Broan Range Hood - Outrageous!


  #1  
Old 01-19-23, 07:22 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
Broan Range Hood - Outrageous!

Hey Gang.... I was absolutely stunned on this. I'm hoping someone could help with some advice but first, some detail

Roughly 7 years ago I purchased the Kenmore branded, Broan Model 31130 range hood.




Recently the control board with integrated buttons failed. I can only use power lever 4 which at 650 CF/M sounds like a jet it landing.

No problem. I looked up the part and called the supplier.... then ALL the suppliers... including Broan. After only this length of time, the part is discontinued. It's not in stock anywhere... Well, I found one place that had one they were offering for around $700. No way I'm getting soaked for that and no way I'm throwing away this giant piece of very good stainless steel. All of this floored me.

Here's the item I need.... available, nowhere.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/diy...-control-board
Part number from the manual here:



Here's what I'm thinking... I could go out and get a reasonably priced, 4-button assembly.... like this perhaps?

https://www.airkinghq.ca/part/18041267

I know the overlay button won't fit but I'm prepared to fabricate a piece of stainless sheet to fit into that space where the existing overlay is.... Or possibly get a friend with a 3D printer to make one up. Either way I have that part covered withing my existing skill set.

The thing I don't know is if a button assembly from another unit will work on my hood?
Will I need a separate control board? I don't mind splicing some wires... but no wiring diagram....
Or perhaps there's some generic 4 level switch that might work?

The light button on the current assembly has a 3 illumination setting operated by depressing the button multiple times.

The filter button I don't care about. I don't even know what the "auto off button" does. Never used it.

Understanding tat I can fabricate the front panel.... any suggestions as to an alternate control method would be sincerely appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 01-19-23, 09:11 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 9,460
Received 47 Upvotes on 43 Posts
I feel your pain. I also thought mfgs were required to maintain parts for some period of time, I'm thinking 10 years but I've been out of the repair business quite awhile.
There are many web sites advertising appliance repair parts and this sounds like something they would jump on.
Last, are their any electronic or appliance repair shops in your area that might be willing to look at the board. I have repaired thousands of various items from aircraft landing lights to banking computer systems and if you can find someone like me s/he might see something simple. Example, over half of the computer banking equipment we serviced died due to cold solder joints. Easy to spot with a little guidance. Maybe a picture of that board.
Others will be along.
Bud
 
  #3  
Old 01-19-23, 09:27 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
Thanks Bud. There's physical damage on one of the buttons from repeated pressing.... not to mention that here (in Toronto) nobody seems to want to look at anything for less than a thousand bucks.

I've been to every parts site I could find on this continent with no luck.... I'm open to suggestions. (I'm in Canada but happy to order from anywhere)

I don't want to scrap the hood. To me that would be obscene. I don't see a way to repair what I have. I only see retrofit as an option.
 
  #4  
Old 01-19-23, 09:46 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 9,460
Received 47 Upvotes on 43 Posts
We will see what others can add but I ran a very successful business repairing things that others would or could not. Buttons are often available as parts for other machines. I sources some through Thomas Registers, not sure if they are still around. But component mfgs will often send sample parts to help.
Again, pictures of that board.

Bud
 
  #5  
Old 01-19-23, 09:59 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
I'll pull it apart again and post pictures of the board. Here is the only corporate picture I know of.

It's all fused where the button meets the board.



 
  #6  
Old 01-20-23, 05:23 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 26,328
Received 1,851 Upvotes on 1,657 Posts
A couple times I have had to MacGyver things like your vent hood. This requires a little fabrication to make a new face plate and some basic soldering skills. You will also need to get some momentary contact, single pole switches to replace the bad keypads.

Remove the board so you can identify the wire traces for each button. Usually each button has two sets of traces that run back and forth under the plastic button. Shorting those two together is what sends the button press input to the controller. Solder a wire onto each trace for each button. Attach each pair of wires to a new switch. Make a new, pretty face plate to mount your new switches. The keypad circuit board will not mount back where it was before so you need to insulate it or mount it somehow so it can't touch anything metal inside the hood and short out and you don't want it to make a rattling sound. Be mindful of any components on the board that may generate decent heat so you don't seal off cooling airflow.
 
  #7  
Old 01-20-23, 07:01 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
The faceplate fab is no problem but that level of soldering might be tough for me. Is there not a board/switch assembly that would work with the unit?
 
  #8  
Old 01-20-23, 07:08 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 26,328
Received 1,851 Upvotes on 1,657 Posts
Most control panels like that are proprietary. Made to that manufacturers specs. I'm 99% sure it's not a generic/standardized part that would be easy to swap.

Yes, you can use a different keypad. You need is something with 7 buttons, or fewer if you don't want to have a button for all the available fan speeds. The problem is you will still need to do the investigating and soldering to connect a replacement keypad to the control board.
 
