running Receptacles in an unfinished basement

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  #1  
Old 08-31-00, 11:22 AM
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I'm wiring the receptacles around the perimeter of my new unfinished basement. I am having an electrician tie the wires into my circut box, but I'm trying to save money and run the rec. myself. I'm using 14ga.(Romex) wire with a bare copper ground like the electricians used upstairs. I am starting at hte box and then running to the closest box. My questions is what do I do from there? How do I go to the second Rec. then the third, fourth etc..? Also when I reach the last recepticle ( there are 10 Total) Do I need to run another Line of Romex from the last rec. back to the breaker box? Please help.
 
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  #2  
Old 08-31-00, 02:01 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Hurten:
I'm wiring the receptacles around the perimeter of my new unfinished basement. I am having an electrician tie the wires into my circut box, but I'm trying to save money and run the rec. myself. I'm using 14ga.(Romex) wire with a bare copper ground like the electricians used upstairs. I am starting at hte box and then running to the closest box. My questions is what do I do from there? How do I go to the second Rec. then the third, fourth etc..? Also when I reach the last recepticle ( there are 10 Total) Do I need to run another Line of Romex from the last rec. back to the breaker box? Please help. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hurten,
Do yourself a favor right off the bat and use 12/2-with-ground with a 20 amp breaker for your 10-outlet basement circuit, instead of the 14/2 with 15 amp breaker. The cost difference is zip, and you may need the extra service for power tools, equipment, etc. in a basement.
If you're running it through wall studs, drill 1/2" holes in the center of the studs. Set the boxes out from the studs for a 1/2" wall thickness, in case you ever decide to sheetrock, if that's where you're running it.
Set boxes first.
Run the wire from box to box (beginning with the last one)with about 8-9" on each end sticking into/out of each box to give you plenty of length to hookup the 3-prong receptacles. Leave 2-3 feet at the panel for the electrician to work with there.
After you've run the wire, slice about 6" of the cover sheathing off the Romex (do NOT cut into wire insulation), and strip about 5/8" off the ends of the black and white wires.
Hook the black (hot) wires to the brass screws on the receptacles, the white (neutral) to the silver screws, and the bare ground to the green screws. If you're using metal boxes, wirenut a 6" pigtail to the bare wire and wire it to the green screw on the box, also. Make sure that all screws are tight. I put the receptacles in with the ground down, but it really doesn't matter.
Push the wire and receptacles back into the boxes, making sure that the screws aren't touching any ground wire or the sides of metal boxes, and install the cover plates.
Should be ready to go for the electrician to pop your breaker in. Easy. If you have any questions, just come back in here and ask. I'm not an electrician, but there are a number of pros in here that can help you. Good luck!
 
  #3  
Old 08-31-00, 02:13 PM
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I agree. Use 12 gauge wire instead of 14.

No, you don't need to go anywhere from the last box.

You don't say whether you're going to put up studs or not. If not, be sure you learn appropriate ways of routing the wire so it's protected and secured -- I'm not sure how you'll do this without studs and I don't know what you're mounting the boxes to.

If you are using studs, I'd drill 5/8" or 3/4" holes rather than 1/2" -- easier to pull the wire through without damage.

You'll need to pigtail the ground wires whatever kind of boxes you have, since you're not allowed to put two wires under the one outlet screw. I'd get those green wire nuts with the hole in the end -- they're easy to use. Twist the two bare wires together, cut one a few inches short, feed the longer wire through the hole on the end of the wire nut, and twist it on.

And for heavens sakes, don't do this work based on what you learn in this forum. It's not enough. Go get a book with pictures! And read the "Wiring Simplified" book (green paperback available at Home Depot) which is a summary of codes.

I'd also use a GFCI outlet as the first outlet.
 
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Old 08-31-00, 02:41 PM
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Hi Hurten,

It seems Old Guy and Nelson misread or missed the word perimeter. We don't have basements here in Florida but I grew up in Michigan where they do exist. I've never seen one that is not poured concrete or block.
So, assuming that is your situation, you will need to run all conduit if you want to run it on the wall itself.
Now, you can run in on the ceiling ,then at the point where you want to come down the wall you will stub up a piece of conduit. If you do it this way you can use romax. There are special conduit/to romax connectors that you would use as well as you feed into the conduit. I would recomend using 3/4 conduit as you will have two wires for each box except the last. You can also eliminate this facet by using a JB at the end of then conduit and running your romax from box to box at the ceiling level and then #12 in the conduit. You will counter a problem with these JBs when you want to cover your ceiling as they all must remain accessible. If you plan on having an accessible ceiling grid then this is not a problem either.
This should give you some options which you won't find in any book.
If you do it all in conduit you would use single wire, #12 THW, or THHN
 
  #5  
Old 09-01-00, 08:41 PM
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think about running to complete seperate circuits putting 5 outlets on each circuit that way if you should have a problem of any sort you would still have some outlets that are hot i would put every other outlet on the same circuit,odds are with 10 outlets on one circuit it will get overloaded you can only put 80 per cent of load on it 14 guage wire and 15 amp breaker can only carry 12 amps not 15 same fo a 20 amp circuit only 80 per of the 20 amps another thing if you finish the basement you have to put in GFI
 
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