3c.jpg[/img]

I've got a [url=https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-2-1-cu-ft-Over-the-Range-Microwave-with-Sensor-Cooking-Fingerprint-Resistant-Stainless-Steel/1000293843]Whirlpool WMH53521H206 Oven[/url]. Two days ago, the underside lamp stopped working. I'm not aware of any electrical shorts that may have occurred. The bulb isn't bad. This is how I diagnosed it: At first, I thought it was simply the bulb going out. I swapped the bulb with a new bulb and nothing. I then unplugged the oven, pulled the underbody off, disconnected the motor, detached the socket and ran my Sperry multimeter across the spade connectors: 120 volts AC on the nose. I tried another bulb, again: nothing again. I noticed that if I tap the "light bulb" icon on the display panel the voltage doesn't change (I assumed it would so as to deliver different intensities). Something "smart" seems broken. I then detached the socket itself, reattached the bulb and took it downstairs where I have a variable DC power supply. I hooked the whole thing up to the power supply and the light worked. So, it's not the bulb nor the housing. I'm starting to think the main board has gone bad. And, of course, I'm about 5 months outside of my limited warranty. The curious thing is this: why am I getting 120 volts across the spade connectors? It feels like an open circuit voltage, but I'm not sure; in the past when I've experienced situations like this, I notice steady voltages across resistors indicating no current, not the connectors themselves. Any idea what might be going on? Any tests I can run before forking out the money for a new main board? [img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z-QdGsopk37TikUMA2myRWLoR6I62njnGfIOwZSgD0XHYI1eCOGYcK82QtcmsqbZxnROlTbZOw2Hl6h-Cuc8-CgihPbD4migi7wlm3euTTCfkK6vO4nqazF31Oub2C4xfwMMj3dDx882mwUoq7QT3s5JSY7RDUB3Q2jkFbiutq6lTB2Adc3n8IyY0J_bvRNWnkvVCnZuBA543ZFl8ARAOg1yE1D_g69vLBXAmuc0Xyo1rlgDic4rYwxNyMvPWXGV6g_b6-pKeU47OaCFngPusAZt2grGllXuFkPkIIEdrqQXAXgjzGtRlvr9lT6pwzPVwQLz9RNvna3-RZhWGWNSK0zKXzfHkhQyDc9az8sEPsjD44ulaM4Kldq5Ot2oTAVqjWPUQQ7G7FmdUJiIjpZFQGvoqvJ3q_kyKPG7ThgtO_qwjiP598hA7zINL3ypB-IkmIqNhg0xavFqrDkA4-2TR8dlYek7xb8_fJ9qvVQt_e4h20e3cWZ-5H395vjmgV9fLcx-JpSf_aX4YU4QL5KUHLCHNJUtqEXy-8EaXuA-Sf5b9nswrJG1PavEbJzNeyIZi_Tj5_nHFuiPHUKNu4FwH4Vt0DcKGkSGX5LWRRxhBF_vNe8qmtxQvwy4-Dyly5bQiFJ7CLIqWp9ABWooVkT-aNM7ERFr8TBii5sTFpGqDm_--6rF9YxlQTEmAES2MoDtTEEwkCzQjw9FXTpqozGFjfCmtQ=w1404-h1053-no?authuser=0[/img] The red / white wires are for the bulb.