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Halogen/Incandescent Bulb

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01-10-03, 06:04 PM

thimblyjina

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Halogen/Incandescent Bulb

I have a large curio cabinet that is lit inside with a 50 wt halogen reflective floodlight. This burned out. I replaced it with a 50 wt incandescent bulb. Is this safe? Thanks/Jina

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01-11-03, 07:48 AM

fatkid66

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no problem there, only difference will be the light output of the halogen will be brighter

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Electrical - AC & DC
I suspect I know the answer but I'll ask any way...

K

KCFilley on Jan 10, 2003

Hi, Thanks for reading this post. I have this new house with many electrical shortcuts. I believe his work was safe but apparently the electrician took as many shortcuts to save costs as he could. I'm going to attempt to work out each problem or disliked electrical feature as I can. Here is one of the problems. The main powder room has a ceiling fixture and over-the mirror light. The electrician wired them both to one switch with one 12/2 wire. I would really like to be able to turn each light on separately and running a new line through this part of the attic and feeding a line through the wall will be next to impossible. Am I stuck with one switch for two lights or do you have any thoughts? Do I need to cut out the wall (12') and ceiling? Thanks so much. KCRead More
Electrical - AC & DC
220 on a regular outlet?

E

eddiegl on Jan 10, 2003

Thanks for your time in advance. Heres my dilema, I have purchased an indoor light for growing tomatoes. My outlets are the normal 110v. However the wattage rating goes down by half if I hook the ballast up to 220v. Sounds great. When I opened the cover I was expecting to re wire some wires as I have done on my table saw, and rewire the outlet by converting the common to a "hot". No such luck it appears that all you have to do is remove a lead that is clearly labeled 110v and chose from 208v or 220v. Let me try to describe the wirring diagram on the device so that you might understand my question. Please try to picture my words I do not know any of these terms. I will describe them as they appear to me, a layman. The diagram that is on the "constant wattage transformer" is as follows; there is a "ladder" with 220v, 208v, 110v, and COM in decending order. the left side of the "ladder" is open, I believe to show in schematic terms that these leads are coming from the source. On the right side of the "ladder" the rungs are connected by wavey lines (half u's with openings facing left). In the middle of the 120v and COM rung there is a capital T laying with the top towards the right. Another T laying in the opposite direction with the letters CAP underneath it. The latter T has half u's with the opennings facing right, they asend and eventually branches into A1 at the top and only "rung" on that "ladder" A1 goes into the ballast. I might also point out that there is a wire labeled CAP, and all of the wires are white. My question is this, I hope you could picture the diagram, If I connect 110v to the common side of the outlet in order to get 220v what happens to the common? Am I erring in thinking that the wire labeled COM is abreviation for common? Finaly will that work!?Read More

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