baseboard thermostat

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Old 10-22-02, 11:17 AM
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rtrsj86
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Unhappy baseboard thermostat

I am replacing a baseboard heater, the new baseboard- thermostat has 2 - reds and 2 -blacks. The wireing from the wall has 2 - whites and 2 - blacks with the bare copper twisted together. I dont understand how to wire the new thermostat to the original wires.
 
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Old 10-22-02, 11:54 AM
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Are the thermosat leads indentified as "Line" and "Load".?----Do you have the instructions from the thermostat package?----Check the thermosat with a ohmmeter/continuity tester with the thermosat set at the highest temperature setting.(closed) to determine which wire is "made" to another wire with the thermostat "calling" for heat. At the outlet box test the wires for 220 volts to determine which Black/White cable-pair is Line voltage.----Good Luck!!
 
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Old 10-23-02, 06:24 AM
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rtrsj86
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The thermostat is a "Fahrenheat brand Model FTA2A Double Pole Thermostat with "OFF" Position" Rated 22 amps @120-240 Volts, and the diagram on the back only shows: L1 Red and L2 Red these both show to a Black and ground. What happens to the white or is this to be the ground? This diagram has me lost. It is a very poor diagram for somebody to try to wire.
 
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Old 10-23-02, 07:24 AM
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texsparky
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Is this heater 120 volts or 240 volts ?Where does the extra set of wires in the wall go to ? Is there a ground connection on the thermostat or heater ?
 
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Old 10-23-02, 07:33 AM
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rtrsj86
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This heater is running off of a 20 Amp dual breaker in the panel. I think it is 120 . When I took off the old , very old heater it used both sets of wires coming in. The wire coming in is 12/3.
 
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Old 10-23-02, 08:05 AM
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texsparky
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You need to determine what the voltage is at the wall as well as what voltage the new heater is.This is something that you can't guess at.
If the wire has 1-black, 1- white,and 1-bare ground, it is 12-2 with ground.If the wire has 1-black, 1-red, 1-white, 1-bare ground, it is 12-3 with ground.

Did you figure out where the extra set of wires at the wall goes?
 
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Old 10-23-02, 08:53 AM
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The quality of most instructional information is inferior.-----I'll guess "L1" (Red lead) and "L2" (Red lead) are the Line-leads that connect to the cable-pair that supplies power to the outlet box. A continuity test is in order to proceed beyond a "guess". This can be accomplished with an in-expensive multi-tester. Next, you will have to determine which cable-pair in the outlet box is the power supply-it may be A 220-volt circuit-a "dual-breaker" suggest a 220-volt circuit. I suggest you equipt yourself with an in-expensive multi-tester before proceeding any further.---Good Luck!!!
 
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