Microwave oven, burning wire smell, found burning wire- can I easily fix?
Bought microwave from a friend yesterday for $50, she said its new but has been sitting in storage for long time, had box and packing and even plastic film on display panel. Took it home and works great except for burning plastic/rubbery smell whenever its used. Took top panel off (GE brand- JES1451DN1BB, made in 2010, yeesh that's old, but looks new) just to see if I can see any problem. (I've never de-energized a microwave so I didn't touch anything inside) I saw this:
Could this be the only problem? I see no other issues while looking at everything else with flashlight. And can I touch that area without being shocked to death? Looks like just a loose connection that got hot, it runs great, no noises, just that burnt wire smell. I watched a video about how to de-energize and the guy did it with insulated needle-nose pliers, it don't look too hard if its necessary. If this was a toaster or something I would clean it up and see whats left under that burn area then either solder or replace that connector but I know nothing about microwaves. Any advice is appreciated, thx.
That looks like a poor connection that is heating up. Maybe it was a poor connection from the factory or some corrosion grew while it sat in storage. I would redo that connection with a new, insulated female spade socket.
The device with the burned connection appears to be for thermal overload. It would open its contacts on high temperature in the area. The burned connection is usually a female wire end held in place by friction with the tang on the thermal overload. In the photo, there also appears to be a screw head at this connection. Can you verify? If there was an overcurrent problem, I would expect the wire connection on the opposite side of the thermal overload to also be burned. It appears not. Did anything get spilled on the microwave before/during using?
I thought that was a screw too but just a circle in the plastic. I cleaned it up and the metal looks fine and I reattached it and squeezed it with pliers and it seems like it should work. Would it be a sin if I just used electrical tape and checked it after each use for the first week? Whatever that part is it looks identical to the one mounted to the ceiling of the cooking area, which the burnt wire leads to after passing through that blue thing. No spills. Found an envelope with schematics inside when I opened it.
That is a thermal sensor monitoring the magnatron high heat level.
With that type of damage it needs to be replaced.
That should be a WB20X10003 thermal sensor.
The connector that was burned also needs to be replaced.
And from what I can find, they are not very expensive, cool thx, and thanks for the help of all who replied. Now I just gotta find out if the friend who sold me this knew it had issues or didn't know.
I love this toaster, but one of the three actuators that enables the electrical contact broke from fatigue. Does anyone have any clever fixes for this?
My initial thoughts are to try soldering the piece back into place, or to 3d print a triangular piece with a similar profile that will snap into the slot. Not sure how hot this area gets, but I don't imagine it would be enough to soften PLA - even if it did, the pressure exerted on it is released as soon as the toast cycle begins so it at least wouldn't be squeezed out of shape.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/969x1335/pxl_20220911_014634832_2_exported_1169_1662861095225_efda703ef69b1f6ad9d6fc718673618a8b145c27.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1123x1688/pxl_20220911_014727857_2_exported_1337_1662860944739_6bb9ec9e6e9100a3cd770dc124e660b0ad5b2e18.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1256x822/proheat_2x_e22cacdfffd5c8b7204b4817e6ef6afb588a508c.jpg[/img]
Some Youtube videos recommend unclogging the heater unit (grey) but on mine air flows from the inlet to outlet.
My attention then switched to what appears to be a solenoid valve (center top) as well as the 2 vacuum lines that attach to the top and rear of the pump (top right). If I draw air from the top one something like a piston moves up/down in the white tower. If I draw or inject air into the bottom one I just hear a hissing sound from the small box in the red circle top-right. I thought this might be a relay to enable the pump to run when the vacuum motor is running.
Everything was running fine until (naturally) my sister-in-law needed it back, at which point it stopped spraying.
I'm thinking it's time to upgrade to a 2022 model unless there is an under-$25 fix I can do here.