  #9  
Old 01-20-23, 07:13 AM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
Hmmm. My soldering skills with small components have always been somewhat brutal. I assumed another Broan of different design would physically work and Iíd just need to make it fit and look pretty. If thatís not the caseÖ.. hmmm
 
  #10  
Old 01-20-23, 09:28 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 26,328
Received 1,851 Upvotes on 1,657 Posts
Yes, certainly see if you can find that panel used on another of their hoods that is not discontinued. I wouldn't hold much hope but it's worth a try. You can also contact their tech support and see if they can cross reference for a possible substitution. Luckily you've got your manual so you probably also have the model number which will be required for them to help you.
 
  #11  
Old 01-20-23, 09:38 AM
Z
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 5,877
Received 372 Upvotes on 332 Posts
See if there's a Maker Space somewhere around you. Since you have half the project figured out already, I'd bet you could find someone who's better with soldering PCBs to help for either the challenge or a few bucks/loonies.
 
  #12  
Old 01-20-23, 12:50 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 62,546
Received 3,488 Upvotes on 3,131 Posts
Take that apart and post larger pictures. It looks like it uses tactile switches that aren't hard to replace. I can locate the switches for you. A TV shop, radio shop, Ubreak-we fix, etc. could replace the buttons for you.

Extremely doubtful you'll find a usable replacement for that board.
 
  #13  
Old 01-20-23, 02:50 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
@Pjmax - I would never know how to source a switch like that. Iíll pull it apart and get some detailed pics up by tomorrow.

Thank you!

while my soldering stinks. I spoke to a guy at work who repairs boards and said he will help me.

 
  #14  
Old 01-20-23, 02:52 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 62,546
Received 3,488 Upvotes on 3,131 Posts
All I need is to see your board (switches) and I'll tell you what to get.
 
  #15  
Old 01-20-23, 03:48 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
Thank you. Iíll get some good close ups and try to get a ruler in there for scale
 
  #16  
Old 01-21-23, 05:00 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 26,328
Received 1,851 Upvotes on 1,657 Posts
The problem with a tiny tactile switch is the lack of a button. Well, they do have buttons but they can be pretty small. Because the button area of your face plate is what's broken you will be pressing right on the tiny button you buy. Tactile switches are intended to have a separate button over them that you press, like a keyboard. You can use tactile switches but that tiny button will be the thing you see and have to press. Maybe you could make a new face plate and drill holes over the switch locations and stick your finger in the hole to depress the button.

I was thinking larger switches. Then you can use a sheet of plastic or metal for a new face plate and mount your switches right to the face plate. Buttons can be mounted through simple round holes. And, there is a huge selection of switches that will work so you can pick a button style that looks good, is durable and easy to depress.

 
  #17  
Old 01-21-23, 12:37 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
OK....Here we go. You can see it's the button for lowest speed setting 1 that's toast. I would love to find a compatible button to get this fixed. That would certainly be the ideal option. But if not possible, I imagine the auto off button (which I never use) could be removed and placed where the needed fan button is located.












I wonder if it's even worth reaching out to the PCB manufacturer?

https://www.m2selectronics.com/
 
  #18  
Old 01-21-23, 03:24 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 62,546
Received 3,488 Upvotes on 3,131 Posts
Don't bother trying to contact the manufacturer. They're in China and can't help you.
If you mean Broan or Nutone.... they're even worse.

Read this - a switch tutorial.

The switches are all the same size. Same footprint. The actuator length varies.
Measure yours and you'll know what size you need.

Here you go... the perfect kit with plenty of spares.... kit-o-plenty !
 
  #19  
Old 01-21-23, 04:33 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
@Pjmax - Holy cow! That was quick! Geeze! at that price I don't think I can go wrong.... That is if we don't fry the board trying to solder it on..... LoL!

Thanks for this. I'm ordering it now.

One question... The link you provided say 6x6mm. If you look at the pic with the measuring tape it looks more like 10mm. I assume these are a standard switch and this is just because of the way I'm looking at it? Just want to make sure I get the correct ones.

Oh..... These are the same thing, right?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08...G9I0DZD6&psc=1

I'm in Canada so they'll get to me easier
 
  #20  
Old 01-21-23, 04:40 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 62,546
Received 3,488 Upvotes on 3,131 Posts
Those are pretty much the most common sized ones.
You could carefully bend the leads if there was a slight difference.

Your tech friend should have a solder sucker..... solder extractor
Solder extractor video quickee
 
  #21  
Old 01-21-23, 05:01 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
Thanks. He's works on a lot of PCB's in his job so this shouldn't be too tough for him. If I tried this myself it would be a bad scene.

Do these look like the same kind?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08...G9I0DZD6&psc=1




 
  #22  
Old 02-14-23, 05:20 PM
T
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 294
Upvotes: 0
Received 8 Upvotes on 7 Posts
I want to extend my thanks to those who contributed to this thread. It had not occurred to me to repair the board. Your advice saved me huge.

It turned out that that I needed a much larger switch than I thought and it was a bit tough to get. Once I got it however, the repair was very quick. (with assistance). It is now installed and running like new.

One final question if I may. I plan to do some deep cleaning on it this weekend. Undoubtedly the blower will be caked in grease. I've cleaned many a blower in my time but for the actual motor, would it be safe to spray-soak the inside of the motor housing with electrical contact cleaner to dissolve the grease and carry it out? I don't want to scrub and damage the winding

 
Bud9051 voted this post useful.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: