DoItYourself.com Community Forums > Electrical, AC & DC. Electronic Equipment and Computers > Electrical - AC & DC

electrical sockets

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

02-28-03, 10:13 AM

jcall_31f

Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

electrical sockets

my electrical sockets(3) and a light socket are not working. i tested them with a new elect. tester and they are getting juice but dont work when i plug something in. what can be the problem?

Upvote

02-28-03, 10:21 AM

lestrician

Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

What type of tester are you using? My guess is that they are showing some voltage, but not the voltage they need. Loose wires (especially the neutral) are the probable cause.

Upvote

02-28-03, 11:17 AM

John Nelson

Member

Join Date: Sep 2000

Location: United States

Posts: 17,733

Upvotes: 0

Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post

If you are using a digital multimeter, and if you are getting a reading somewhere between 10 and 100 volts, treat that reading exactly as if it was zero volts. As lestrician said, tell us what test instrument you are using, what it said, and how you conducted the test.

Upvote

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Show Printable Version

Email this Page

Electrical - AC & DC
GFCI Keeps Tripping

M

marennorge on Feb 27, 2003

I have a 20 amp GFCI outlet in the kitchen, which is only used for the toaster oven that is always unplugged except when in actual use. Upstream from this outlet is another outlet (and the only one on this run) that is only used for the coffee maker which is left plugged in all the time. Lately, I have had to re-set the GFCI outlet before the coffee maker will work. What could be causing this -- something in the wiring or the coffee maker? ThanksRead More
Electrical - AC & DC
Thanks (and I'm back for more)

B

BuzzHazzard on Feb 27, 2003

All (especially the regulars): Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice. Over the past few months, I've asked several questions and done a lot of lurking here. We are building a new house, and I set my mind on doing all the wiring myself. Just something I always wanted to do, and I was able to include some automation as well as low voltage (phone, ethernet, whole house audio, video distribution, etc.) By way of background, I have a degree in Electrical Engineering, but as I have told many people over the last several months, an "EE" degree does not an electrician make. I've read three good books cover to cover (Practical Electrical Wiring, Electrical Wiring-Residential, and Wiring a Home: For Pros by Pros), and have received a lot of good information here as well. So to all that have so kindly helped, thank you. It took me about 6 weeks and about 8000 feet of wire, but our 3750 sq. ft. home is now wired and my work is being forever covered with drywall. The rough-in inspection went fine. And I thought building my deck was a lot of work... But as I alluded to in the title, I'm back for more. In my area, the next step is the panel inspection. Because we will be heating/cooling with a geothermal heatpump with a 20 KW emergency backup, will have a subpanel headed out to the pool soon, and will have a dedicated workshop with some pretty robust circuits of it's own, I ended up going with 400 amp service and two parallel 200 amp panels. I am looking for techniques/procedures on how to distribute the loads over the two panels. I have a total of 41 home runs not counting the future pool wiring. Here are some considerations: --The geothermal heatpump requires three circuits by itself: a 50A and 60A for the backup heat and a 60A for normal ops. Better to split these circuits over two panel or keep them together in one? The HVAC guy told me that the worst case would be that all four backup elements are running in which case the 60A normal ops circuit would not be running at all, but I haven't been able to verify that, and he didn't give me a warm fuzzy that he was 100%sure. --I am planning to place the subpanel for the pool (probably 60A??) in the same panel as the geothermal backup heat because the two circuits will never be active at the same time (Pool only in the warm months, and backup heat only in the coldest months) Beyond those thoughts, I haven't seen or read much to help guide me here. i.e. is it better to fill up one panel and leave room for expansion in the second, or split the loads evenly amongst the two panels (seems more logical to me)? Any help will be appreciated! Finally, a question on disconnects. The geothermal unit is not hooked up yet. I will probably have my builder's electrician do that because: 1) I am tired. Who's idea was it to wire this place during the coldest February in seven years? 2) My brain is full. Don't know if I have room to learn anymore. Anyway, in the event I change my mind... the heatpump is within line of sight of the main panels, but just barely (gotta tilt your head a bit) and probably not after I eventually finish the basement. Is it generally acceptable to use those devices that install around a breaker that allow that breaker to be padlocked open as the disconnect? The HVAC contractor says there are disconnect switches INSIDE the unit. I haven't looked real close but only saw 4 fuses. I guess my question then is: What constitutes a disconnect for this appliance with it's three circuits? Thanks again for the past advice. Rob P.S. I've decided you guys are underpaid...Read More

Ask a Question