Whirlpool ET19RMXGW02 fridge leaking water to inside
Visiting Mom, trying to diagnose this water leak. The vegetable bin had about 4 inches of water, but the leak occurs inside the main fridge cabinet at the component in the picture. Needing some diagnostic help: the icemaker appears to be working normally. The drip pan behind the bottom rear panel in back is dry and has a layer of dried up sludge.
Need a clue for the clueless: what's my next step? Thanks!
It's not the icemaker. It's a clog in the condensate drain system.
The evap coil is in the freezer. There is a plastic cover over it. Behind that is the actual cold coil. At the bottom is a drip tray with what looks like a funnel in the middle. When the fridge defrosts the water runs down thru the funnel into a drain hose and then discharges into the drain pan under the fridge. Sears Parts Direct - exploded views
Your picture looks familiar. Many of these fridges have what looks like a funnel in the fridge directly under the evap coil. This is where the water drains from the freezer. It's here because it won't freeze. This is the easy system to clean. That little box should be removable. If you can't get it off you can squirt fairly hot water and bleach down it. That will flush the line out. Do it several times.
Water drips down from the freezer into that piece. Then drains out the back thru a hose.
PJMax, thanks for your response, and sorry i didn't reply sooner- i'm juggling between family visits and vacation visits to the local venues.
I'm not seeing that collection cup in your picture. I removed the cover on the interior fridge ceiling (the one in my picture); it has a styrofoam liner and is stained as if it carried water at one time. Is it possible water is meant to run down the back of the fridge, and pool on the ledge in the bottom? There is a plastic raised something (photo) on that ledge, situated above the drain pan, so i wonder if that's the outlet.
I've got a [url=https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-2-1-cu-ft-Over-the-Range-Microwave-with-Sensor-Cooking-Fingerprint-Resistant-Stainless-Steel/1000293843]Whirlpool WMH53521H206 Oven[/url]. Two days ago, the underside lamp stopped working. I'm not aware of any electrical shorts that may have occurred. The bulb isn't bad. This is how I diagnosed it:
At first, I thought it was simply the bulb going out. I swapped the bulb with a new bulb and nothing. I then unplugged the oven, pulled the underbody off, disconnected the motor, detached the socket and ran my Sperry multimeter across the spade connectors: 120 volts AC on the nose. I tried another bulb, again: nothing again. I noticed that if I tap the "light bulb" icon on the display panel the voltage doesn't change (I assumed it would so as to deliver different intensities). Something "smart" seems broken.
I then detached the socket itself, reattached the bulb and took it downstairs where I have a variable DC power supply. I hooked the whole thing up to the power supply and the light worked. So, it's not the bulb nor the housing.
I'm starting to think the main board has gone bad. And, of course, I'm about 5 months outside of my limited warranty. The curious thing is this: why am I getting 120 volts across the spade connectors? It feels like an open circuit voltage, but I'm not sure; in the past when I've experienced situations like this, I notice steady voltages across resistors indicating no current, not the connectors themselves. Any idea what might be going on? Any tests I can run before forking out the money for a new main board?
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z-QdGsopk37TikUMA2myRWLoR6I62njnGfIOwZSgD0XHYI1eCOGYcK82QtcmsqbZxnROlTbZOw2Hl6h-Cuc8-CgihPbD4migi7wlm3euTTCfkK6vO4nqazF31Oub2C4xfwMMj3dDx882mwUoq7QT3s5JSY7RDUB3Q2jkFbiutq6lTB2Adc3n8IyY0J_bvRNWnkvVCnZuBA543ZFl8ARAOg1yE1D_g69vLBXAmuc0Xyo1rlgDic4rYwxNyMvPWXGV6g_b6-pKeU47OaCFngPusAZt2grGllXuFkPkIIEdrqQXAXgjzGtRlvr9lT6pwzPVwQLz9RNvna3-RZhWGWNSK0zKXzfHkhQyDc9az8sEPsjD44ulaM4Kldq5Ot2oTAVqjWPUQQ7G7FmdUJiIjpZFQGvoqvJ3q_kyKPG7ThgtO_qwjiP598hA7zINL3ypB-IkmIqNhg0xavFqrDkA4-2TR8dlYek7xb8_fJ9qvVQt_e4h20e3cWZ-5H395vjmgV9fLcx-JpSf_aX4YU4QL5KUHLCHNJUtqEXy-8EaXuA-Sf5b9nswrJG1PavEbJzNeyIZi_Tj5_nHFuiPHUKNu4FwH4Vt0DcKGkSGX5LWRRxhBF_vNe8qmtxQvwy4-Dyly5bQiFJ7CLIqWp9ABWooVkT-aNM7ERFr8TBii5sTFpGqDm_--6rF9YxlQTEmAES2MoDtTEEwkCzQjw9FXTpqozGFjfCmtQ=w1404-h1053-no?authuser=0[/img]
The red / white wires are for the bulb.
I have a toaster oven a few years old and I know I should buy a new one, but I still want to try cleaning it inside. It often shuts off before it's supposed to unless I aim a fan on it and I'm hoping cleaning it will help keep it cool. It drips grease from parts unseen.
I removed dozens of screws including two that needed a star bit. I just left some screws on the inside of the oven on the side where the controls are because the sheet metal gives when I press a screwdriver against that side and I think they probably aren't holding the outer cover on. I think maybe I'm done with the screws and I just have to manipulate it correctly. Do the latches in the photos tell you anything? Toaster ovens are openable, aren't they?
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/609x373/toaster_oven_latches_fbc3aeb0cce12192c15dc4700a825311f752589f.jpg[/img]
04-04-22, 10:11 AM
