fluorescent starters
#1
08-10-02, 08:59 PM
fluorescent starters
i opened the panel on the shoplight to replace the starters and there was a black box do i open this to replace starters?
#4
08-13-02, 07:54 AM
If you have replaced the lights and it still has not repaired it... the problem IS the black boxes. You may need to replace the ballasts. Check first to make sure that your wiring connections are good.
#5
08-13-02, 08:47 AM
There is a starting circuit in the ballasts that you are looking at. If you are having problems with your fluorescents, like someone said earlier, make sure that the tubes are good. If they are darkened on the ends then it's time to replace them.
If the tubes are ok, the next thing to check is to make sure that all of the wires that go to the fixture ends are terminated in the fixture and that none has come loose. Normally, this condition will show itself by way of one end of one tube being much darker than any of the other ends.
If all of the wires are terminated in the ends and nothing is loose the only other thing to look at is the ballast. Your idea of looking for the starter is on the right track. Most of the time the part of the ballast that goes bad is the starting circuit inside of the ballast. If this is a 4 foot light purchase a new ballast and connect color to color ie, blue to blue it doesn't matter which blue to which blue and red to red, again doesn't matter which to which as long as you connect a red to a red and the same goes for the yellows. Then connect the neutral or white to white and the black from the ballast to the hot. If this is an 8 light then you will need to pay careful attention to which wire goes where as the colors must be matched exactly ie, this red goes to this red and this blue to this blue.
For those that don't realize it, Rapid start ballasts do, in fact, have a starting circuit built into the ballast, this is why you can use the little testers on the tube ends to make sure that none of the connections are bad. If memory serves me right the voltage is about 4 volts for the starting circuit.
If the tubes are ok, the next thing to check is to make sure that all of the wires that go to the fixture ends are terminated in the fixture and that none has come loose. Normally, this condition will show itself by way of one end of one tube being much darker than any of the other ends.
If all of the wires are terminated in the ends and nothing is loose the only other thing to look at is the ballast. Your idea of looking for the starter is on the right track. Most of the time the part of the ballast that goes bad is the starting circuit inside of the ballast. If this is a 4 foot light purchase a new ballast and connect color to color ie, blue to blue it doesn't matter which blue to which blue and red to red, again doesn't matter which to which as long as you connect a red to a red and the same goes for the yellows. Then connect the neutral or white to white and the black from the ballast to the hot. If this is an 8 light then you will need to pay careful attention to which wire goes where as the colors must be matched exactly ie, this red goes to this red and this blue to this blue.
For those that don't realize it, Rapid start ballasts do, in fact, have a starting circuit built into the ballast, this is why you can use the little testers on the tube ends to make sure that none of the connections are bad. If memory serves me right the voltage is about 4 volts for the starting circuit.
#6
08-13-02, 03:17 PM
A starter is used in non pre-heated flourescents. Modern flourescents no longer use starters, this is what gives them the benefit of instant-on incandescents in an unheated garage. Of course, the "penalty" is that they are always "hot" and consume energy.
If it's not the bulbs, it's the ballast.
If it's not the bulbs, it's the ballast.
